Steve Houghton

57 and 75 please  

It was my first visit to Cosford. I took my family on Saturday, having taken a gamble and bought a reduced price advance ticket. Great gamble, as the rain stopped when we arrived at 11.00 am, and the sun gradually emerged as the day went on.   My eldest daughter (10) sat and read Harry Potter all day! My youngest (6) really enjoyed the Breitling model wing walkers, and she was mirroring the movements of the r/c wing walking ladies each time they came low enough to be seen!   Mrs H. and I just enjoyed being outside on a day that turned out warm and sunny, and we all came back with suntanned faces. We found the commentary particularly refreshing, although the PA speakers weren't working at our end of the line until early afternoon. Whilst it may have lacked some of the polish of 'DB Sound', it was presented more from the pilots' point of view, with interviews with some of them as they flew. The Dawn Patrol gave their own commentary on their models, which was highly informative. I enjoyed this technical content, which added much to a truly enjoyable day. I didn't get the commentator's name, but a big pat on the back from us!   The BBMF Lancaster fly-past was a truly gut-stirring event. Since some of the models had been so big, my 6-year old remarked 'Is that a model too!'.   The trend towards more formation flying added a significant 'wow' factor to many of the displays, particularly the TJD 'pacific' WWII models, the two jets (Boomerangs?) the B17s and of course the stunning Vulcan and Victor.   Thanks guys. I'm sure we shall be back next year.          

I usually pre-bend the cap strips to suit the rib curvature by rolling a pencil, or similar cylindrical object, gently down the back of the strip. It can then be glued in one go. Make sure you don't crush the wood, though.    

Thanks to everyone for continued contributions, and to Chris and erfolg for the eutectic debate; all interesting stuff, but I have looked at references to this on the web and am none the wiser. I concur with erfolg that what matters is that leaded seems to be easier to use, and also runs less risk of heat damage to components. I’m still waiting for the first brave soul to pop their head over the parapet and declare that ‘lead-free rules’, or at least is tolerable! I’m keen to go green where possible, but this is one case where I’ll opt out for now. Perhaps I can offset my saving in carbon emissions from using electric instead of IC against the lead fumes from a few soldered joints. That should keep the enviro crowd happy . Edited By Steve Houghton on 04/07/2011 17:27:06

Thanks to Steve for the JPL report link. This raises another issue I had never considered, that being whether to 'wick' a solder cup after tinning and before adding the wire. Presumably this means removing the excess solder with a sucker or wick after tinning. The report indicates that this does indeed reduce the amount of gold in the joint, but even without doing this the joints were able to withstand 100g vibration, so not worth bothering about ! Also, the 'wicking' of the solder cups adds another heat cycle into the process, so best avoided.   Other web reports do indicate that gold embrittlement can be an issue, but until this forum starts getting reports of mass joint failures on gold plated connectors, I think we can ignore the issue for modelling applications.    Edited By Steve Houghton on 01/07/2011 13:09:40

Thanks to everyone for the feedback so far . It seems to reinforce my perception that modellers aren't using lead-free very widely, if at all.   Prior to reading these comments I was tempted to try the lead-free, but am decidedly reticent now. I've just bought a roll of 60/40 leaded from component-shop!   Erfolg mentioned 'the gold issue', which I was unaware of. The web indicates that tin based solders (i.e. both leaded and lead-free) should not be used with gold, but don't we do this all the time with gold-plated connectors without any significant problems?   One reason for this thread was to solicit practical experiences of lead-free from anyone, rather than just a reluctance to try new products. Must admit, I'm reluctant! Hence, I'm still interested to know if anyone out there is using lead-free successfully, or have you all tried and failed ?   Steve    

