leccyflyer
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Posts posted by leccyflyer
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For transmitter storage and carriage I use one of the lightweight aluminium carrying cases from B&Q - they do a pack of two, one black one blue. The black one will fit a pair of transmitters (DX7 and FF9) in, fully rigged, with aerials in place, with a bit of dense foam packing, cut to shape.You could use the smaller blue one to carry lipos in, if you were not too bothered about the fire risk. My flying pal uses the blue case for his lipos and it's a great improvement on the biscuit tin that he used previously
Those cases used to come in a pack of three for £20, now you get two for £22, but they are pretty good for the job.I've previously used the plastic clamshell tool cases, also available from B&Q, that have a compartmentalised top, into which you can fit a few screwdrivers, allen keys and other simple tools, as well as necessary spares, with a transmitter aeven a couple of batteries inside.For lipo storage and transport I use a couple of sentry firesafes and a genuine LipoSack (not one of the inflammable knock-off ones). The lipos that are not going to the field stay in the larger sentry fire safe at home and the ones that are going to the field are transported in the smaller firesafe and in the lipo sack. In winter I chuck a couple of chemical handwarmers in the containers, to keep the chill off the lipos. I only ever charge at the field, not indoors.
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Every single time. Not that I've managed to get to the field yet this year.That;s one reason for putting the leisure battery on charge as soon as it comes back indoors.
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Posted by Simon B on 29/01/2011 10:38:52:
The bit that says 'Arrests: 0', coupled with the rebel vibe of the images suggest this wasn't done with approval.Posted by Martin Harris on 29/01/2011 11:04:18:...and everything in sharp focus until the shots that could identify the perpetrators.Can you imagine anything more likely to focus "official minds" against first party view flying in particular and model aviation in general than the this sort of irresponsible behaviour.The identity of the pilot - an Austrian who flew to New York just to make that flight in order to "make a point" in an internet argument - is well known, having been widely publicised in the media. There isn't the slightest doubt that the authorities know exactly who he is and in the unlikely event of him trying to fly to the USA again he'd better be ready for some serious probing.
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The flight was not done with the approval of the authorities, broke FAA rules in flying in controlled airspace without permission and potentially set the efforts of those trying their very best to ensure that the hobby is not subject to stringent regulation back by years. Rest assure, that video will be aired in the deliberations as to how many, and how tight, the restrictions to be put on small unmanned aircraft are going to be.The flight was incredibly irresponsible and detrimental to the hobby in general and FPV in particular.
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The Webbit prototype had full sized gear - four S148 servos all shoehorned into the fuselage and a banded on wing. On electrification I replaced that with 2xHS81 for elevator and rudder, but kept the single s148 on the ailerons, via torque rods.I also made the wing a bolt-on wing, but with those torque rods there was little space for a rear wing bolt mounting plate. Putting two servos in the wing would solve that problem, but if sticking with a single central servo you could do as I did and use the plastic wing bolt mounts that are bolted to the side of the fuselage. Just be sure to add a couple of 1/32nd ply doublers to spread the load. That kept the wing on my Webbit for many years, until her final crash.
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That's actually US improv comedian Greg Proops in the first picture. He was Steve's stunt double for a time in the 1990's
That's right isn;t it, Ste?
Edited By leccyflyer on 29/01/2011 17:17:17
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Posted by Danny Fenton on 27/01/2011 09:27:06:Leccy just sits there waiting to chew your arm off lolNo I don'tSounds like a few lessons to be learned here and, as Simon pointed out, making such a change with an IC model with the engine running ght have had a similar effect and every electric model that is live should be thought of as being a tiny step removed from having the engine running.So - prop off when working on a model on the bench. Every time. No exceptions. The only time you need the prop on, with the model on the bench is if you;re balancing the model or, if you;re bonkers enough to run the motor to measure current draw on the bench. At all other times everything can be done with the prop off, much more safely.Major changes to the set-up - model memory, model type etc, should not be made with the model live to the extent that the power to the motor is enabled.If the motor is to be run at all, make sure that it is completly free to turn and cannot foul on anything and stall - so, for instance, don;t try to run a motor in your hand, just for a second, just to check rotation direct. It could be done, if you were bonkers enough, in the days of sp400s, but it's asking for it these days with so much power at the prop.Running the motot on the bench is to be discouraged anyway. Unless your bench is spotless there a very good chance of sucking something into the prop, or blowing something away with the prop wash. Things get even more serious with a ducted fan. A clubmate had a serious hand injury last year when he reached out to feel if the ESC was getting warm and the fan just sucked his hand straight into the fan.
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Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 26/01/2011 14:45:50:The reason I don't use a Dremel for this is that the body of the drill "gets in the way" and stops me making a square cut. Don't you have that problem leccy? Or am I just being obsessive!BEBI did also once have a cutting wheel "explode" on me doing this sort of thing, a piece hit my cheek bone, just missing my eye. If you are going to use a Dremel on piano wire or similar hard materials for heavens sake learn from my lucky escape - use safety goggles, I always do now.Never encountered that first problem BEB - I put the wire in a small table vice and "attack" it from above. can't say that I've put a set square on the finished cut though.I have, however had that second problem, of shattering the very thin cut off wheels - which is more likely of they are not square on to the workpiece - and the advice to wear eye protection is very sound and well timed.
