Engine Doctor
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Posts posted by Engine Doctor
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13 hours ago, Andy Stephenson said:
ED, surely that's an AM35 with the pink cylinder head. The 25 had a black cylinder head.
Well spotted all of you 😳. Sorry your correct its a typo fat finger syndrom3 whaterver you call it; although all the bottom ends on the 25 and 35 are the same and can be swapped . That said if anyone does wsap parts between the two make sure they are from the same manufacture . IE the original wont swap over with the later models from Premier.
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Hi Hillclimber . Where did you buy the rods from. There are some on ebay that claim to melt a5 300 deg but actually melt much higher. Ive just repaired am AM 25 crankcase lugwith som 300 deg rods
You can see its a slightly different shade after shaping and bead blasting
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Hi hillclimber. I dont want to teach you to suck eggs but have you used the low temp rods before ? If not make any holes you intend to fill bigger and taper them with a counterdi k or similar. Also make yourself an abraidi g rod from a length of stainless steel . Gr8nd 5he end to a sharp point . When you have filled the hole or tinned the edge as you do when soldering use the rod through the molten metal to scratch through any oxide that formed this way the alloy will fuse with the part and be very strong. Dont heat tye rodor repair area but heat the whole part . 300 deg rods should be safe on proper aluminium . Ive used them on zinc alloy with good results . Some zinc alloy cases do still blister even at 300 deg though .
Good luck and show us your progress.
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Old Kawasaki and Yamaha bikes are definitely classics . Love them or hate them they changed biking IMO for the better . No oil leaks, nothing falls off after a few miles and they start mostly every time.
We know there is a definitve criteria for vintage and veteran vehicles set by the AA/RAC but classic is a bit more vague. DVLA class cars of 40 years old as classics but certain insurance companies will include cars and bikes of 20 -25 years in classic insurance and even give agreed value cover.
Surely any car or bike out of production for ten-20 years or so can be classed as a classic by any group of enthusiasts who keep them on the road ?
I have a 25 year old XK8 and to me its a classic but to many its just an old Jag ,but then I'm an old Jag driver and I'm definitely in the Vintage bracket 🙂.
Why dont organisers of these meets just put a proviso of " any vehicle more than - - years old welcome"
As Geoff says folk who live near these wonderful places hardly ever visit them . Could it be that the drive / journey is all parf of the day out experience ?
Ps re old Jags . Dont buy one unless your handy with the spanners and can weld and paint. Guess how I know 😶?
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That looks like A Pilot kit from the 80's ?
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Read older posts re didgy or fake servos.
The suggestion that an extension lead could be faulty is very valid . Try the servo on a servo tester or plug directly into Rx without the ex lead and compare. Also try it in another Rx output incase Rx channel is at fault. Its just a case of isolating the cause.
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Mine Band saw is about 30 in tall and from memory weighs about 15Kg ish . Not too heavy to lift about. I have taken mine into the garden to cut longer pieces than my workspace allows . Forgot to say that it also has a facility to connect a vacuum to stop saw dust going everywhere although you will have to make up some sort of adapter as it too big for normal vac cleaners
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31 minutes ago, Ace said:
+1 for a bandsaw with a tilting table as ED.
Changed my blade for a 1/4 x 14/16 tpi (std 6-8 tpi !) which I find leaves a clean cut without leaving a fuzz on balsa. Still cuts birch ply quickly. When cutting strip I attach a 1m length of straight planned wood to the fence so feed is absolutely straight as is the follow through. For triangle stock you need to start with an oblong which allows for the blade width which is near as dam it 1/16th. Even cuts trailing edge which I also use as wing rib packers when building which is great for building in washout when placed at an angle. As there is no gauge on the fence I have a selection of accurate Beech lengths that I use to space the blade/fence, this ensures consistency. A quick check in a piece of scrap - adjust as required and away you go.
Chinese for £60 - can't compete. Entry Proxxon - bandsaw out performs for me. Fancy Proxxon at £400 ish (£300 form Germany + import now?) - definitely a bandsaw. Not mine but something like this. That all said if space is at a premium you can't really hump/store a bandsaw under the bench.
That attached saw is very similar to my table top Band saw. Different brands are just a different colour but most likely from same factory in China.
The only things ive had to replace in the 10+ years apart from consumables is a tyre on the top wheel as they can perish . I wouldnt hesitate to buy another .
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Just a reminder to anyone who is thinking of buying a band saw or a rotary table saw : BEWARE they dont take prisoners and can bite. They also continue to rotate for a while when switched off.
Think safety as blood stains the Balsa 😉. Seriously though please take care as even a flourescent light can make the blade apper stationary.
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That milled oval on its side is very familiar but its name wont come to me . Will have alook through the books later although someone on here will undoubtedly know what it is.
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I cut any balsa strip I need from sheet using a table top band saw. Far more versatile than the circular blade saws and IMO just as accurate if kept well fettled and decent blade/band. My current one came fro Axminster tools probably 10 years ago, time fly's,
I use it for all sorts of wood and it goes through birch ply up yo 10mm thick like a hot knife thtough butter. It also has a tilting table, very handy for cutting triangle strip. Blades easily available on ebay
Might be worth a look .
Axminster used to sell Proxxon tools , possible still do but are expensive and have a very limited capacity wheras the
band saw will handle stuff up to 50mm +. Apart from being used constantly for modelling jobs it often gets used for home DIY.
