Aslan

Epoxy a strip of ply over the existing mount. When it cures, drill two holes through the ply and through the fuse.  Epoxy dowels into the holes all the way through. This will "tie" the new ply mount to the old one and the fuse. 

Cool Craig. Best of luck with it.

Machine screws don't sound good to me either on a 90. Make the cowl removable as normal. Fixed in place onto blocks on the firewall. 

We certainly do Ackers......... if only our opinions could change the weather, we would be laughing all the way to the patch.

Yeah....see where you both are coming from and agree. But the point I was making was this.... all models carry serious risk to others,so where do we draw the line? Just to add while I'm here(without malice of course) 10" on a model is huge....40cc generates twice as much power as a 20cc, but does not necessarily have to be in a model twice as large. To me the weight thing was irrelevant also. Rx battery failure carries serious risk in any circumstance, not just anything  26cc and up. Any prop size is dangerous and both a 26cc petrol or glow(1.50 I think) will turn an 18" prop. A 1.20 FS is just as powerful if not more, as a petrol. In fact to create the same amount of power using a petrol engine, the capacity is larger than that of a glow. The point I'm making(badly) Ackers, is because it is petrol, I don't think it should be given precedence over glow of the same capacity. Glow,cc for cc is more powerful. It really isn't a big model imho. If an O.S. 1.20AX went into one, would it make it any safer,not really. However there is a vast difference between a 74" Yak 54 and an 88" Yak 54 the latter certainly has the extra Rx pack,(just had a look to make sure). Anyway thats my tenth pennies worth....and an interesting last few posts too lads 

Plenty of blenders and no twisters.Pic. B looks like your average tank bung.They are not going to twist around each other  enough to restrict fuel flow. If they did twist, you would be hard pressed to get them to twist twice, and even then, there would be no restriction.  Edited By Aslan on 03/05/2010 16:54:18

I think you're missing the point Lee. There is a huge difference between a 40cc Raven and a 1.20  size Edge. If safety was an issue, every model up there would have two packs and a backer or powerbox.....imho.

I use double clunks all the time Glow and Petrol, and have suggested it many times over the past. Like Peter, I swear by the system also. In the past I did use the remote fuel filler, and did have issues with them. Think they were pricey as well. Never had a problem with them twisting either. I don't think it would cause a problem if they did "cos it wouldn't affect the carb. feed. If  anything, the weight of two clunks on the feed would ensure it was always in fuel. 

I think you'll find a better one out there Ackers. That does not look right to me. I have a Cermark  SU31 which flies great. Can't remember the cost, in fact in hindsight, I did change the undercarriage  on it, so maybe the same could be done with the ASM Sukhoi. Just a thought, but have you considered a Yak 54. Have three(greedy lad) from various manufacturers. They all fly great, and 9 out of  10 look great also. 

I might be back in here.I know about the pressure line thing, and it won't matter if the tank is level with the carb, I have a couple of Zenoahs myself. Now here's what I'm thinking.... on the Zenoahs the plug gap is not a major issue because the spark is super strong from the magneto/coil setup, but would it be a little more critical for an e.i. setup. Might be worth a look at James. Maybe the gap should be closed a little........Edited By Aslan on 01/05/2010 13:05:31

Why not adjust them anyway. Do no harm at all, and good practice. I do however disagree with Doug(without malice of course) Tappet adjustment is a critical part of engine maintenance and an engine does not have to be damaged or disassembled to do it. You say it's a new Saito, therefore it  must be done after break in, as with all fourstrokers. The only way you will become confident is by doing it for yourself. It is a lot easier than you may think Gazzazh. From simply adjusting you will learn the difference between T.D.C. and B.T.C. How they work.Where the intake stroke is,where the compression stroke is,etc. etc. Go for it. It's not like you're taking the thing apart. And keep asking......... 

Yeah, the undercarriage is crap and needed beefing up. The flimsy tail wheel is no better, but a great flyer. Oh.....Oh.....Oh, Have you seen the Sbach. This was my first choice but I thought they only did a 50cc lad, but i noticed on Akers site they have a 30cc one, wrong colour for me, but I will be checking back for the beautiful black scheme.....mmmmmmm. It looks to me that they  all come from GW models in China Aker. 

Pay close attention to the compression stroke side of things. Remove the plug also, much easier to turn the shaft.

Keep asking Gazzazh and be careful, 'cos it can be tricky. But once you do it once you should be sorted.

That's me out James. Looks like you're doing it to the book for sure. Best of luck,and I'm sure you'll sort it out.

I have learned everything regarding stress, from the great Homer J. Simpson and even greater, and more learned Peter Griffin.

It certainly does matter. Now relax.......Think of a sunny blue sky........ Gentle breezes......... Flying gracefully...... there you go........ sigh...... mmmmm........ Perfect.......

Don't  apologize Erfolg,it was very interesting up to a point. But which ones do you think Steve should use? 

Bummer with the sub Cs. It actually is not good to charge them overnight all the time, and of course they need to be cycled every so often,but that subject is dealt with elsewhere. There is an MX2 30cc version due soon. And funnily enough I have one of those ST lads also, a cracker for the money. 

You most certainly are explaining your point........... Too well. Edited By Aslan on 30/04/2010 11:06:22

Hello.

Yep......Eneloop are the ones for sure. Personally, I've never had a problem with the sub Cs which are   Sanyo cells also. I'm sure you'll have no probs with the SC either Craig, but it's nice to have a wish list. Sometimes Inwoods,or Steve Webbs servo shop do deals for 645s, so it will be well worth your while to shop around. I'm seriously considering Globals MX2 ......... Just need to make some room  

Here's me tuppence worth.....645s all round(bullet proof) and one 6v sub C pack, the higher the capacity the better.No need for digital servos. The O.S. 1.20AXs are fantastic engines. All this of course depends on budget of course,but what you save on the unnecessary backer might go to the quality O.S.  The sub C packs are heavy,but they double as nose weight. Best of luck with your choice.

Can't really offer any advice James. Have had a look around out of curiosity though, and some were saying there is an addendum to the manual, and it seems to point to the carb. Don't know if it's any help to you, but it might be worth a google search, 'cos quite a few owners have had trouble with their FGs. To be honest with you,one of the reasons I go for Saito glows is, I enjoy messing around with them, and sometimes it can take a while to get them sorted,but as far as a four stroke petrol goes,it doesn't make sense to me, especially  such a small size,but that's just my opinion. Anyway keep going at it and keep us posted on your progress. The knocking does not sound good at all. Do you mix oil with the petrol? Might be worth having a look at the tappets. When the transition is not good, it is usually the low end needle setting,but the hunting thing needs to be sorted first. Have you left an open breather from the tank? Presume it 's EI, is the battery O.K.? Sorry it seems like obvious questions James but you never know..........Edited By Aslan on 30/04/2010 00:50:12

Cool site Lee, nice one and thanks.