Dave Garrett 1

Exactly the same thing has happened on my credit card today, £0.44 in my case

The same is true for epoxy resins. Hence, the glue & beer fridge in the garage.😂

The thing is pretty damned good at putting dings in the top & bottom of the TE strip, you have just spent ages shaping😂. Agree with marking out & using knife free-hand to cut slot. I also find poking the end of a 6" steel rule (or hack saw blade) into the slot, is a good way to increase the width slightly for thicker hinges. Regards Dave.

Hi Dazza. Many moons ago, I built a 4 channel Super 60 from the Ben Buckle kit. If I remember correctly the only deviation from the plan was to glue on the horizontal stabiliser with epoxy. It was powered with a well used OS 40LA 2-stroke, not the most powerful engine by any means. Like KC mentioned above it did fly very well & was not difficult to fly at all, providing you do not use excessive throttle. The only time I used anything much above half throttle was on take off, if the grass on the patch was a bit long. Incidentally with the 40LA the C of G was spot on. With a 40 4-stroke, you may need a bit of lead in the tail. If you decided to glue on the horizontal stabiliser, it may be prudent to carry out as test balance prior, so you can hide the weight in the back of the fuselage. Best of luck & have fun Dave

Ha HA 45 yrs in the aerospace industry tend to make one think conservatively.😀 Dave

Hi Mike Considering the amount of time & cost involved in building the Petrel, my advice would be, go with what Chris has put on the plan. Don't risk unknowns (3D printing) for such a critical part. Best Regards Dave

Hi Matty. Just an observation. The cative nuts on the back of the fire wall look like they should be knocked in further. The prongs on the back should be fully embedded into the wood. They would be difficult to refit if they fall out when the fuselage is complete. I also add a drop or two of thin cyno to secure. Best Regards Dave

Hi Allan The only time I have experienced rubbery epoxy sets is when using the twin syringe packs. When mixing small amounts typically used by aeromodellers, the twin pack syringes don't seem to reliably eject the correct proporsion of resin & hardener. I swapped to the larger 2 bottle packs (Z epoxy or HK) & use Mk1 eyeball to judge 2 equal size puddles of resin & hardener before mixing. Regards Dave

Thanks lads, I am about to encounter exactly the same issue with my DB Sports & Scale Tiger moth?

I've had exactly the same problem with the Hobbyking transparent film. I found the masking tape method does work eventually, but you have to attack the same corner multiple times. Dave

About time I posted on the new forum. Just finished a SLEC Limbo Dancer in time for the glorious 29th. Nice straight forward kit (apart from messing up the push/pull rudder & elevator several times). Started in January, so a real quick build for me. Powered by a ASP 40.

Posted by john stones 1 Moderator on 31/01/2021 21:50:54: I'm alive n kicking then. What time does the turn come on tonight ? And who do we like from the Younger musicians/bands ? My faith in modern music was restored by Finish symphonic metal band Nightwish. Not that well known in the UK.They are led by the impressive Dutch Amazonian lady Floor Jansen. Brilliant live. Went to see them at Wembley a couple of years ago, expecting to be the oldest rocker In town. Fortunately, I did not look a bit out of place. Here one of my favourites **LINK**

Looks like a Flair Astro Hog to me. I built one about 12 years ago. Regards Dave

Thanks Will try on scrap bit of foam first Dave

Hi Everybody Anybody got any ideas how to apply the decals? The adhesive on the vinyl does not appear to be strong enough to hold them in place. Do you have prep the foam with some sort of primer? Thanks in advance Dave

Hi Onetenor I work in the aerospace industry, and nickel plate or more commonly hard chrome plate is used extensively to recover worn journals or bores. To be of any engineering use, the plating thickness is normally around 0.10mm thick (0.004" in old money). The recovery process is: Machine journal undersize by 0.20mm, plate 0.15mm thick, machine back to correct size. Unless it is an expensive component, it is not really economic. As Engine Doctor says. plating adhesion is always a problem. Regards Dave

Current favourites include Ghost Love Score, Nightwish - Symphonic metal at its best The Sound of Silence, Disturbed - Brilliant cover of the Simon & Garfunkel classic Ommadawn, Mike Oldfield - Have been listening to Mike's music for 40 years

Hi Tony Unfortunately my kit is still on the maturing shelf waiting inspiration! Hopefully I can start next summer when I become a full time aeromodeller. I will probably go electric for this one, although I am looking for an excuse to buy a Satio 45. You are correct, many kit instructions assume the builder has some experience & can work out things for themselves. The build logs on this forum are a great source of ideas for solving most problems. Regards Dave

Hi Tony I have the plan in front of me now (from early laser cut kit). As far as I can tell, part 150 is a length of 6mm square balsa cut from stock. It is used to position the servo bearers at the correct distance underneath the top fuselage doubler (part 117). I hope this helps Dave

Hi Chris. I build a 4 channel version about 10 years ago (also the low wing version). If I remember correctly, the 2 wing tip pieces are joined together before fitting & are not separated by the lower main spar. The lower main spar ends at the inside edge of the joined wing tip pieces. The top wing spar ends at the last rib. A separate angled piece of spar stock runs from the top main spar to mate with the top face of the wing tips (ending at outside edge). Also the wing tip does not lay flat on the building board. The front edge of the joined wing tip has to be raised to meet the leading edge. The front edge of the wing tip is also chamfered at approximately 45 degrees to mate correctly with the leading edge. After removing from the board, the lower spars will be slightly proud of the wing tips lower surface. The lower spars can be tapered from the last wing rib for a nice blend. I hope this helps Dave