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Everything posted by leccyflyer

  1. A suitable brushed motor, essentially the motor that is already in the Easy Pigeon is perfect adequate for the task pf carrying such an electric glider to height. Coupled with a 2s1p Lipo and suitable prop it should easily deliver sufficient power to allow climb out to a few hundred feet to search for thermals. It's an Easy Pigeon, not a hotliner.
  2. Toto - nil carborundum - your forecast for tomorrow is excellent.
  3. Not familiar with the Mystic, but the Sig Rascal is a truly beautiful aeroplane.
  4. With all the flooding this year, we've three large ponds in the surrounding fields and they have attracted a tremendous quantity of wildfowl. The daily ritual of up to a hundred geese arriving and departing, quite a few mallard, plus countless gulls of various types and a couple of dozen oystercatchers to join our indigenous population here. The swans have even turned up on these puddles, which though large in area are no more than a foot deep but are obviously providing good eating for these waterfowl.
  5. Aye, Leeds Model Shop are first class - I get my diesel fuel from there and the service is always great. I've found the Zeee Power packs to be very good value for money having tried them when the HRB packs became so popular that the sizes I needed were not available at the time. These 3s1p 3200mah are more than 50g lighter than my G-Power packs. I thought the G-Power packs were superb, They last a long time and don't puff up, but sadly they haven't been readily available for some time in the popular sizes.
  6. Excellent customer service from Amazon UK yesterday. As my current battery reseller of choice with the Zeee power lipos being great value for money, with hassle free next day delivery they are my first port of call. I ordered up a couple of 3s1p 3200mah lipos on Tuesday evening, after some motor tests showed that my 10 year old G=Power packs were just a bit tired and dropping voltage too much. These duly arrived yesterday afternoon and, as always, I opened and checked them. I was horrified to find that one of the two batteries was severely puffed up - far worse than any battery that I'd ever use. Put it on the meter and found one cell badly out of balance. I immediately contacted Amazon and speaking to customer services explained that it would not be safe to put that battery in the returns system and they were very co-operative issuing an immediate refund. We agreed that I'd safely dispose of the damaged battery, the customer services chap said that I need not return the other battery and I just repeated the order this morning, which should be delivered tomorrow. Fingers crossed that this one is all correct, as the many Zeee Power batteries that I've purchased before have been.
  7. Trying to limit the throttle calibration to only output half the power at full throttle is something that is often suggested, but it doesn't work like that - the ESC will need to be calibrated to teach it the limits of the throttle stick travel and they you will have that power available. There's nothing wrong with not using that power on a particular model, which you might happily fly at partial throttle all the time, but that does put more strain on the ESC's component for some types of ESC, where the excess energy is lost as heat. Dick's advice is sound - set the motor kV that you purchase to match the prop size and battery that you are going to use and it all needs to be well matched to be most efficient.
  8. Those generic 540/600 can motors were available with a number of different nominal "ideal" voltages and are sometimes marked on there as 6v, 7.2v or 8.4v. In the relatively early days of electric flight distributors such as Ripmax offered such motors with a prop and prop adaptor, but all too often the recommendation was for running the motor on an old buggy pack or some such and they were simply not working the motor hard enough to get sufficient rpm to the prop. Yes, they really did provide 8.4v motors and expect them to perform on 7 cells. As Tom said, provided the plastic end bell is kept cool enough not to melt they can be run on eight cells for a big improvement in power, albeit in terms of reduced motor longevity. My first electric model was provided with a 7.2v sp400 and the recommended pack was a 6 cell 7.2v AR500 pack, with a 6x4" nylon glow prop. YOu can bet that was soon upgraded. These days it would be better to replace those heavy NiCds with a lipo pack and either 2s1p or 3s1p packs can be suitable, based on the prop chosen. You don't want to be running the simple can motors at too high a current draw, as they are very inefficient, so the higher voltage 3 cell pack can give more power for less heat generated.,
  9. Welcome to the forum Dave - it's good to see you here. I enjoy reading your column and as one of the guys imparting shedly wisdom you have some big boots to fill. Keep up the good work. 😎👍
  10. 540/sp600 are really not that different and the share the same mounting hole spacing - the brushless replacements are the same for both of those.