About to embark on my first electric model, I have read many soldering threads on this forum which refer to the problems with lead-free solder. However, I haven't seen a thread devoted to people's experiences of lead-free. I would appreciate your views on:   1) Are you successfully using lead-free solder for electric flight or RC connections?   2) If you need to repair existing connections, does it matter whether you mix lead-free and leaded solders, as you may not know what was used originally?   3) I have read that you should not mix leaded/lead-free, but they seem to use the same metals in different proportions; typically leaded being 60/40 tin/lead, and lead-free being 99/1 tin/copper, sometimes with a little silver. Why are these incompatible?   4) Have you experienced the reported problems of lead-free solder destroying tips designed for leaded solder?   5) Do you have any tips for successful lead-free soldering, apart from the need to increase the iron temperature in most cases?   6) Do you avoid lead-free at all costs?   Your views would be gratefuly received.        

I think the previous related thread was this one, for historical interest! Spend  

Can't wait to get home from work - Mrs H phoned to say the Postie's left a large package for me today!   (sorry - not trying to rub it in, just very excited!)    

Dear David and team,   Assuming that you mean me rather than my namesake 'Steve Houghton 1', then I'm thrilled to bits and can't wait for the postie . Many thanks indeed.   As I said in my competition post - great and generous guys on this superb forum!   Wishing you all a great end to the Easter break.   P.S. If it's the 'other' Steve Houghton - congratulations, Steve!  

What a great forum this is - great people, lots of advice, witty banter (sorry Dave!), superbly run and moderated, kind, generous, and now... wanting to give me a new toy (that should do it!)   Yes please!  

Steve,   I totally agree. I usually photocopy the page before cutting, then tape the copy back in place when I've cut-out my guaranteed-to-win form. I'll let you know how I get on with the Yak, by the way!   They used to print rules about 'photocopies not accepted', but I note they don't seem to do that any longer. Perhaps copies are allowed, since they must be able to check for multiple entries. Much depends on whether they just draw my winning entry from the hat or add every entrant's details into a database first!  

Dan,   Don't know why you repaired it with that awful white/blue/turquoise stuff. I think the original colour was better!   Have you run out of the red velour then  Edited By Steve Houghton on 25/03/2011 17:47:24

Anyone remember Sean Bannister's aerobatic funster 'Zippy' (plan RC1260) back in the late 70's? It was covered in patterned chiffon   You're in elite company, then, Dan!  

I'm just putting together my first electric model, and have decided to use XT60 connectors, as discussed by Nigel Hawes in a recent RCM&E.   I wondered whether I could make up a 'removable' spark suppressor, consisting of a male and female XT60 wired back to back but with a resistor in the +ve lead. Insert this first between battery and ESC, remove after a few seconds by which time the capacitors will have charged, then connect the battery to ESC. If this is done quickly, will the capacitors retain enough charge that making the final connection will have no spark, or very little?    

Thanks Tom. This begs one final ESC question (trying not to drift off topic too much):   If the LVC cut-off point is reached and the motor cuts, does an ESC with BEC:   a) allow a LiPo to be flattened through the BEC by the RX and servos, since it is getting dangerously near to its minimum discharge voltage but probably has enough voltage to continue powering RX and servos? b) have a secondary LVC cut-off point for the BEC as well?   I suspect the answers are (a) yes and (b) no, since it's probably better to loose a LiPo than lose the whole model if the RX power was suddenly cut.   This could be an argument for fitting a separate RX battery.  

Thanks for the further comments, Tim and Tom.   I think I shall re-read the other threads dealing with UBECs as the possible solution. However, with regard to Tim's points: 3) The prototype JP Fox model needed 8oz of nose weight, so I could use an extra battery instead of dead weight. 4) The LVC is certainly a great indicator of a low battery, unless I catch a booming thermal and turn the motor off (it is a powered glider, after all)!   Many thanks again for the useful feedback - bedtime now!  

