Grahamd

Simplest way ? nip into a haberdaheries (or hobbycraft) and get a dress makers pin wheel (used for marking out patterns onto material. Put wood under plan and trace using wheel (makes small pin holes in plan and wood, but is 100% easy and accurate).

Having insalled the tailplane (nothing exciting there), the next step is to fit the tailplane struts (nice scale touch often omitted in some ARFs). These are easy to install in the already cut holes, however you need to sand down the tonges where they enter the fuz as they are TOO big. Once in due to the tonges being on mylar (hinged) they are easy to install, BUT;- (the pictures speak volumes)  Yes there is a huge great gap where they enter the fuz and where they are fixed to the tailplane, someone didn't take the angles into account when planning/cutting these! Also the manual states use cyno to glue them to the surfaces of the tailplane and fuz!!!! I've used some tape and used canopy adhesive as it dries clear and will fill the void (lucky they are not funtioning).   also installed the supplied tailwheel   Now this really does naff me off  OK Blackhorse if politics is your game and you don't want to upset anyone then don't fit the swastikas on the tail, but come on, at least supply them in the box ? This spoils a scale subject before it even gets finished. Now I shall have to either paint them on or find some alternatives.   

And to check the cowl fits  The more I look at this model, the more I like it (I guess it makes the grief some of it has been, all worth while)   

Posted by Stephen Grigg on 10/09/2010 23:31:49: Thats  some motor you have there Grahamd.I cant believe theyve supplied the wrong wheels,Im watching with great interest,but have ordered a seagull Nemesis in the meantime. Coward... Nothing like a challenge, and in stages this has been.  My delrin rods arrived from fantastic plastic (an ebay company) I buy the assorted pack 8 asst rods for £6, good value, and even something as big as the Stuka only used one 10mm rod. From firewall to prop pusher is 150mm, so as motor is 78, I cut the rods to 75 (allows me to sand them down). After cutting and sanding to make sure they are all the same, I used my pillar drill to push a 4mm drill from one end to the other (had to go from both ends, but its no issue if they aren't 100%, the Delrin is just a spacer). By using both threaded rod and Delrin the assembly is locked solid. Having drilled the firewall already and epoxied the 4mm captive nuts in place, I cut my 4mm threaded rod to length and add an extra loc-nut to the end of the threaded rod, behind the firewall (belt and braces). Then slip on the Delrin rods, slide on the motor, some washers, nuts and another loc-nut (not yet fitted), and voila. A quick check of the supplied spinner and another check for 150mm  

Posted by sparks59 on 06/09/2010 20:02:33:  Neat soldering on the servo leads, a far better method than servo extensions ( I had an incident recently due to an extension pulling apart - my own fault for not securing it correctly) That UC does look neat when its all together though Graham. Pity it's a pita to hook up and shame about the wheels, bolt restriction though sparks   Thanks, I think all those servo connectors are just accidents waiting to happen.  Well the best thing I did was change the wheels for 1/4 small diameter ones (Dubro low-bounce), everything now fits, mind you I've had enough dry runs....   The spats and skirts do add something to the model   And my chosen motor  Mounting the motor will (if the bits arrive) be this weekends job. for info, its a 6364 230KV 55A, with a Hobbywing Platinum 100Amp esc     

Posted by Phil B on 06/09/2010 19:24:00: Graham want to sell the old wheels (pm if you do) Yours if you want them, just pm me your address  Graham

After much frustration, I think I've found another problem with the undercart..... Having done one assembly on one wing, I found the wheel was stiff, and couldn't understand why. So tonight I started on the second wing and undercart assembly, this one was worse than the other and had me bending bits all over the place, otherwise the supplied axle would not fit between the two arms.... This time I installed the wheel (minus the spats), and bingo, major headache!!!! the wheel is 3.5" diameter, the distance from axle to the top of the olio wheel holder is 1 5/8" so how do they expect a 3.5" wheel to fit!!!! When they make the olios they screw the wheel arch/holder to the olio with a bolt, and that bolt was not taken into account when someone designed the size of wheel required, no bolt and loads of room, but you need the bolt (factory fitted).... So tonight I've had to order a pair of Dubro 3.25" wheels.

Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 06/09/2010 09:06:45: What are the aerodynamic controls on this model, out of interest? I think the original Stuka had separate dive brakes as well as flaps.   I'm not sure if I'm seeing flap, brake or aileron in your detail pictures.   Thanks. No brakes (not even YT include them), just split flaps ala full size

Well without doubt installing the undercart (mains) has got to be amongst the top list of "jobs I hated" on this model  > My advice to anyone following, is assemble them using clamps and check/bend/adjust everything till it fits dead on, coz wants you install it in the wing, and then add the spat, jeeze does it all go down hill fast if you don't. Just as well the spats are GF, had they been abs they would have split many times over. The two swinging arms have to be spot on, otherwise you cannot slide in the axle, also the wheels need to be drilled out to fit, and being nylon hubs, thats fun in its self. At the same time you have to push down on the olios whilst holding the side clamps in place, whilst pushing the axle into the holes, whilst holding the spat down and out of the way, and whilst slipping on the wheel collets  :banghead: Just to get to this stage you need to try and slip the spat over the olio and side arms, and that will only go one way..... total time to install ONE wheel and spat ? 4 hours (I even had to walk out of the workshop (spare bedroom) for a while to cool down!!!) ARGH got another one left to do.....

