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Engine Doctor

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Posts posted by Engine Doctor

  1. Medway MFC has vacancies for Fixed wing flyers . They fly at Iwade near Sittingbourne in kent . 7 days a week  10an to 7pm . Experienced members available to assist novices on buddy lead . All ages welcome . For further details please PM me.

    Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 29/08/2009 10:50:58

  2. Hi James .Steve hargreaves is spot on with his advice . I have a Magnum 160 (they are all the same . It definately needs the onboard glow .They run very smoothly ,but make sure you buy one with good compression on BOTH cylinders . Mine had poor comp on on cylinder due to a poor cyl head and had to be replaced under warranty . Mine was fitted to an 80inch clipped wing cub and flew very well sounded and great  tick over is superb and slow with the o/b glow . Hope it helps .
  3. Hello Brownie. I had a similar problem with a os 26 F/S a couple of months ago . Bought at a swapmeet it seemed s sweet little engine but like yours , the mixture couldn't be weakened sufficiently to idle. The needle just wasn't seating and I believe it was from a different engine .so check if the needle is damaged or is the correct part first . As a new carb would have cost more than the price paid for the engine I decided to modify the carb . It was a very simple fix and took about ten minutes. Remove the carb from the engine andthen remove the fuel jet (the bit that the needle screws into) . Now care fully remove some of the threaded section where the needle screws in witha small grinding dish on a dremel . Be careful not o remove too much . Now fit a lenght of silicone tubing over the jet end and screw the needle into the jet , while blowing down the tube until you can shut off the air supply .You may have to repeat the grinding process a couple of time . Once the needle can screw in far enough to shut of the air flow the job is done . Reasemble after thoroughly whashing the parts in some fuel and you will be able to tune the motor for a good tick over . hope this helps .
  4. Sounds to me like the bottom end is a bit too rich and a puddle is forming in the crank case . All glow  engines will do exactly the same until they are fully run in and correctly adjusted .Try closing the slow running mixture screw about 1/8 th of a turn and try again . It may take a few attempts but it should solve the problem .
    Regards
     
    E.D.
  5. Hello Scott. Dont bother with a gasket as it will keep compressing and allow the muffler to come loose or even fall Off. Use a thin bead of epoxy but make sure the theads on the bolts are oiled. It makes an oil tight joint that wont come undone until you want it to. It also allows more heat to disipate into the muffler casing unlike a gasket that is an insulator . When yu want to remove the muffler , remove the screws and give the muffler a sharp tap. Always remove any old epoxy before refitting .
     
    Regards
     
    E.D.
  6. Medway MFC invite you to a Modelling Swapmeet /car boot sale  on Saturday 6th June  .From 9am to 2 pm at their Stickfast lane flying site near Iwade ,Sittingbourne ,Kent . Sell anthing legal , Modelling items prefered. Planes Helis, Boats ,cars tools books etc . NO FLYING during the swapmeet but a fly-in afterwards. BMFA insurance required . All profits will go to our club charity  "The Kent Air Ambulance" for more information  or directions call Phil on 01795-476535 . Colin on 01634-317187 , Neville on 01795-877918 .visit our website at : www.medwaymfc.co.uk
  7. Hi John . Why not make up a dummy nose section and have a practice ? It wouldn't take long to fabricate a replica nose out of some scrap and you wouldn't risk damageing you model . I have used epoxy and glass no problem but I don't know how poly C reacts with the glass cloth or how quickly it becomes sticky .
     
    E.D
  8. Hello Gareth . You can get 3.5mm screws quite easily from engineers suppliers . I believe you can also get them from screwfix but they have a counter sunk head as they are supplied for use in electrical switches etc
  9. Hello Widget. I have an old Enya 60 FS that had similar characteristics and would then backfire and throw the prop .I finally cured it by fitting a Taylor short reach idle bar glow plug . it is now a really great engine to run. Worth a try but you may have a problem obtaining said glow plug. Try reducing the comprssion by adding a couple of copper washers under the glowplug .Have you experimented with different fuel ? I now run all my engines with a reduced oil content as 20% is IMO to much so have reduced it to 17.5% synthetic. Also the extra methanol gives better running .Southern model craft supply the fuel mixed to your requirement and Dave ,who is very knowlogable will advise. Other thing to check is that the air bleed hole for slow running is not blocked with old castor oil (one of the reasons I dont use it) Castor can set like a soft varnish and effectivly reduce or close off the air bleed and cause a rich bottom end setting as you describe. The air bleed screw is visible through the hole and should be approximately half way across the hole to begin with . Screw tthe slow running screw in to richen and out to weaken the mixture. allow to idle for a bout ten seconds between adjust ments and only make very small adjustments each time.
    Hope this is of some help .
    E.D.
    p.s.Steve Webb models keep spares for Old Enyas and are very helpful.
  10. Hello all . Glad its not just me ! I thought somthing may have gotten into the system ?
    I'm glad they are trying to stop the Scammers as they are a real pain . Hopefully a small update on the BMFA homepage will appear . Keep up the good work BMFA .
    Regards
     
