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Posts posted by leccyflyer
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What GG said. It strikes me that, at this stage of his model flying training, Toto would be much better concentrating on learning to fly, getting the hours in the air, enjoying himself and familiarising himself with the sit of his aeroplane at different throttle settings in different conditions, rather than worrying about attempting to programme his transmitter to beep at him when his throttle is set at a particular datum power.
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PlaneOldeBargain have one for sale on eBay at the moment.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305351665728
There have been quite a few ARTFs and kits of the Turbo Raven available over the years. Like most models the manufacturers are likely to have designed them from publicly available three views, rather than requiring access to the original full size manufacturers blueprints.
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Rain stopped play today, so moved onto motor tests for the FW190, three motors (AXI 2826/12, AXI 2826/10 and Thumper T4240/10 with multiple props to test, around 11x7" - 12"x8", including making up some adapters to allow mixing the 3.5mm and 4mm bullets which are fitted to the various motors. Tried three different battery packs too, some older G-Power 4s1p 4200mah, standard HRB 4s1p 3300mah and my newer Zee Power 4s1p 3300mah- the latter working out slightly better. If I find I need more weight to balance there is always the option of the HRB 4s1p 4000mah packs, which are meant for my P-38 Lightning and so still have their horrible XT60 connectors.
Results were good, giving an informed choice between 500-600w in, with current draw at WOT between 34 and 45 amps, which I guess will rarely be needed and that equates to an estimated 130-150w/lb, if the model comes out around 4lbs AUW..
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Well, you know my opinion regarding the BoB Richard and that 109/Spitfire Mk1 combo would definitely get my vote. There's a huge gap in my fleet for a 55" Span Emil and nothing on the horizon that could easily fill it.
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Surely it wouldn't be possible to see even a 96" span aerobat at >3,000ft altitude, sufficiently well to control it?
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56 minutes ago, toto said:
Hi Grumpy,
At times I flew slightly shorter circuits to cut out the worst and as the day wore on, the sun wasn't so bad. I think a pair of prescription sun glasses will be the order of the day though sometime in the near future. With react to lightlenses.
Toto
Sounds like you've had a grand day Toto and lots of success. You'll be coming on in leaps and bounds if the weather plays ball and you can get the hours in.
Concur 100% on the idea of some prescription sunglasses. I wouldn't be without mine and have recently replaced my old Axis Ranger prescription sunglasses with some orange Zeiss lenses, which I believe are intended for shooting sports - they really make the model stand out against grey or blue skies, provide the necessary UV protection and are fully up to date with a new prescription. I did try having some of the BMFA recommended glasses, but they simply didn't work for me. The company was very good and gave me a full refund, but the original prescription from Vision Express just didn't do it for distance. The small independent optician that I used did a fantastic job and these current glasses are superb. I don't like flying with my varifocals, but for extremely bright sunny days I do have some clip on dark lenses that go over my normal glasses.
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Looking good Richard - please add me to the list for a retracts kit for the FW190. There's a decision to be made whether to wait for the retracts or cracks on and try the belly landing mode first.
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Good afternoon flying today, light winds, quite warm, no gloves needed and the patch starting to dry up nicely. Flew a variety of wee fellas, plus my SE5a and even a stupid stall, which was my own fault, on landing with my Seafire didn't spoil a nice low key start to the weekend. Spring is definitely here, looking forward to more flying tomorrow morning too.
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The Betty bomber is way out there - doubt that one in a dozen modellers would recognise one if one rocked up at the field, so would likely be a not very saleable kit. Japanese aeroplanes are rather unrepresented here. I have a few Zeros, but from my Airfix building days, always liked the Mitsubishi Dinah twin - IIRC Hirobo used to do a small ARTF version and Royal did a magnificent Raiden, with a spun aluminium cowl, that I fondled quite a few times in the shop, but never bought. I doubt that any Japanese aeroplane, other than the Zero, would gather enough sales to make it viable.
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Given the article format, maybe Bodders meant that they flew better in knife edge?
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2x15amp brushless ESCs in the instructions.
2x2204 20g outrunners, 3000kv
2s1p 1000mah lipo
2c 6"x4" props (1CW, 1CCW).
