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Mike Rolls

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Everything posted by Mike Rolls

  1. Jon Just the name of a particular type of balance plug. Sadly, there is no universal standard for the damn things. Mike
  2. Jon I should also have said that I've known a number of folks with AWs that flew fine at 6-7lbs all up with a vareity of motors in the 46-60 range. Mike
  3. My electric AW weighs 5 lbs 11 ounces which includes 4 ounces of nose weight  () to get the CG right. My IC version (ST 51) weighed 5 lbs with an empty tank. 8 ounces tank so about 5lb 6 ounces with a full one. Mike
  4. 2 degrees is a slope (accurate enough for our purposes ) of 1/8" in 3", so appropriate packing under a radial mount or similar skewng of a motor mounted between bearers will do the job HTH Mike
  5. In my kit, bought earlier this year, there was an erratum  slip saying the second piece of glass tape was no longer supplied - IIRC it said that it had proved unnecessary. Mike PS - Don't try to use the bandage at the joining stage - join the wings using slow setting epoxy and lots of masking tape or the like to ensure that they stay in register each with th eother. Only add the tape - again slow epoxy - when the joint is cured. Takes longer, but saves much bad language!
  6. Hi Jon On the battery front - my Xppowers are quite slim. I also have a couple of other packs which are heavier - by lucky chance 5 ounces heavier, so a chunk of church roof goes on top of the Xpower pack, attached by Velcro and trapped between the battery and the top decking so that it can't escape and only relies on the Velcro for positioning, not security. That way I can use the heavy or light packs interchangeably. It alsomeans that if/when the Xpowers are time expired, if I can only get heavier packs I don't have the pain of having to dig out permanently fixed weight. Although my motor only weighhs 6 1/2 ounces, it is mounted via a substantial 1/8" ply box which I never thought to weigh, but must be at least 3 ounces ot so. Your hatch is identical to how I did it, -even to the amount of decking left in front!- other than I have the screw at the front, the lip at the back. Cowl fixing - yes, that's how I have done it as well - works fine. Hopefully, I will be able to get some more flying in with it soon. The 'numbers' indicate that it ought to have about the same performance as my ST 51 powered version from some years ago; even the take off weights are very similar, althought he IC version was a few ounces lighter at landing!
  7. With a 6.5 ounce motor and 17 ounce battery, my AW needs 5 ounces of lead immediately behind the firewall toget the CG right. Only had one flight so far, which went fine due to weather etc. not letting me get to the field much. Power train is a 650kV motor spinning a 13x8 at 7,500 on 4S 4800 Xpower pack, pulling 43A. ESC is a 70A item from Giant Cod. My battery hatch in in the top decking from the cowl to just in front of the canopy. Mike
  8. If you can stand the extra weight, why not add a coat of high gloss clear? Mike
  9. Hand starting - no problem with an extension - used them on severla stunters years ago, both 1/2" and 3/4" on Fox 35s and the like Mike
  10. It was on the BBC news - and by coincidence, Jon Simpson, the BBC senior correspondent chap (probably not the correct title) is Cody's great grandson - there was some film of Cody with his family, including Simpson's mother. Mike
  11. Eric Don't worry about it - that is what I had assumed. Mike
  12. One of the Wharfedale boys was at RAF Marham with me when I was doing my National Service. Sadly, I can't remember his name, but he did have magic fingers with an Oliver Tiger! Mike
  13. The Boddo Mills can be ordered from David himself - tel: 01933-226-427 or from John Hook at Flitehook tel: 02380-861-541 for £52 plus P+P HTH Mike
  14. I've half-rolled a stunter. It's quite fun, helps if the model is a nice slow one with not too much line tension and a fair amount of tip weight. Method is to fly with the lines at about 45 degrees with the handle on or very near to your chest, then take a couple of quick paces forward, simultaneously extending the arm. The model will half roll away from you as line tensuion is lost. You then need to step back again smartish to re-establish line tension and control. About 20-25 years ago I entertained the Sandown spectators with this 'trick' using an APS Duchess biplane. Mind you, I wouldn't attempt it wih a model I valued! Eric - why the caps for FIN? Many stunters offset the rudder, not the whole fin. Some have the amount of rudder offset ground adjustable for trimming purposes. Some - for example Al Rabe's lovely semi-scale stunters amongst others, have the rudder linke to the elevator/flap controls to apply varying amounts of offset during manoeuvres. Mike
  15. Dick No - that's fine. I never saw a Monitor with anyhting bigger thana 3.5 up fornt - with a 29 it must have been a case of hang on for dear life! Mike
  16. Dick I always liked the looks of the Babette - I used to fly a Babcock Magician and a Veco Chief in Vintage Stunt in the 80s and early 90s. I did have the plan of the babette at one time but I sold a lot of my old plans at Old Warden a while back. If I remember correctly, there was something about the tank that put me off building one for contest work - was it very small, or oddly located? A model that was vrather similar  to the babette was the Mercury Monitor - built one of those back in RAF days for an AM35 - and had the motor rip out of the front! Never did like the design of the nose! Mike
  17. Like Peter I run Axi 2820/10, 3S packs with Jeti 40-3p and 4 servos - usually HS 85MG - with (fingers crossed etc) no problems in several models. HTH Mike
  18. I use 4mm and (a very few) 2mm for battery connection plus 3.5mm for ESC/brushless Motor connections in anything more powerful than brushed 480 class, with brushed 600s and the like also using 4mm.  I must have soldered a couple of hundred connectors or so, and I have never had the wire simply fall out of the bucket once a satisfactory joint has been made. I have had that happen on first soldering the wire to the connector - but that was poor workmanship on my part. The only subsequnet failures of connectors I have had has been the wire itself fracturing where the solder ends (despite the heatshrink) and if that wire has been subjected to a lot of stress - i.e. where it has to be bent around a lot to make the connection in a cramped installation. Mike
  19. I'm afraid that they haven't been made for years - no idea why. IIRC they were around in the 70s; they were  fairly average units, no better, no worse than the run of the mill at that time. I have never seen any on E-Bay as far as i can remember, but that is my first port of call for selling old engines. OTOH - why not use it? HTH Mike
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