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Posted by fly boy3 on 23/01/2011 18:45:13:Hi all,As I do not own a Dremmel tool, Is there a better way of cutting 8swg piano wire than a hack saw. Is there anything I could fit to an electric drill 'and,would the drill be fast enough anyway. CheersBest advice I could give is to just bite the bullet and get a Dremel-type tool with a cut-off wheel. Aldi or Lidl regulary do cheap versions for about ten quid, complete with attachments, which are more than adequate for the job. It transforms the task of accurately cutting piano wire.For the thinner stuff I use the scissor-action cutting hole on a pair of electrical wire strippers. Insert the thin pianowire through the hole and squeeze. Anything above 18SWG and it's out with the Dremel, with a cut off wheel.Seconds later the job is done.Also handy for squaring off the ends of the toffee allen keys that are supplied with some prop adaptors and the like. The multitool comes in very handy for all sorts of jobs and I wouldn;t be without one - or three.
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I might well do that Dave - it's a good idea. The way that the new kit is put together it might be possible to splice a new front end on the old fuselage, using that jigsaw puzzle keyed joint, and to maintain that as a surviving prototype for old times sake.One for me and one for my boy - though he really doesn't like to fly the Webbit as he finds here to be set up very twitchy and tail heavy for his tastes.They'd both have to be electric though, I don't do any IC these days.
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I don't have a plan BEB - like I said, this one is Peter Kent's prototype - I also have the prototype MAF Mini Flying Machine, still in the fleet, now electric - and had the prototype Searching 400 (now sadly gone) - but no plans for any of them.I'll probably end up getting a kit, a bit nearer the time, just to support the effort.
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Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 22/01/2011 20:37:45:Leccy I don't think you need to splice a new front end on - the front and the tail lookfine - its the bit in the middle that looks a bit - what shall we say? - erm "modified"
BEBThe bit at the front and the bit in the middle have already gone in the bin - they were pretty well trashed, with only the film holding the balsa shards together
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Posted by David Gilder on 21/01/2011 22:10:52:Well just so that everyone knows....After a little coersion---- Lady Sarah (john Thompsons better half!) has agreed to build a webbit (maybe a depron one!!).This bring the current number of people signed up to 25!!Thats a great point at this stage, I'm sure you'll all agree, but we need more to really make it Amazing!!! SO come on.. Tell everyone you know who flies and get them to sign up and build a webbit for the Mass Build!!!Well done upto now though!!Dave
If I splice a new front end on the very first Webbit ever built can I come?
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Posted by Steve W-O on 18/01/2011 17:48:14:Posted by leccyflyer on 18/01/2011 16:23:53:The original prototype Webbit had 1/8th balsa fuselage sides, with wingseat doublers - does the kit really have Liteply sides?When I electrified the prototype I put something around about 300w into her. Mega 22/20-3 and an 8x6 APC-E, AUW was 50oz with 8x1950FAUPs and quite a bit lighter with 3s1p 2500mah lipos.Where did the weights mentioned in the article come from?That's about 1400g.Seems there is a big difference in figures quoted and measured.My Webbit was the prototype, built by Peter Kent many years ago - mid 90's - and that weight, as stated, was with an 8 cell pack of 1950FAUPs,. Quite a bit heavier than the modern lipos. I never actually put the Lipo version on the scales. The model also had a dural undercarriage.It also appears that the kits produced now are a bit different than the original kit, in the materials used.
Edited By leccyflyer on 18/01/2011 18:59:16
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The original prototype Webbit had 1/8th balsa fuselage sides, with wingseat doublers - does the kit really have Liteply sides?When I electrified the prototype I put something around about 300w into her. Mega 22/20-3 and an 8x6 APC-E, AUW was 50oz with 8x1950FAUPs and quite a bit lighter with 3s1p 2500mah lipos.
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Posted by Tony H on 17/01/2011 16:53:16:Hi Guys,I have Overlander Sports lipos which have a charge rate of 2Cmax and a Loongmax which has a charge rate of 5Cmax.Does anyone charge there Lipos at more than 1C and what are there results? is it safe? does it reduce the packs life?TonyMany of my Lipos say 5C on the packaging, but I still charge them at 1C. As they are mostly 4000mah+ then to charge them at 5C would mean 20amp charge rates, which is more than my chargers can accommodate and more than my leisure battery can usefully produce for any period of time.No thanks, I'm perfectly happy charging at 1c, with either two or three packs on the go at a time - one on charge, one ready for flight.
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Life's too short to worry about it. If you have a spare part and can help someone out the that's a good deal for the day.A clubmate of mine neede a few UC saddle clamps to keep flying and the fact that I had some spare meant his flying day wasn't cut short. The next time at the field he brought me a replacement pack, to replace the ones that he'd borrowed, I think that was just about the first time in many occasions of having donated bits to someone that I'd had them replaced. It was a pleasant surprise.Who's counting though?All I ask is that the "travellin' light" brigade recognise that they can sometimes only travel light because not everybody else does.....