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That's great timing Paul - my FW190 fuselage is taking shape and I will shortly be moving onto the wing. If these are available soon, maybe I'll be able to opt for going direct to retracts, bypassing the dolly stage. 😎👍
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I would stop short of that advice to encourage the karting club to take photographs to identify any transgressors, these days it would be very easy indeed to spoof a photograph, or just change the date on which it appears a photograph was taken and you would be playing into the hands of anyone who wanted to have the site to themselves, without any model flying activities. It ought to be enough for the club to put measures in place to prevent members from flying on the days that the kart track is in operation and to let the karters know than, but I think it would be dangerous to give them ideas and make statements about contravention of the ANO.
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If it's an event being undertaken by uninvolved persons then there should be no overflying of that event. If there is a risk of losing your field due to some members wanting to overfly the go-kart track then the club needs to do something about those members, preventing them from overflying the event.
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Cliff - Banana Hobby have the parts listed, but currently out of stock.
https://www.bananahobby.com/all-tian-sheng-rc-plane-parts.html
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1 hour ago, Jonathan said:
I've got canopy glue clear drying. The reason I asked before or after covering , not sure if the oratex covering I will be using will stick to the windscreen edge overlapping about 3mm. Or after glueing on top of the oratex. I have sprayed the cabin balsa with matt paint and not sure whether the oratex will stick to the paint, does it have to be untreated balsa.
If you are in any doubt about the ability of Oratex to stick to a substrate then applying a smear of CoverGrip or, if you still have any, Balsaloc, will aid the adhesion. It should be okay though. Personally I'd cover the model and then add the canopy over that. You could iron thin strips of covering over the glued canopy edge, to finish off neatly. For semi- scale models I do like to outline the canopy framing with strips of aluminium tape and add some dummy rivets to that with a piece of narrow bore brass tube, before masking and painting the canopy frame.
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Usually canopy glue or RC Modellers glue (RC56) after covering, but on occasion, where the airframe is suitable, I use the tiny screws from Mick Reeves, after covering.
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2 minutes ago, Rich Griff said:
Thanks GG, very much appreciated. I am hoping john stennard will reply....
On page 69, top rh picture, that motor from Swm, Steve Webb models ???
Again, help greatly appreciated.
The 20p picture, the very small Rx on the rhs, a microaces jobby ?? Anyone ?
The article says that the micro brushless motor is from Steve Webb Models. It also says that the very small receiver is available from Microaces.
It's highly unlikely that John Stennard will just happen across this post. His contact details are in the magazine article, so you could ask him directly by email about the source for the tiny brushed motor, ESC and lipo combination.
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Less than a penny each if you buy 1000 at once....
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The motor on page 67 of the May RCM&E is a brushed motor.
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£3.49 for 200 on eBay - that's less than tuppence each.
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Yep, every time I buy a cup of overpriced brown liquid from one of those chains I collect an appropriate number of these very useful stirring sticks, despite taking neither sugar, nor milk. They are so useful in many ways - perfect leading edge reinforcement for 6mm depron wings, superb paint and epoxy stirrers and applicators and clipping the end off makes for nice lightweight control horns. The chain doesn't lose out, since I'm partaking of neither sugar, nor milk and they would go in the bin anyway. I've nowhere near a shoebox full though, maybe a dozen on the go at any one time.
Don't eat Magnums these days but a bulk buy of lolly sticks from eBay is very cheap, with hundreds in a pack and lasts a long time. These are useful as stirrers and applicators, plus local hardwood reinforcement - nice hardpoints for mini and micro servos into balsa and foam.
The Big Question ?
in Warbird kits
Posted
Yep - in my experience, which isn't huge, EDFs need to either have tarmac runways if fitted with retracts, be super powerful if aiming to use retracts on grass, be small enough and with sufficient excess power to be hand launched or need a bungee. Fixed gear is right out. My clubmates have had lots of success with the wee Arrows 50mm Hawk and T-33, my attempts with the tN Gnat and Jet Provost have been much less successful.
If you are really into jets, those hurdles are surmountable with some effort, but as a dyed-in-the-wool propellor fan I'd have to think twice about whether to go for a large EDF build. Unless it were a Hunter, or maybe a Harrier, or a Phantom. 🙂