barry arthur

Thanks Guys the video was most helpfull. Hope to be having a try tomorrow, after a range check and test flight with Y lead which is the default really. The instruction manuals really are a bit obtuse, and only by going on line do you get to where you need to be.The manual implies that there are normal and dual ailerons only...........it doesn't mention flapperons as a position. Argh............. Thanks again, Barry.

I am just upgrading my Sirius powered glider, which I have previously flown on 35meg with a Sanwa RD6000 Sport, to 2.4 Gig using a DX8i with AR600 Rx. The Sirius does not have seperate ailerons and flaps but I was able to create crow brakes on the sanwa using a flaperon function, which when activated put both ailerons up by about 6mm, and the normal aileron stick movement was superimposed on top of this. My DX8i manual does not recognise flaperons, but has detailed instruction for flaps,which I assume are seperate flaps. Can anyone advise (step by step idiots guide if possible),please, how I can achieve the above described flpaeron function on a DX8i.The sirius flies perfectly well with a Y lead connecting the seperate ailron servos into the aileron channel of the Rx, but it would be nice to get my crow brakes back to play with. Thanks to anyone who can help.I don't suppose many are flying today, if it is as wet as it is up here. Barry Arthur.

Couldn't say so on the voting form, but I use thumbs for FW. As a novice heli flyer I think I prefer finger plus thumb, but not sure yet! So I'll sit on the fence for now. Barry.

Hi Mike Just to remind you that I, and I am sure others, would like to see your Reno colour scheme.Now that you are good at posting pics that should not be a problem! Barry

Nice to see the different colour schemes being used. Have I missed a post or has Mike Rieder not yet shown us his Reno colour schemes which he was researching? Regarding Reg's version.........it looks very clean and crisp but I have to confess that I think the nose looks better with its 'jowels'. Great to see the continued interest in Tim's very attractive design. I havn't started yet but I just have to build one! Barry Arthur.

I am not going to risk a domestic by saying which I like best, but these colour schemes look excellent in terms of visual appeal very very smart. I do wonder how they will read against a grey winter sky though, being largely silver or white.Perhaps the strong coloured stripe will suffice? I hope we will continue to see designs as the builds get completed such as the Reno. Also, have the wood kits really got going yet? Would you believe that I am waiting for Solartex to finish my Corben Baby Ace at the moment? But I am nearly ready for a kit, David.   Barry.   Edited By barry arthur on 19/02/2012 17:37:24

Thanks Tim and Peter for your words of wisdom.   I can follow the arguement about better separation of the antennae if you are flying large models where this is easily physically achieved, but in such models you are probably into 7 channel plus anyway and have bags of room to separate the main and satellite units.   In the case of a powered glider or wot4 it is less easy to find room. I have used a lot of Futaba 617S receivers which are of similar dimensions and aerial length without problems and it is only hearing the Spektrum knockers that made me wonder why Spektrum thought it necessary to have a 6 channel satellite jobby in addition to the AR 600. ( I realise that the 617S has 7 channels but this is hardly relevent in this discussion).   I use a Futaba T7C tranny and hate its user unfriendlyness. The adjustment screens are, for me, horrendous to use, but I only realised this after getting a DX6i for my bind and fly indoor stuff,planes and helis.This tranny is a model of logic and useability and I recently bought a DX8 for my older outdoor stuff which is still on 35meg.   So I am happy with the compact AR600 receivers and shall stay with them for now.

Could some of you exerts out there advise me what are the relative merits of single receiver e.g. ar600 versus receiver plus satellite e.g. ar6210 receivers.Many of my planes are suitable for 6 channel jobbies, and I like the ar600 for its compactness, especially in very slim fuzzes. What am I missing,if anything, by not using the more expensive ar6210 receiver plus satellite? Thanks in advance for your advice. Barry.

Hi Tim   Thanks for your prompt response.I hope you did not mind my suggesting mods straight away.   I had suspected the reasoning about the wing ribs, a practical solution indeed.   Regarding the increased rudder dims, I think I might try a 50% to 100% increase. The ability to do knife edge loops is certainly appealing although I think I would get my young expert to try it first! Hope I'm not pushing the envelope too far.   Purely for looks I think I would try the same amount on the elevator, and if it proves to be over sensitive I suppose it could be tamed by reducing movement and/or substantial expo.   I'm presently building something at the opposite end of the spectrum, a DB Sport and Scale Corben Baby Ace and since my modelling rate is rather slow I don't know when I will get to the Sweep, but will let you know eventually.   Barry.

Can't find Tim Hooper's build blog for the Clean Sweep.   Would Tim care to comment on   -Why a flat bottomed wing section as opposed to semi or fully symetrical.   -I would like to increase rudder size to make knife edging better.Presumably the elevator could be increased by the same amount to visually match.The big question is by how much.....50% bigger......100%.........?   What a super looking design.Just the thing for my next project after the current scale one is finished. Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 10/01/2012 15:51:48