maxa47

Mr Tin, yes I'm sure it will. Use a small (light) 3s lipo. It won't prop hang but I'm sure you can manage without that. Regards Mike.

Hi Mr Tin, I think the stik like model is a Scorpio ThreeDee. I have an identical model. It has aileron servos under each wing close to the fuselage. The website is Scorpio.it. Mine has an EMP 28/30-12 1000kv if this helps. Regards Mike.

My two penny worth. I grew up in the days when glow plugs needed 2v and we used wet cells, ex govmt if you could find them. I still use 2v but with modern jelly electrolyte cells. Usually Cyclon 2v 2.5Ah D cells. I can't say my engines start more easily than using 1.2v, nor do I burn out lots of plugs but I would suggest that the higher temperature will burn off excess fuel better if I flood an engine. I still carry a glostick in my pocket for flight line engine stalls. I have made servo driven switches but prefer the ease of adjustment of an electronic gizmo. I use one from a company that specialises in bits for robots because it uses a 10 amp relay. If I was as clever as you guys I could post a link to it here but Google ActiveRobots and you will find it. The call it ServoRelay XL. It is about 20 quid but well made. OK. OK 20 quid. You can buy several new servos and micro switches for that. Regarding driving an LED, I do it slightly differently and use a tiny postage stamp size board costing 80p from China via Ebay which takes 2v in and gives out 5v. The circuit uses an oscillator driving a ringing inductor the peaks from which are rectified and smoothed to give the boosted voltage. How can they make these things for the money? Trawl EBay if you want one. I cannot say if it will work with 1.2v though but could try it anyone was interested. Also I don't see any point in a separate switch to override or isolate the system. If your engine is set up properly it will start easily at idle settings. I love this forum stuff, you pick up all sorts of different ways of doing things so thanks to all the people I've cribbed from. Mike.

Tygon petrol pipe seems very stiff to use inside a tank to the clunk. For glow fuel highly flexible clunk pipe is easily available. Does anyone know of a suitable petrol pipe? Mike.

The Gas Board have lost a great jacket. Thanks Joe for some wonderful memories. Mike.

Hi, my first one flew perfectly on a Webra 61 two stroke so I am sure a 20 cc petrol would be fine. Remember to add plenty of lightness as Colin Chapman would have said! Pay particular attention to weight at the tail end. I still have two hannibals both with 20cc four strokes and they fly beautifully. Have fun Mike.

Hi,at the risk of making a complete fool of myself, have you considered a separate rx in each wing? Unless you are on some exotic system, rxs are 20 quid or so and then feed the power through a Deans or similar using some thicker wire. One simple robust connector for each wing. And before you get picky about the current carrying capability of your chosen connector, remember the horrid little plug and socket on the end of your rx connecting to the battery. Fine for the microamps of the pulse but for say ten digital servos.? I know we've all got away with it but it's not good practise. Why are Powerbox systems so expensive? Is there not a market for a simple passive bus system with a high quality wiping contact switch feeding the battery to the servos avoiding the rx? It would mean changing the battery pack connector for something meatier but again Deans would do. Light blue touch paper and stand well back. Cheers Mike.