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12 hours ago, toto said:
Repairs ..... hmmmmm .....
Resist I shall try .....
Still awaiting the release of a horizontal stabilisor for an other wise perfect FMS Beaver ...... that's nearly a year now ..... not impressed with the FMS spares availability at all. .... so far a waste of nearly £ 500.00
I still live and hope.
Toto
Make one or repair the original using some carbon spars to strengthen . No point in it jus sitting waiting for an unobtainable part . If the original one failed then its likely a design fault and the reason you cant get a replacement.
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The expanding power of Gorilla glue and similar should not be under estimated. When it first came on the market I used it to laminate some balsa . I applied a very thin coat to the laminations and weighted it down with two dry lead acid batteries to keep it flat. While it was setting i carried on working on the job in hand and suddenly there was a large crash behind me as the expanding glue had raised the batteries enough to slide off the bench !
Brilliant glue for foam to most materials as it creeps into the foam ceĺls and surfaces.
Also found that if mixed well with a tiny ammount of water it will expand even more to fill and strengthen any weak box sections with very little weight penalty.
Some makes seem to foam more than others . Falcon Aviations version was excellent and set very quickly followed by Axminster Tools offering. The current Gorilla does seem to take a little longer to set these days possibly for a better shelf life ?
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Classic , Old timer etc has surely got to be a model thats been out of production for 20 plus years or so ? In the case of VED and cars its 40 years . Many of us modellers must be in the classic or veteran era/bracket 😉 although Mature sound much nicer .
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👍 Never give up .
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Keep going Hillclimber . It can be an uphill struggle at times (sorry about that 😊) but its good to read and see others projects that mirror our own . Ive never made a complete engine but have made all the parts for restoations. Your posts are making my maching fingers itch !
Keep it up . When I started making pistons it was a very frustrating at times but gradually the success rate climbed .
As for your old lathe , dont give up on that either . My lathe is a Myford ML2 model from between the wars I believe and has it own idiocyncrasies due to some wear but a new one is out of the question.
I admire your persistance with the compound slide though , since buying a small milling machine mine never comes out of the draw as its too awkward in use .
Keep going please as us older members of the "oily hand society" are getting fewer .
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To prevent paint lifting from laminating film Im wondering if plastic primer will help. It used as a primer when painting car bumpers . I have some eo worth a try on the next build. The paint I applied to my Elf Biplane seems pretty good but i did use the matt laminating film
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Hi Don the 97 oct fuel like BP ultimate or Shell V power although thry have to be sold as E5 dont contain ethanol .There is a sign on the pumps "suitable for all cars". Its still worth checking though as I believe the ethanol is mixed with the petrol when it deliveredto the prtrol station. Simple test is to mix with water . I still add the lucas fuel protector to my 25 year old car just in case. For my garden petrol tools and plane engines i just buy E5 supermarket with 5% ethanol and remove it with a water mix . I find that all my two stroke and my 4stroke mower run far better without any ethanol and no issues after a winter layup.
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Glass is good but takes longer is messy and on a model like the AcroWot is it really worth it and tgen you have to paint it ? The new cheaper coverings are brilliant and cost effective . I use Rapid RC's covering as its a fraction of the cost of Oracover and miles ahead of the coverings offered by ripmax etc.
Its your choice so do what you enjoy most.
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Thats a pity Hillclimber. I was looking forward t9 seeing it run . Are the transfer ports opening ok ie piston not too high or low ? Is cranckcase compression ok as this is more important than cylinder compressìon on a two stroke ? If crankcase comp is poor then you will only get a pop now and again.
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4 hours ago, Dai Fledermaus said:
I should have added that in hindsight, the signs of a possible battery failure were there. The stop start system had developed a mind of its own in that sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. Winter driving with the lights and wipers and heated rear screen probably finished it off.
Also, I've learned that in the case of a new AGM battery where re coding is necessary, the car's ECU doesn't actually do anything with that new information other than to reset the battery's charging profile. It doesn't cross reference that information with anything for example. You could just change a few digits of the existing code to effect the reset.
Dependingon what car you have the ECU usually doesnt regulate the charging. Its the BCM (Battery Control Module) that needs resetting . Some cars can be reset by pressing certain buttons but other need a OBD reset tool often combined within a code reader. Not a lot of money these days and after a couple of uses for code reading etc they pay for themselves as garages often charge an hours labour to plug it in and read any codes. The engine light or mill light is often refered to as an idiot lighf by some mechanics. Halfords charge £27 for fit and reset i believe !
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For low use or hobby cars or cars on a SORN a maintenance / trickle charger is a good investment. Dont forget nealy all cars from the 80s onwards had a an alarm or built in computer that draws a few mah that will drian and damage a car battery after a few weeks . I have a trickle maintenance charger in my hobby car , costs around £20 uses hardly any power and keeps car battery healthy and ready to go and far cheaper than replacing battery.
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Could you not mount engine on its side ? Picture of model would help .
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Could the problem not be simply overcome by flying with the karts behind your flightline and a suitable distance between them and you creating a NFZ ? Obviously not being able to see the site there may be other obstacles .
My Atom Minor build
in IC Engines
Posted
Were they Chinese or from a uk supplier in Chatham, kent. What name is on them ?