Dave Garrett 1

Hi Everyone I have done a bit more on the Pup. All the outer & centre wing sections have now been build. The aileron servo mounts have been constructed & mounter in the lower wings. The anchor points for the wing struts have been epoxied into position (split pins glued into spruce blocks). The next stage was to separate the ailerons from the outer wing panels. The leading edge of the ailerons are shaped to a shallow 'V'. Scrap balsa is used to fill the gap between the rear wing spars in the aileron bays. The ailerons were each hinged with Kavan mini hinges. finally the aileron horn are glued into position. Scrap balsa sheet was added adjacent to the horns to support the covering. The wing sections are now ready for joining. I have now have a replacement motor & speed controller, so I am in a position to construct the motor box for the fuselage firewall. With that done, I should be able to crack on with the fuselage. That all for now Cheers Dave

Hi Everyone I can't believe it has been over a month since my last post. Over the last month, I have been steadily working on the starboard wing. I have also been working on other projects. The weather has improved & I have been able to get some flying in. I have also lost a week due to man flu (much worse than female flu). All these things has resulted in slower than expected progress on the Monocoupe. However, we finally have a completed starboard wing. The next stage is to separate the ailerons & flaps from the wing. Hopefully there won't be such a large time gap to the next update Cheers Dave

Hi Trevor, I opted for the olive drab solartex, I will probably give the airframe a coat of satin fuel proofer to fill the weave & make it easier to keep clean. I will probably start cover a the tail feather this week to break up the never ending balsa butchery on the Pup & Monocoupe. Everyone I could make no more progress on the fuselage as I need to drill the firewall to suit the motor. Until I get a replacement, I am stuffed. I carried on and completed the tail feathers. The elevators have been joiner with a bent wire joiner & hinged to the stabilizer with Kavan mini hinges. The Stabiliser & elevators have been shaped, final sanded & are now ready for covering. Similarly for the fin & Rudder The upper wing panel have been framed up The starboard lower wing panel was next. I added a light ply brace across the bay where I will mount the servo. I even remembered to add slot in the ribs for the servo wires. Finally the Lower port wing & centre section. I have just double checked, I have made port & starboard wing panels for the upper & lower wing, with remembering the servo wire holes, somebody must be smiling on me Cheers Dave

Hi everyone Finally the port wing is finished. Apparently , you now have to make another one After the 2nd & 3rd wing tip laminations are added, the lower rib cap strips are added. The LE sheeting is then scalloped behind the wing spars. That was a bit of fun. To make the job simpler, I decided to make a couple of templates. The outer ribs are spaced further apart than the inner ribs. I raided Mrs G crockery cupboard to find suitable plates, saucers or bowls with approximately the right radii. I placed the selected crocks over pieces of scrap light ply & drew round the edge. They were then cut & sanded to shape. (If Mrs G reads this I'm in deep trouble!) The template shapes were than transferred to the wing sheeting & then cut out using a Dremel sanding drum. The wing tip laminations are then trimmed flush with the parallel section of the TE & LE. Full length balsa LE & TE strips can then be glued into position. After the glue had cured, the LE, TE and wing tips are planed & rough sanded to their final shape. The last job is to install paper tubes to carry the servo wires. The kit even included sheet paper for the task. I will wait until the starboard wing is completed up to this stage before I separate the flaps & ailerons. I have a half day tomorrow to take Mrs G Senior (mum) to hospital. Hopefully I should have some time left to allow me to frame up the starboard wing. It will take me a couple of weeks to build the other wing, so probably no updates for a while. Cheers Dave

Hi Richard Try plugging ailerons into channel 1 & 6 (page 42 of manual is useful), From the linkage menu, select model type, then change wing to 'flying wing' Hope this helps I am also trying to get to grips with this beast Regards Dave

Thanks for the replies Trevor & Giuseppe, they are much appreciated. Glad to know I'm not to far off the straight & narrow. In my kit, the battery is installed into a ply box at the bottom of the fuselage. The battery is slid into the box though a hole in the fire wall, below the motor. If all works out, I will keep this arrangement. The battery box is sized for nicads. If you look at the photo above showing the fuselage plan, the box extends to bay with the wing bolt. I have offered my 2200 LiPo up against the plan & it is short enough to fit forward of former 102. The plan instruct you to mount the rudder & elevator servos in the bay behind the wing bolt. By shortening the battery box to suit the LiPo, there is now room between formers 102 & 103 for 2 16g servos. This should help a bit with the C of G. The brushless motor & its mount will be forward of the firewall, leaving plenty of room above the battery box for the speed controller & receiver. After fitting the battery, hopefully I can connect the deans between the pilots legs (if he don't mind too much) After work on Friday, I will stop at the LMS & buy a metre of olive drab & linen solartex. Just in case, I will tap up my roofer mate for some more lead flashing off-cuts

Hi everyone I bought the kit quite a while ago. I have only just got around to starting. I am using it as a fill in job for the quite periods in my Monocoupe build. The Pup will be electric powered and will be built with minimal scale detailing. The wing span is a compact 40", so will fit in the car fully rigged. Just fit LiPo & fly. I am thinking of covering it with solartex, as it is available in the right colours (I hate painting). I am a bit concerned that this covering may be a bit too heavy for the model. I would appreciate any advise on this subject. I could use solarfilm, but it would be glossy & not look realistic. On open the box we found this lot, all nicely packed & protected with bubble wrap. The highlight is the spun aluminium alloy cowl. The kit is fully laser cut in balsa & ply. All the wood looks to be good quality. All undercarriage & cabane wires are pre-formed. Basic hardware is supplied. I acquired the electrickery stuff from the fishy people. It is now installed in another model, so has to be replaced. The model can be build for 3 or 4 channel radio. I will use ailerons. The plan shows a single central servo set up, with the ailerons driven via bellcranks. I intend to a micro servo in each lower wing. I have offered a 9g servo onto the plan. It looks like there is just room for the servo in the wing. On with the build. The first thing I tackled was the stabilizer & elevator halves. Built over the plan from laser cut parts. simples! I fin & rudder were done next, followed by the 2 basic fuselage frames. The top longeron is 5mm sq spruce, the rest is balsa. I have done quite a bit more, I will post some more pictures soon. I welcome any comments or advise on the build and would be interested to hear from anyone who has already build & flown this model. Cheers Dave

Thanks John Looks good to me Dave

Hi Everybody I am looking for suggestions (polite only) on what I can do with this little lot This was salvaged from the wreck of a HK Sonic flying wing, after breaking one of the golden rules of RC flying. " Always initiate low fast pass inside the boundaries of your flying field" . The hedge survived! Basically, I'm looking for a plan or kit for a simple quick build model for a 63mm EDF. I prefer to build from balsa but would consider Depron. Any Suggestions? Also the impact of the flying wing crash, ripped the LiPo, speed controller & receiver from the airframe. This severed the receiver aerial. Does anybody know if replacements are available for 2.4 GHz orange receivers (Spectrum compatible). Thanks in advance Dave .