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2W

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  1. 2W
    Stuart, please see my PM in your in box. Cheers, William
  2. 2W
    Hi Danny, I'm following with interest. Whilst building the fin and rudder and waiting for the glue to dry, I started on the fuselage sides, but there's a slight problem. To get the two front panels to fit the outline I found that there is a small gap which tapers from the 'V' to F!. on checking the positions of F3 and F4 I realised that a shim is required between the two parts to get them to fit correctly. Here's a picture to show what I mean with my shim fitted: Hope this helps. William Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 02/10/2018 19:03:24
  3. 2W

    2W posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  4. 2W
    Well done Ernie! My Brass parts have just arrived and they are perfect! Many thanks indeed. William
  5. 2W
    Hi Stuart, Many thanks for your generous offer. I've lost the 3 sheets I had, I expect that they may have been "tided up" whilst my attention was diverted, so I'm definitely interested in 3 sheets. Please PM me with the costs etc. Cheers, William
  6. 2W
    Well done Ernie! When I saw how many brass parts are required I really didn't fancy having to make them all by hand.... Roll on October! William
  7. 2W
    Hi Piers, Thanks for that: exactly the sort of thing I had in mind. I did't re-start my modelling career until late 2007, so I didn't know about the Basic 3D. I don't know about the width of the fuselage, but with my hams-for-hands, space inside is generally a struggle. William
  8. 2W
    Hi Beb, Just a thought, and referring back to your analysis of the MB Problem: When I was first learning to fly, I had an unfortunate "incident" which rendered the trainer "unavailable". With no substitute available, my instructor got out a Cougar 2000, which, oddly, I found easier to fly than the trainer, so the thought which occurs to me is why not look for a model of the same type as the Cougar 2000 which could have the potential to satisfy both the beginner and the more experienced flyer? Perhaps it could have two wing designs differing only in span to offer a true aerobatic design for the more experienced flyer using a more powerful motor and a greater wing span for the learner with a smaller motor. William P.S. Note to self: don't drink at lunch time......!
  9. 2W
    Responded last night. I hope the effort made will be worth it.
  10. 2W
    I had 3 sheets of litho plate begged from a printer's in London, but sadly, they seem to have disappeared. Instead, if I am to use litho, the only source I have will be dependant on my consumption of Wadwoth's 4X..... I was building a SE5A and wanted to use the litho for some of the detailing, inspired by this blog written by Greyhead (I believe this is Grahame Wren, and apologies to him if I am wrong!). It contains a lot of detail on working with litho plate and is worth reading if only for that, but the quality of the build is fantastic. I downloaded the whole blog, including the pictures and printed off the the whole blog, which I still have filed away. The SA5A blog unfortunately lost all the original photo illustrations (probably due to a change of file server), and without re-reading the current version of the blog on line, I don't know what is missing. Grahame also published an article on working with litho in the last issue of RCMF before Traplet folded, using some of the illustrations used in the above blog. Both the blog and the article are worth reading by anybody wanting to detail the Fury with Litho.
  11. 2W
    Hi Ernie, Please see my PM regarding payment. Cheers, William
  12. 2W
    Hi Danny, I've ordered the cut wood pack and glass parts, and will purchase the brass buts from Ernie. I'm currently finishing off a Mudry CAP21 to the Peter Miller design, but with holidays etc. there has not been much time for anything. I will be using a Laser 120 for power, but would prefer to use a RCV engine to avoid spoiling the shape of the nose with a cut out, but either way, cooling will be a problem. Using the exhaust ports to admit cooling air and routing the engine exhaust and cooling air out through the radiator with some sort of hidden venturi or ejector design might make a difference. Anyone got some thoughts on this? William
  13. 2W
    Ernie, Please add me to the list for the brass parts. Many thanks, William
  14. 2W
    RC Plane flyer. Thanks for your input. It's surprising what can be found in the most unlikely places. At one time I was seriously thinking of buy thin polyester lining material from John Lewis! In the end I chickened out and bought nylon from the LMS. FlyinBrian. Thanks for the tip. I didn't want to buy 3 or 4 different rolls of film only to find that when using different colours for trimming it would shrink out of shape.
