Karl West

I too have the Model Engineer magazine when I log into my PocketMags library. I also see it in the email advising me of the new RCME issue. Now I am not averse to a bit of Model Engineering and it may be a nice "diversion" ( I too have not downloaded it to my library) but I hope this does get sorted next week, as I want the magazine I subscribe to!

Hi Beth, Just checked the Pocketmags app and page 48 is back! However I still haven't had a reply to my email about access to subscriber content. Should I resend the email? Thanks

BEB, thanks for the reply, I will post there about the subscription problem, my reply to my first post was to add a bit more to my original query. Pete B, likewise, thanks for checking , it seems if I had been able to get to subscriber content I still wouldn't have got the page I needed! I have emailed subs support so hopefully Beth can sort out my subscriber access. I'll wait and see what comes of the missing page 48!!

I have just tried to access the subscriber only content via the website to access the current mag issues. However it appears that the system is not recognising my current subscriber number and is therefore blocking access. I had the same problem when i moved back home from brazil 18 months ago and its getting a bit tiresome having to go through subscription support each time. Hopefully this will resolve the lack of access and i can get to read page 48 🤞

I get my monthly "fix" via the pocketmags app and the June 17 issue is missing page 48 which is slightly annoying as its the first page of an engine article by Brian Winch and was one of the articles I really wanted to read first off. Anyone know where I can go to get a download somewhere else? I am a paid up subscriber so is there a way to get e-copies via the Model Flying web pages? Cheers

Selling my Peter Miller Turbulent as it doesn't get the flying it deserves (but as many know and will attest to, it does fly very well) Like many of us, I don't want to sell, but an impending move abroad and SWMBO deem otherwise!

Jon, Thinking about it, you must be right as the valve seat has to have recessed as well to allow the valve rim to get so damaged. Oh well, time for trade in, will start saving now..........he says!

This is a long shot I know but worth a try here before passing final judgement. I have an old Laser 61 which was down on compression so I thought that I would whip the head off to see what if any problem there was. I know that aftermarket piston rings are available from that popular auction site so I was prepared to order one to try a fix. However, on inspection, it appears the inlet valve has suffered from recession, ie the rim of the valve is so battered as to make the valve non sealing hence the low compression. I have added the photos below to show the valve lipping and how the valve sits 'sunken' in the head. So, does anyone have a spare valve for a Laser 61? Happy to provide beer tokens for part and p&p as required. Failing this I have been in discussions with Jon at Laser ref purchase of a new 70 but thought this venerable old friend deserved one last chance at life. Thanks, K

David, That's positive news that you got it working with a similar version Tx and I will try your solution if it turns out that I cant have ailerons on separate channels (not a major issue, its just how its wired at the moment, + haven't got a spare Y lead around at the mo either.......tho easily fixed!) I will go this route if I get nowhere with the present set up. I'll have a go tonight and report back. Thanks

Pete, Thanks for the reply. I looked at the thread on RCG and it describes setting the model with separate servos for ailerons and flaps whereas I am using flaps via a Y lead. However I will try setting it up as Codimasta describes but substituting the dual flaps for a single lead plugged into GEAR channel. One thing that may hinder this is that going through the available switch allocations menu on the Heli version it doesn't provide the option to allocate the Flt Mode/ 3 Pos switch to a function. 2 Pos, yep, Aux 1, yep and Rocker, yep but nowhere do I get an option to assign/map the 3 Pos switch. Still more investigation required this evening methinks. Also sent an email to HH service department, although not expecting a swift response (if any) on that one! Thanks again. K

Dear All, Hopefully I can get an answer to my query here. I have a venerable DX7 (not DX7s) and I am trying to set up the flaps on my Nijhuis Lysander. Both flaps are working from a Y lead and are in the same orientation (ie the output drives both face the same wingtip) I am running separate servos for the ailerons and have programmed the radio with Flaperons (not sure if this is the right way to go or not) and am using an AR610-X rx. This rx has the normal 4 channels with only GEAR and AUX1 additionals so I want to run the second aileron servo via AUX 1 and the flaps via the GEAR channel. The slightly complicating factor is that the radio I have is the heli version, ie it doesn’t have a 3 position switch on the front top panel marked FLAPS, it has a 3 position switch on the top left marked FLT MODE. When I say heli version I am aware of the way to change between HELI and ACRO within the software menu, it is the hardware switch difference that I am referring to. So my query is, how do I get that FLT MODE 3 position switch to work as a flap switch? Do I have to get a mix programmed in and if so how? I have seen some postings referencing how to do this, but not with a heli version. I would be grateful if anyone has a step by step guide that I (ie an idiot!) can follow to do this. I have seen from some forums that the radio is exactly the same between versions just the switch layout and nomenclature is different, hence this query. I’d like to think that this is the case as outside of this it is my preferred radio (and then at least I wont have to look at buying another radio ) Any and all advice appreciated. Edited By Karl West on 20/04/2016 12:03:41

Thanks for the replies. Given the info above I will look at either going with a 5 cell of AAA 900mAh eneloops OR look at LiFe batteries. The only issue with the LiFe is that, as far as I can see, none of the 2s packs come in at a size comparable to a 5 cell flat AAA configuration, although happy to be proved wrong! I need the slimness to fit into the available space (want to leave the model as is rather than mess with hacking it about etc)