Rob Ashley
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Everything posted by Rob Ashley
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Like most who have already posted I really found this difficult to answer. Having to chose from numerous 1/7th to 1/4 scale WW1 and WW2 scouts, fighters and bombers, to many sports models (although never owned a Wot 4) and even a couple of gliders I think my favourite model to fly in any weather, aerobatically or just circuits has to be a scaled up Peter Miller Tequila Sunrise. Flies beautifully and will pretty much do anything you ask of it - except make a brew.
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Coming along at great speed Peter.
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Yes Peter she certainly is different, but what a model, very unique shape. Looking forward to seeing the plans.
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Wow, talk about something a bit different Peter! Really interested to see this develop.
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Chaps, thanks for all of your advice - I am most grateful. Nigel - I will stick the 1450kv jobs in and see what readings I get. Looking at the motor specs they are rated to 655W on 4S, so with the right prop I think I can get a useful 400ish W per motor which should give enough performance without stressing the setup too much. Tim - Great to hear from you again. I do remember you changing your motors come to think of it and with your flight test data with similar weights gives me more confidence in mine. Incidentally I have 1 battery per motor in each nacelle so I'm hoping power to endurance will be a good balance. I can see me ending up with a whole raft of elec props to get the best balance. I like the idea of 3 bladers though. Peter - I'm with you at the moment. I know what I am getting with IC and don't with elec despite many calculations and research. I feel your pain with the lugging of kit to the flying site, we are lucky at our club being able to park directly at the site. I see your Ohmen is due to be published next month too - honestly, you put the rest of us to shame...
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Peter - I'm sure your weight calcs will be spot on! I reckoned my GTC would be 7lb and current weight ready to fly is 6.5lb. Nigel - thanks very much for that very useful info. I may well send a PM to David for his advice too. I have been using a 3S 3000mAh battery throughout and had intended to try these motors on with a 4S battery - alas my 4S batteries arrived with different connectors so I need to do some soldering before a go any further along that avenue. After I posted my results the other day I did look at the figures again and considered that I would only get near 430W with a 4S after re-reading the motor literature which states 2-4S. Typically, I have built the battery boxes and hatches to suit the 3S batteries I was intending to use. The 1450kv motors are due to arrive in a day or 2 so I might fit those and look at the results from there - my initial thoughts were physical size of the motor is the same as what is currently fitted so I don't need to start carving away at the model to make them fit. I was also thinking that with a 9x6 prop and higher rpm I may get closer to the output of a 0.25-0.30 IC. Failing that I guess I'm looking at a little surgery to shoehorn a 4S into each nacelle. I'm quite interested to see the results of the higher kv motors - I'll be back soon with info.
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In the absence of any replies I went ahead and ordered another set of motors that have a quoted output of over 600W, 1450kv and 220g more thrust plus some manufacturers recommended props. Due to arrive in a couple of days so I guess I'll wait and see the results from those.
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I'm with the engine doc here - we have an MPV and a Volvo XC70, build quality is better in the Volvo, mpg is better and there is more room with seats folded. Wins on all counts really. Rob
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Hmmm, Not being a leccy expert I am a little confused about the results I am getting from my setup. The motors I bought state 430 watts each and gave an appropriate prop and battery which I have fitted (11x5). When I attached my Wattmeter to the setup and ran it in the garden, I was getting 288Watts at full power - quite disappointing really. I put a larger diameter prop on (12x7) and retested it and found an initial peak of 395 - 405 Watts on as the motor reaches max rpm. The Watts then fall to around 340ish - so still not really much better. Am I doing anything wrong or do I need to buy slightly bigger motors? Any help would be really appreciated. Rob
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Peter - perhaps, but your models fly well though don't they. I need to clean it with meths to get rid of the blue smudges left by the iron, but she's getting there.
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Some more work this afternoon and I seem to have broken the back of the covering
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Wow - Thanks Peter I'll take the compliment especially from you.
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I started covering with Easycoat but the yellow was just too transparent and I wanted something a little more opaque. So after completing the tail in Easy coat I switched to Oracover. More expensive but it seems to work quite well and doesn't come apart like Easycoat - such as leaving colour stains on the wood.
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OK, so, I finally get around to doing some more covering. I found cutting the blue trim around the yellow under the nacelles a little difficult but it looks ok.
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Hi Peter, Nice video there - and great first flight. I have one of these still in the box and read that the supplied spinner won't take IC engines - I think you have proved otherwise. I was considering electric but as I have a 120 fs spare and seeing yours fly I think I will stick to IC.... Thanks Rob
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Right then, after some sanding, more sanding and a little more sanding she is ready for covering. Not much to report only having completed the horizontal stabiliser but here it is: I think the picture is really for my motivation, but it now feels more like the home stretch and the jobs list is definitely getting smaller..
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Who wants a Warbird Replics Hurricane?
Rob Ashley replied to David Davis's topic in Scale and Semi-Scale kits
Looks good Mike! Seems to be coming together very nicely. Jon - you said you added 1/4in under the TE to change from a -ve to +ve incidence. Do you mean you lowered the TE by 1/4 in therefore raising the LE to make a +ve angle? Best, Rob -
Oh gotcha. Thanks for the info Peter. Hmm decisions decisions.