  15. 2W
    Nearly 44,000 topics with (say) an average of 20 posts per topic amounts to a lot of work for the Mods. I admire the dedication and the even handedness they demonstrate, particularly when we express our views too strongly in more extreme language than we should. Full marks, and thank you for maintaining an excellent forum. William
  16. 2W
    In the past I have only used Solarfilm and added decoration with Solartrim. Searching the HK site has revealed no similar trimming material, so I assume that any decoration in done by ironing on different colours of HK film, but doesn't this lead to the trim shrinking back from the desired positions? If so, how do you add trim patterns and colours? Help! William
  17. 2W
    Best wishes David, and I hope that the "blip" is just that and not going to prevent you doing all the things you enjoy. As one suffering a "blip" I know how it feels to have to have to slow down to the point that everything takes so much longer to do. Good luck for the future, William
  18. 2W
    Many thanks Peter. It look like I will have to raid the piggy bank again to get another engine! Best wishes, William
  19. 2W
    Hi Peter, I am building a CAP21 from your free plan in RCM&E, but need to select an engine: I have the choice of a SC30 FS or SC52 FS if the smaller engine is too small. Either would be mounted inverted to allow the exhaust to blow out below the fus. I would prefer to use the 30FS but is it too small? Best wishes, William
  20. 2W
    Just returned today from the RCHotel, where the temperature was 29C, to near freezing London (or so it feels!). What a fantastic, well run, friendly place, with excellent facilities. The accommodation was fine, food was good, and the staff were relaxed, efficient, friendly and all spoke good english. Spiros greets everyone at the door on arrival and works hard to ensure that everything runs smoothly and efficiently. The range of people, as with most flying clubs, came from widely differing backgrounds and mixed well much like any flying club and most to them have returned several times. There were people flying fixed wing, hells and 4 chaps flying mini quads with FPV. There are a wide range of models available to fly (I gave up counting them when I passed 50 planes) from trainers to warbirds and gliders so all tastes are catered for. After a frustrating 2 years of trying to learn to fly (my problem of availability for instruction compounded by the weather last year) Dimitri, with the patience of Job, finally got me to fly solo for the first time on my last flight. Will I go again? Try stopping me! William
  21. 2W
    There's an article by Alex Whittaker with some good pictures about Richard Dalgleish's Fury in this month's RCM&E.
  22. 2W
    Thank you all for your responses. I purchased the Wot 4 as a kit and have a SC52FS engine. But when I finally came to build it, I found the foam veneered wing had a crack in the veneer, so I filled the crack as best I could and glassed the wing to give it more strength. I have found film coverings difficult to apply well onto large surfaces, so In a moment of madness and as an experiment, I chose Valspar emulsion (poor choice!) in mid blue and yellow stripes, so that I would be able to see the model clearly in the sky - my flying abilities are not good. The paint is not very durable, will mark easily, and the plane would look better if it is glossy, not matt. When I researched the use of different fuel proofers on the forum, it seemed to me that Rustins seemed to offer the best choice of effectiveness, so using it will kill two birds with one stone.
  23. 2W
    I want to spray Rustins plastic coating on my Wot 4 to fuel proof it. Can anyone advise what and how much I should use to dilute it (cellulose thinners, Rustins thinners), type of spray gun to use (air brush, touch up spray gun) and air pressures to use? William
  24. 2W
    Good luck Colin! You've got 12 months until the Fury build starts..... Sounds as though you had better stop working and concentrate on the things that matter in life!! William
  25. 2W
    As a Mitchell fan, I'm keen to prick you conscience! How's it going, or is it totally and permanently stalled? William
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