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Posted by Martin Harris on 01/01/2011 14:45:09:
The insurance is normally valid from the time your club receives your renewal - however, I'm not certain whether the club itself needs to re-register (with at least 6 renewals) in order for this to apply?My understanding is that each club needs to re-affiliate by returning at least five renewals by 16th January each year. The club is assumed to be affiliated for that two week period and the club committee insurance remains in place during that time.The club acts as agent for members paying their BMFA subs through the club and this also ensures continuity of that relationship.A temporary notice of the club's liability insurance is provided for that 2 week period, which is replaced by the permanent notice of insurance cover on the issuance of the first batch of member's renewal insurance and membership cards. -
Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 01/01/2011 14:21:40:I just thought of something here. I pay my BMFA fees through my club subscription. Now I've paid my subscription in December - I have my new club membership card etc. But I haven't received my actual BMFA card. Am I insured? I don't knowBEBAs soon as you hand your dosh to your club secretary you are insured.The club acts as the BMFA's agent for the transfer of monies to BMFA. If requested you can be issued with a temporary BMFA card by the club secretary/membership secretary, which is valid for two months from the date of issue.That gives sufficient time for the issue of your printed BMFA membership card.The temporary cards come as part of the Re-affiliation pack, which your club will have received at the beginning of December.
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I ordered a spare Seagull cowl yesterday from J.Perkins, via my LHS. The spares are listed on the Perkins website.
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1. Webbit2. Pinto3. Wasp
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Acrylics work great on the GWS foam -definitely would not use Humbrol enamels.Here's my boy's GWS Spitfire, painted with Tamiya acrylics.
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Posted by Erfolg on 24/12/2010 13:20:37:I have not bought the mag. I am not sure that it is on sale in Asda as yet. That is where I pick up my copy.What did interest me though was Tim Hoopers comments on his wife's involvement and was it appropriate. In my opinion anything that moves any articles formulaic approach that is tediously applied of sticking "a" to "b" has to be applauded. All to often all that needs to be changed is the name of the model and supplier. Which is reminiscent of what was called "boiler plate" bid preparation, in the company I worked for. Where wholesale sections of any tender was assembled from pre-prepared paragraphs, where only names and minor details needed to be changed, with perhaps 5% bespoke content. In my opinion anything which brings some originality to any article is almost certainly for the good. Just go for Tim.Yep, I approve of this message - if there's a better writer of a plan build article out there than Tim, who keeps the reader's interest with every paragraph, then I haven't read them.Keep up the good work Hoops and put in as much of the interesting stuff surrounding the model as you can manage. It makes the articles a joy to read.
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Posted by Erfolg on 16/12/2010 21:45:27:.I am not sure which motorway you are referring to. Our route was straightforward, M6/M74 then across to Stirling to Perth, Dundee. Aberdeen. Unfortunately the A9 is chaos at present, the upgrade is much needed though.Aberdeen is fine, it is inland up into the hills where the problems still exist, or did. Our Transit having great difficulty at times.No amount of good will overcomes these problems.Correct.That's my "commute" from the NW of England which I've been doing for at least 25 years now, on a very regular basis and it dramatically improved with the M74 upgrade. Unfortunately the A9 has been a bit problematical for a while, and particularly the past couple of years. It only needs a jack-knifed wagon, or a couple of cars to get stuck and things rapidly spiral out of control there. It makes one reluctant to set off, knowing that there is a problem there just waiting to happen.So 90% of the trip can be fine, but that one bottleneck can wreck the whole journey and, if the alternates get hit as well, as happened last week with the M8 closed, then it is easy to see how the NE can effectively be shut off by road, even when much of the area is passable. If it had been vital, I could have taken the extra few hours that getting into the centre of Edinburgh and crawling through the congestion to get to the Forth Road Bridge, but it just snarls everything up for everyone.The other notable blackspot in the past couple of years is at the Temple of Fiddes, where the wind howling across the open territory there can cause horrendous driving conditions., even when the rest of the A90 is blacktop all the way. These are not single track roads, they are decent, high speed, dual carriageways, but it doesn't take much to close them down, because of the topography and basic set-up, on quite short stretches. Long hill, snow and ice, drifting and normally equipped vehicles = occasional problems, albeit very localised.The AA travel map last week showed everywhere as passable, with a few delays, but two prominent "0mph" bits, that cut the NE off for hours at a time.The airports were not much better - a clubmate who is a Captain with a UK airline took his passengers on an extended tour of Scottish airports, with them each closing in turn, had a couple of landings and take offs, before eventually bringing the passengers back to where they had set off from, five hours earlier.
RBCkits Bristol Beaufighter
in Warbird kits
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Hi Ton, thanks for the link, I will have a go at uploading some pics tomorrow. In answer to your question, the model is built from a plan which was published in 'Scale Models' magazine about 12 years ago, and is still available from RCME plans service. I had a bit of fun moulding the canopies for the cockpit and observers positions. Yes I agree with you about electric power, but I actually like messing about with,dare I say it, 'proper' engines, anyway its nice to live a bit dangerously, don't you think ? I'll try and upload the pics, here's hoping......................Mal.