  11. Yes - the easiest conversion for old gliders powered by Sp600 motors is to drop a brushless inrunner in there, use the same mounting holes and get a useful power upgrade. 4-Max have some suitable drop in replacements, which George will be able to advise on. You'll be able to save some weight by using a smaller, lighter lipo pack compared to the hefty NiCd, but you will still need it to balance, so the motor weight will help with that.
  12. ISTR back in the mists of time that Toto was having an issue whereby his motor was actually running, just off a NiMh receiver pack, without the main flight battery being connected at all. Not sure if it was this thread, or this model, but I believe that is what he described at the time. I could be wring, but it rings a distant bell.
  13. The Lemon receivers have undergone an upgrade and are readily available on eBay - Stuart MacKay at planesamtheman is an excellent supplier of all things Lemon.
  14. That's a great summary GG. I've had a TX16S for a couple of years, but haven't gone beyond switching it on a couple of times. If I were to bite the bullet, would you say I'd be better off immediately updating the software/firmware to Edge TX and Companion and not bothering to dip a toe into OpenTX, of which I have zero experience. My expectation would be to be able to use a collection of DSM, DSM-2, DSMX and Frsky receivers with the multi-protocol module that is fitted.
  15. This wasn't the checker was it? 😉
  16. Nice work Sir - she's a real beauty. 🙂
  17. Few piccies from yesterday's session, courtest of clubmate Steve - thanks Steve. My Balsacraft Bearcat had her maiden flight in 2001, with a brushed buggy motor and 8 cell sub-C nicad pack. Many flights on and the last time that she flew was in 2021, so it was nice to put the Bearcat in the air for a sortie. There's a picture of soe depron Messerschmitt antics - well the wee fatty Me109 and Bob's depron Buchon 109.
  18. Don't really want to get too diverted into the age range of potential new entrants to the hobby and I've always maintained, from years as a membership secretary, that the potential for growth in numbers is firmly in the ranks of the returnees to the hobby - middle aged chaps who find themselves with a bit of time on their hands, possibly a bit more spare cash after their children have left the nest and rekindling a dormant interest from when they were young/ To have any chance of success these days a youngster needs to be starting with a parent also participating in the hobby - that is simple logistics. The shift in what is of interest to a purchaser is what I'm really looking for views on - there were almost no kits on show or for sale at the swap meet, save a few that had been started and not finished. It used to be that there were serried ranks of kit stashes on show and you could often pick up a nice unstarted kit. Some of the prices for kits on ebay are eye-watering and, of course they can access a wider audience, because they are somewhat easier to post than a completed airframe.
  19. In your place I'd maybe start looking at finding a lightly used DX9. There was one on the next table to mine at the swapmeet yesterday - I should have asked what the chap wanted for it, because I could certainly use a spare, but it would have to be an early one, due to the number of legacy receivers that I have got.
  20. Tucano tests this morning show there's nothing intrinsically wrong with either the undercart or the power train, apart from the fact that the 10 year old lipo packs are sagging a little more under full load than I'd ideally like. Still at around 100w/lb which should be okay. I've swapped out the 9x6" prop for a 10x5" prop for a slightly better acceleration on take off for not much additional current draw. Will try that next time out and see if it is just the slightly long grass and boggy strip. My tail draggers are getting off okay though.
  21. I'm just retired - 65 - and I was below the estimated mean age of those there, most of the attendees I'd estimate were in their late 60s through to 80s, with just a small number that I'd guess were younger than myself. The mode would have been around 70-ish. Didn't see a single teenager and just one or two in their twenties.