    E.D.
  11. Hello Steve ,have you tried Googling Dave Boddington ? That may giveyou a contact . I recently read about his engine either in the RCM&E or the BMFA news and I believe a contact number / address was given . You could also give Flight Hook a call ( cant find their number just now ) they supplied some fantastic smal diesels and may be able to help .
    Regards
    E.D
  12.  Hi all . Is anyone else having trouble getting onto the BMFA classifieds  ?  For a couple of days I keep getting " error check data base settings" every time I try to log on .
    Regards
    E.D
  13. Hi Frank . Auto trans fluid is ok for after run oil . I now use a product from weston UK called Vapour Oil . Put a few drops in the carb , flick a couple of times and the oil will creep and protect the whole inards of the engine . Cost is about a fiver a bottle but I can recomend it .  It really is good for long lay ups or storage and wont gum up like trans fluid .warning ! if you get it on you hands DONT touch your mouth or eyes as it stings ! Guess how I know ?
  14.  
    Hello Barrie . The SC rear mounted needle valve can be easily converted to fit most engines. As most chinese engines are very near copies of OS they are all very similar dimensions and slight elongation of the mounting holes on the needle valve mounting bracket allows you to fit to most engines. I fitted a rear needle valve to an OS 60 FP a couple of weeks ago  Took a couple of minutes and cost about a fiver for the part as I already had a needle .(I bought a bracket for a Magum 60 ) The rear mounting bracket from ASP SC or magnum are quite cheap and easy to obtain. The JEN engine range are possibly from the same source so Just engines may be a good source for the Parts.The original needle valve on the FP carb was broken so I just soldered over the end of the broken thread allowing a clear passage for fuel to enter the carb.
    Hope it Helps
     
    E.D
     
  15. Hello Tom, While your putting the tank together I would suggest that you change the brass tubing for aluminium tubing,available from your model shop. Reason: The nitro methane in our fuel attacks the copper contents in the brass leaving  the zinc and causes brittle  and porous pipes. This doesn't happen over night but one season and you could have unexplained dead stick landings to cope with. The brass tube supplied probably comes from China and I believe the copper content is already low as I have sorted many models at our club over the last couple of years with this problem . Also the fit pipes as suggeted in earlier post but bend the fill and drain pipe so that it goes to the bottom or along a bottom corner of the tank . You can then empty your tank easily after a flying session without having to turn the model upsisde down . The brass tubing you have left will always come in handy for somthing .
     
    Good luck and happy landings
     
    E.D.
  16. Hi Chris . Dont leave your engine with neat fuel in it as this will cause more corrosion as it absorbs moisture from the air. Once feed up and run empty the tank after every session and  with the drops left in the tank run motor until hot  then allow to run out the fuel so leaving the engine dry. Once home put some oil in the carb and flick over engine . This will make you engine last and stop /cut down any corrosion from air moisture .
     E.D.
  17. A hydralic lock will lock any engine enough to remove the most stubborn nut. Just remove glow plug turn engine to the bottom of its compression stroke and fill the cylinder with engine oil . Replace plug and undo nut . itsabit messy but wont damage your engine like puting wood etc the the plug hole . The article in rcme about a piston stop tool is great for two strokes if the plug screws down vertically onto the piston but F/S plugs usually screw in at an angle to the piston and any tool screwed into the plug thread to stop the piston will seriusly damage the engine. Glad you mamaged to undo it . make sure the shaft is clean then lightly oil the thread before fitting a new prop.
    E.D.
  18. Hi john  .You can modify the head to take an ordiary plug but there isn't much material to play with . and you wil probably need an old cox cylinder to hold the head in a lathe so as not to damage the very fine thread. I made one some time ago and it ran ok but I think its worth paying the extra for a proper head.
    E.D.
  19. Hello Nick . If you cant find an original then give Weston uk a call 01795-522020. They can make you a throttle pipe that will transform your MVVS and it will be a lot quieter .
    Its apity that MVVS dont seem to have a distributor in the |UK anymore. Are they still producing small glows ? anyone .
     
    E.D.
  20. Well now its totally off post  not a sking term , lets set stuart right. If your model creeps forward even at tick over them you simply have too much thrust .Simple. To remedy simply reduce thrust by fiting a lower pitch prop or slowing the engine . The slow running needle  is for mixture control not engine speed control  .
     
    E.D.
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