Tom & Tim,   Thanks for your replies.   Tim; my question 2 should have been clearer: If I buy an ESC with a BEC but want to use a separate RX battery, will I need to cut the red wire in the RX supply coming from the BEC (as I know you have to when using a UBEC)?   Tom, Yes I have a Watt Meter ready for use. I bought the recommended JP 14 x 8 folding prop. The JP instructions recommend a 60A ESC with 3S LiPo - the motor is rated up to 45A. If the optional electric spoilers are fitted (don't know if I can afford them!), making a total of 4 servos + 2 spoiler motors, JP recommends using a separate RX battery or UBEC, hence my question. However, given the infrequent use of spoilers I would have thought a BEC would have enough power.  

I'm about to fit out my first electric model and would appreciate a liitle ESC help before I buy.   1) Can I use an ESC with BEC if I want to use a separate RX/servo battery, or must I buy an OPTO?   2) If I can use the BEC ESC, will I need to cut the red wire coming from the BEC?   3) If the red is cut, the ESC has no positive voltage reference for the throttle signal from the RX, so can this cause any problem if the RX battery voltage dips below the ESC's own positive supply, which I assume is regulated from the flight battery?   I understand Timbo's preference for not doing this, but I want to understand the options available before I decide what to buy.   The model will be a JP Fox electric glider with JP C35-26 1000KV brushless motor.   Thanks for any help offered.   Steve

Erfolg,   On Windows 7 Home Premium 32-bit I just followed the usual procedure, via the installation wizard. I installed under my Admin user this weekend.   Steve W-O, To find the extra planes you need to create a user account from the 'Simulators' page, which you seem to be having trouble with. If you can get an account, then when you login it takes you to a page containing all the extra downloads. If you can't get an account, I'm sorry but I can't help.    

Rick,   RC Plane Master can also handle it, as per my recent posting on your thread: Subscription freebie   SteveEdited By Steve Houghton on 17/01/2011 13:30:06

I've just installed my RC Plane Master (RCM&E subscription gift) on Windows 7 Home Premium with no problems. Kaspersky does warn of a keylogger but you know what's being installed, so it's acceptable. There is some flickering on the controller calibration screen, and sometimes on the model selection screen, but this doesn't stop it from working. Can be configured for Mode 4 TX quite easily (which everyone should use )   I've also downloaded the extra models from the website, and am now having a ball slope soaring the gliders. What a fabulously realistic soaring simulation.   Select the Super Slick glider, dial in a 30mph blow with a touch of turbulence, and you'll think you really are on the fell with your eyes streaming!  The only problem is the limited number of hill-top launch sites available. It's best to fly a power model to the hill-top and land, then press F8 to set a Custom Start Point which then appears in your list of launch sites.   I also set myself a target of starting from a flat field catapult launch with the Slick glider, then dashing to the foothills to pick up some lift to ascend to one of the mountain tops. A few minutes' ridge soaring as far as I can go, then return and try to land back at the launch site.  The Grassy Bowl and Lonely Mountain landscapes are ideal for this, although the Muddy Volcano is also possible, but avoid the vicious curl-over at the lip.   I've been attempting some DS, but not managed it yet , but then I've never tried it for real.   Well done, Reality Craft.    Edited By Steve Houghton on 17/01/2011 13:25:49

Tony,   I, too have fond memories of my MacGregor Codamac - see my avatar! It's safely mothballed in a drawer, complete with a Ripmax servo. It saw much service as my first set for slope soaring back in the '70s, with a Performance Kits Buzzard, and then Dave Hughes Silent Knight . Progressed to thermal flying off a towline pulled by my long-suffering Dad - you had to be quick on the button when it started to weave!    I remember adding a battery extension cable to the TX so that I could use a huge PP9 9V power pack stuffed into my pocket for those long sloping sessions, as the standard 6 AA cells didn't last too long!   Edited By Steve Houghton on 11/01/2011 12:19:49 Edited By Steve Houghton on 11/01/2011 12:20:07

Barrie,   Was this the advert you saw?   Gliders - just search for 'bungee'    Edited By Steve Houghton on 06/01/2011 13:22:29

Got it!     Mine arrived today, so don't abandon hope all you mag-less subscribers.   So there is a Santa Claus after all