  22. Spent a couple of enjoyable hours at the Balbedie club swap meet on Saturday morning, which had a decent turnout and in discussing the event afterwards had a couple of observations made which I thought were interesting. Firstly it looks like these days you sometimes struggle to even give stuff away. There were quite a few stalls that had items marked up as free, but not much take up on taking it away. I'm not talking about complete garbage, I'm talking about useful stuff like propellers, wheels, bagged small accessories etc. A flying pal has been taking the same boxes of free things - mostly Micromold accessories from a long gone model shop - all bagged up -plus props and spinners, the the past several swap meets. It's all for free but it doesn't seem to get any less. He did manage to eventually give away an IC powered helicopter, but it hung around for most of the morning and the chap who took it needed to be persuaded. Most striking was one stall where a very nice chap had half his stall dedicated to things which were a nominal pound each to take away, including at least a dozen small four stroke engines - nothing bigger than a .35cu in IIRC. That included an almost new, very clean Enya .25, which was a superb, fairly expensive, engine in it's day - for a pound. I picked it up several times, remembering the good times I'd had with my own Enya .25SS back in the day. I believe that did go in the end, but there were still several left. It was noted that these engines, for which someone might well have saved up for weeks or months to afford, were going for the price of a cheap cuppa. I got lucky selling my glow engines when I gave up on IC years ago, they still sold for very good prices on eBay - now, unless it's a rare collectable, you struggle to get anything for them. I subsequently gave away a few engines that had come to me in used airframes as they had little residual value. That same chap had a pretty well used but nice small Fokker DVII that was marked up at £25 with the engine and gear and eventually went for £15 - he also sold a nice Flair Cub, complete with engine and radio gear, for a tenner. For anyone starting out that was an excellent buy. The price expectations are always a thorny issue at swap meets especially for used airframes and, whilst there were some bargains to be had, if you like that sort of thing, the bits and pieces that I was likely to be interested in were not much in evidence. I don't usually put models up for sale, but I'd bitten the bullet and put a couple of airframes that I'll never get round to flying, on the table. Seeing the other prices I dropped my asking price to a very reasonable £50, which I thought fair for a clean, undamaged 55" span pattern ship and sports racer. I was happy to sell the pattern ship, but wouldn't have been able to, were it not for access to the online manual, through which I was able to show the buyer that the model was perfect for the .54 four stroke that he had just bought, according to the manufacturer. I thought the model was for a .61 2 stroke, but I was mistaken. One of the nicest thing about swap meets is that you get to have a chat with kindred spirits and I had a great discussion with another chap about the second model I had up for sale, which he was flying successfully and was able to convince me to keep it. So good result all round there - I'm going to put the motor back in the Harmon Rocket and fly it this season. The observation was made that the swapmeets are a struggle these days because nobody new is coming into the hobby and those who are already in the hobby are already overloaded with their own stocks of rubbish cherished modelling items. I still like a swapmeet, even though the only thing I came away from this one with was a free Micromold tow hook and cash from the model sold. Our club swapmeet is next month, is conducted from out of our car boots rather than in a hall and is a low key thing, certainly not like the monster Northwich Swap meet which traditionally started off the season back home. Has eBay, auctions and online selling affected what makes it to the swapmeet and are there sufficient buyers who need this stuff these days?
  23. My first brushless was a 2820/10 from John Emms at Puffin Models and it was a revelation in my Cambrian Bf109E conversion. Both the Tucano and Bearcat have some of my first AXI 2820/10 motors which are brilliant, but something isn't quite right with the Tucano - not something that I was going to waste time on at the field. I'll get the wattsmeter on tomorrow and see what's up. It could even be that the undercarriage isn't running freely enough.
  24. That is consistent with my experience of multiple electric powered models with the electric retracts supplied via the receiver and using ESCs with good quality switch mode BECs onboard. Some of the minority of models with mechanical retracts do have provision for a separate battery for the retracts.
  25. Toto - you can put your wattsmeter in series between your battery and ESC, then work the servos one at a time and see if any of them are making an excessive current draw above the base level of just the radio working with the servos not doing anything. Make a note of the current drawn for each servo and see if there are any outstanding anomalies. Easier still if you have access to a DC clamp meter as you can zero it out for the base level and any additional current draw is even more noticeable.
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