John Timmis
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Everything posted by John Timmis
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Hi all, Wow this forum is really buzzing. Danny, I like your rudder shrouds that's a great idea. All this talk of rudders leads me to mention tailplanes & elevators. So here is the tail of one Chippy. I could foresee that there might be a problem in fiixing the elevators to the tailplane. 4 hinges, 2 elevator joiners, clevis, keeping the glue of the hinge pins while not gluing the surfaces together & everything lined up................... To simplify things a bit, the elevator joiner pushes into 2 lengths of snake tube epoxied into grooves in the root ribs. You can now take it apart as often as you want &the elevators help to keepthings in line. Suggestions welcome. Cheer John
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Hi Silver solder would give piece of mind. The elevator joiner is a critical part. Silver soldering is not difficult to do but you can't do it with a soldering iron. Apart from making exhaust manifolds & the like I have never used anything but soft solder. A Soft soldered joint can be considerably strengthened by first binding it with wire ( copper wire or fuse wire will do) This gives a much bigger surface area for the solder. You pays your money & takes your choice. I used soft solder but it will get a good pull in the vice. Remember the 4 rules of soldering : 1) KEEP THE PARTS CLEAN, 2 ) same as 1, 3) ensure the parts fit well, 4) use an iron thats big enough. I have just hung a 10lb wiegh from the end of the eevator horn. That will do for me. Cheers John
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. Hi again Here are a few more photos of the cowling. Getting this right with a good fit to the cowling halves is crucial. Don't rush this, time spent here will pay off. I don't know what experience others have had, but I found that epoxy didn't work to well on the cowl moulding ( which is polyester). I ended up using Ronseal wood filler. Cheers John
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. Hi again Here are a few more photos of the cowling. Getting this right with a good fit to the cowling halves is crucial. Don't rush this, time spent here will pay off. I don't know what experience others have had, but I found that epoxy didn't work to well on the cowl moulding ( which is polyester). I ended up using Ronseal wood filler. Cheers John
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Hi folks, Sorry to interupt the building. The ipad is playing up again so the text will be brief, the photos will have to explain themselves. This shows what is under the cowl. The start of the motor mount & the battery compartment. The 2 pegs locate the top cowl. The rounded hole is for the battery cooling duct. Thats all for now. Heads down again. Cheers John.
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Hi folks About this time the canopy & cowl arrived from Traplet enabling further progress to be made in the motor / battery area. A motor mount was cut from 6mm ply, the cowl drilled for the motr spindle & the air intake sanded out with the dremel. The whole thing was now assembled for a tril fit & a photo. Cheers John
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Model needs a name......can you help with a suggestion?
John Timmis replied to Mark Kettle 1's topic in Chit-chat
Hi Mark It has to be "ELECTRIC KETTLE" John -
Hi again, The ipad seems to be working again so lets get on with the fuselage. As you can see from the photos. The engine bearers were retained but needed to be spaced out to allow the battery to fit between them. They were also cut away from the upper fuselage shell & glued into the lower half. The battery compartment will be the rectangular hole in the former. The rounded hole below it will be an air cooling duct. The photos also show the servos in place in the front cockpit. I used standard size servs which do encroach a bit into the cockpit space but the hope is that they will be covered by the pilot. The receiver battery will be installed below the seat in the rear cockpit. Next instal the rudder & elevator linkage. I used snakes. Don't forget to secure the clevises and ensure that thy won't unscrew. You may want to build in some cockpit detail at this stage. When you really can"t think of anything else to do, only then think about joining the fuselage halves. To join the shells I linked together a long string of rubber bands. Starting at the tail, over the elevator & then work round the fuselage up to the front . The roll of newspaper protects the soft fuselage spine.
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Hi folks. Just logged on to update the blog & found that the ipad is playing up. I can't upload photos from the ipad library to the Model Flying album. The software was updated a couple of days ago. Anyone got any ideas? Cheers John
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Hi Danny I got a 14/7 but haven't tried it yet. It is one of the recommended sizes for the motor. Cheers john.
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HI again, I returned home from the LMA show at Cosford with all the bits for the power train. 6s Dynam lipo, 650 kv motor ( 1150 watts, 230 gms), 70 amp speed controller. A bit more butch than I expected but still in the right ball park. I'm told that nobody asks for 5s lipos any more? Anyway, the model can now be lashed up to determine the the CG & the disposition of the components. Note that this is only a lash up. the motor is held with duct tape & the fuselage is rubber banded together. It turned out quite nose heavy & a battery compartment had to be created with an access through F2. Next step will be to sort out the motor mount & plan the battery compartment/ cooling arrangements. Cheers John.
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HI again, I returned home from the LMA show at Cosford with all the bits for the power train. 6s Dynam lipo, 650 kv motor ( 1150 watts, 230 gms), 70 amp speed controller. A bit more butch than I expected but still in the right ball park. I'm told that nobody asks for 5s lipos any more? Anyway, the model can now be lashed up to determine the the CG & the disposition of the components. Note that this is only a lash up. the motor is held with duct tape & the fuselage is rubber banded together. It turned out quite nose heavy & a battery compartment had to be created with an access through F2. Next step will be to sort out the motor mount & plan the battery compartment/ cooling arrangements. Cheers John.