1. Mainly Models2. Rcworld.co.uk3.Seagull Ultimate 4. Horizon Hobbies

I've installed the flap servos (two in each wing - JR591s) Now unlike a lot of people, I'm sorry but I aint into extension leads, even using them lead fastners, I've always cut, soldered and extended my servo leads, and NEVER had one fail. I cut and add the length I need, then solder them, and sleeve them indivdually   Finally I add another bigger bit of heatshrink over the top of the three Incidently no plastic horns in this kit

I've now installed the 4 flap servos in the wing  Not tooooo happy with the cockpit (I will have to open this up and do some playing), although they have made some effort   

Thought I'd share some of the components in this kit (ARF) No plastic horns, only ally A nice scale spinner complete with ally backplate I love this tailwheel, not only steerable (controled within the fuz), but also sprung I like the supplied mains, not only is it sprung, its light and strong, best feature is they have added his brace to stop them bending backwards on landing, hopefully overrkill

Stephen, the wings are two piece (ally tube) with both metal and plastic screws. The stuka has fixed undercart so no problemwith retracts

Spent a few minutes checking the box contents, not bad, the olios are real nice, but the canopy is going to have to come off, it looks a bit cartooney.  The ailerons and flaps are hinged fairly scale ish   Even the servo access panels in the wing, already have the mounting points pre joined   

Posted by Stephen Grigg on 29/08/2010 15:28:26: Whats the price Graham? Got mine just shy £200

Blackhorse (ripmax) suggested the new Stuka model (1.20) would be released early July, then kept delaying, and suddenly a few kits got released, and I was lucky enough to nab one at the nats from Inwoods. I've been looking for a largish warbird that I can electrify and this one fits the bill, as the YT one is a bit heavy, and the GP one looks like a cartoon mockup.   Wingspan: 1920mm (75.6in) Length: 1560mm (61.4in) Weight: 5.5kg (12.13lbs) Servos: 9 Servos (5 x 5kg, 2 x 8kg, 2 x std) IC Engine: .91 - 1.20 size 4-stroke, .91 size 2-stroke Electric Motor: KMS Quantum 4130/07 or 5321/14    Speed Controller  Arrowind 80A SW or Opto required LiPo: 6S to 8S 5500mAh+ Li-Po recommended Heres a few pics from BH  The description talks of electric as an option, but the manual only states Glow or Petrol? Either way its getting one of these stuck in it.     

Someone is selling small sheets on Flea Bay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2x12x24-STYROFOAM-PINK-FOAM-SUBSTITUTE-BLUE-300x600mm-/320575348082?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN

I put my tailwheel in like thus; I cut a piece of bass strip (8x8 mm) to fit between the two last formers, around this I put some scrap ply to form a "U" shape that it sits in (extra strength) on the inside faces of the two formers, then I used 3mm sheeting from the tailplane to the middle of the bass strip (leaving a hole for the tail wheel post). To make this easy I used some 1.6mm balsa sheet, and kept cutting and shaping it till it was a good snug fit, then used it as a template to cut two the same from 3mm sheet. Then used thick CA to form the two sheets onto the formers and joined in the middle of the bass strip.

You can get Blue foam in small sheets off ebay, if you want BIG sheets for some future project then Sheffield Insulations will sell one off HUGE sheets. Unlike Polystyrene its very tough and easy to sand, an weighs next to nothing.

Terry I'll weigh the pack later when I get in the workshop

Plodding on with mine. Instead of a balsa block at the back, I've used blue foam (hollowed), and flared it into the fuz  Made and installed the tailwheel  Installed the wing supports  Installed Rudder and Elevator servos (using snake for rudder and push rod (dual ended) for the elevators, as muggins here forgot to install the coupling rod, doh Spats are installed (as per Marios technique, but using wickes mastik)   Pilot and dash installed     As I'm going electric (largest one todate), I'm going to use A123 cells, so I can mount them as far forward as possible. Nearly died when I tried to source them as individual cells, in the end I got one of these off Flea-Bay  Contains 10 X 3.3Volts cells @ 2.2Amps each  Now I'm in the testing stage with the engine, ESC and batteries, so far I've settled for 6 cells (picture shows 5), and installed a balance lead as my charger (Fusion Palladin) includes a balancer that supports Lifo cells).  Boy does this combination humm. I can run it full bore for almost 10 minutes without anything getting hot (and that includes a test 12.5X8 3-blade Graupner prop (gonna change that for a 14X7 2-blade).  Unfortunately the  watt meter I purchased at Cosford was dead out of the box, but the replacement is in the post so I should soon be able to quote some actual figures. If anyone wants to watch (HEAR) it heres a link to youtube Edited By Grahamd on 15/08/2010 11:59:46

I gather it was a jet  It was just an accident

the outline to trim to is very poorly marked and i suspect car filler paste will be needed. good job they will be painted, hopefully hiding any irregularities shall we call them.  Yep, like my spats, what a load of pooh, no lines on mine except at the very top!!! made cutting them and getting them to mate a nightmare.  In the end I used the tried and tested (well it was many years back when ABS first windled its way into model kits) of CA and balsa dust, with a little baking powder. apply thick CA, fill with balsa dust, then sprinkle on baking powder. FIZZZZZZZ. Easy to sand and fills all manor of holes. 

1/9th is the actual scale