Engine Doctor
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Posts posted by Engine Doctor
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Hi I bought a Black Horse Ultimate at the Hop Farm Bring and buy this weekend. Bargain ! £60 with two didital servos, a Futaba 9255 and a spectrum digital and two Hitec 645 MG ! Has anyone tried to lighten the back end by changing the heavy metal push rods and tail plane supports ? Even with a 120 FS it seems tail heavy. Has anyone flown one with a 120 FS up front ,how does it go ?
Regards
E.D
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Hi Lee. I haven't seen the YS45 fs but have used the 63fs for some time now . They are fabulous! but do like at least 20% nitro fuel.
Tank wise you need a good quality tank capable of taking the 10 to 12 psi they are capable of producing .Pro-build do a really good quality tank that will handle the pressure.I believe they are made by MK . The pipes are just pushed on and the have a small wire clip over them for extra sequrity. Some of the tanks available in local shops just arn't up to a YS . What cap 232 are you fitting it in ?
Regards
ED -
Hi Adam .I have three petrol jobs A Zenoah 45,a CCRP (Jamara)45cc and a Mckay 30cc the Zenoah has a new style Zenoah muffler which I have modified the outlet a little. That motor is very quite apart from the inlet roar. The CCRP is a very powerful motor but agian has a loud induction roar. The Mckay is in a different class and was designed for model aircraft use .This is fitted with an incowl silencer (Krumshfeld I think) supplied by stuart Mckay and is very quiet on a 20 x 6 prop; that pulled a 15 1/2 lb Cap232 vertical without excessive noise. Most of the port induction motors I have owned have had a very loud induction roar and need the air to be drawn from an air box . Another thing worth thinking about,if your using 35 mHz radio, is setting up you radio gear with a ppm reciever and doing a range check ,with engine running ,to check for and eliminate interference from the ignition circuit. Do not fly with this set up.Only when satisfied fit a good pcm with failsafe .If interference persist then try fitting an opto-isolator between your Rx and servos .Apperently ,so I am told the servo leads can act as aerials and pick up interference .Thhe opto-isolators are available from SM services and not expensive .One last thing ,all my petrol engines have taken a lot of running in.Unlike model glow motors ,petrol engines can take hours hours and get better and better . Hope it helps
Regards -
Hi Stephen.Acro-wot is a great flyer.I am building one at the moment fo a club mate.The problems with split and lifting veneer on the wings is common,it seems , with current Chris Foss kits.Inspect your kit at the shop before purchase . Also replace the light-ply fire wall backing with proper birch ply if using anything more powerfui than a 46. Overall , a good flying model with no vices 10/10 .kit is let down by skimping on some materials 6/10
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Hi Edward.I believe solarfilm is now available in matt finish
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Hi Peter you say you motor was laid up for a few years. Is it still in the original air craft ? or are you using your old fuel tank? The nitro methane used in model fuel attacks copper. The brass fuel pipes contain copper and the fuel eats this away leaving a very brittle and perforated pipes. This Could be the cause of your problem with eratic running .If you use fuel with any Nitro content ,change the tubing inthe tank to aluminium. A club mate had similar problems and when I checked the tank all the pipes were totally roten.
Regards
Phil -
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Hi john Have a look in the gallery section .I posted a picture of my complete motor some time ago .It Is rare compared to the Comp special which it is based on. Unfortunately no parts are interchangeable other than the prop driver and spinner.Replica tanks and tank mounts are available .
Regards -
Yes a nicad/NiMh pack is available for your TX Most good model shops will be able to order yo one or even make a pack up for you. Overlander batteries or Weston uk will definately be able to help you.
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Join a club ! is the best advice I can give . A lot of new flyers have come to our club and told us how they have tried it on their own and smsashed up models , most, luckily without any serious accidents. A club will help yopu not only with the flying side but with all the knowledge you will need to set up your own model in the future . Good luck
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Hi Peter. Nasa is correct Poly-C is an alternative to epoxy resin for glass covering of sheeted structures.I havn't heard of it being used on open structures though . Dope is the best shrinking medium for open structures ,and probably a lot lighter.
E.D -
Hi Bill .As far as i'm aware the Lowboy is no longer available. Why not try a free add in RCM&E or even on this forum . You could also try a wanted add on the BMFA classified section ,its free and thousands of modeller look at the adds. Good luck.
E.D. -
Hi Graham I have flown the DeAgostini Spitfire.I was asked to test fly one for a new member to our club.The model is really quite nice to fly ,but definately not for a beginner ! In the air it didn't seem to have any nasty habits and the stall was just a gentle mush.One critisism was that the Aileron torque rods being very long are twisty and suffer badly from blowback,making rolls very slow.I didn't experience any flutter mentioned in another post but this could just have been luck.It suffers the usual nosing over problems on take off and landing that this type of model attract. The model had been well made,by a novice flyer and completed with the radio and engine supplied by DeAgostini.Overaul the model flew very well and with a little tweeking will make a reasonable first low winger. The owner has bee advised to take the radio and engine out and intall it in a trainer type and save the Spitfire for later.Another club member is currently building one .I have advised him to fit a servo on each aileron to sharpen the roll response.As memtioned earlier you really will need some help with your first flights as it is totally diferent to a trainer.
E.D -
Hi David your right that No artf model can compere with the Wot 4 for durability and ruggedness .Hopefully Chriss foss will take these comments on board and remedy the fault that seem to be creeping in.
E.D -
Hi David . I agree that cutting ,sanding and shapeing with lots of sawdust and mess IS what building planes like the wot 4 is all about. But poor quality is not acceptable especially when a newcomer can buy an ARTF far cheaper than a wot 4 kit.
Regards
ED -
Just for the record what were the kit parts on David Ashby's kit like? If David reads this can you comment ? I really enjoy building models ,but so many kits manufactures thought they could put rubbish in the boxes that we now have an ARTF dominated market. As I said earlier I really enjoy building and if i come across a rubbish bit I have the equipment and time to make another part .If the comments on Foss kits in this thread are anything to go by then Chriss foss kits will surely go the same way as others.what a pity!!!
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Hi Danny .Give the center section a thin coat of Clearcoat .Its made by solafilm and is a heat sensitive laquer. Leave to dry overnight before applying your covering . assoon as heat is applied it will stick like the proverbial to a blanket. It is an excellent fuel proofer that stops glow fuel dead.
rgards
E.D -
Hi Danny ,Has the veneer on you Wot 4 wings split? I a previous post I wrote about the quality of the veneer on the Foss range of kits . Since then I dug out a Phase 6 I have had tucked away for a few years and guess what ? The veneer is perfect .This model is probably 15 yrs old and has no cracks in the veneer .The question is "Why do the new kits wing veneer split?" Perhaps Mr Foss could answer this .An explanation would be appreciated.
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Hi Andy .I belive Steve Dorling refers to prosynth 2000 in his articles which westons assure me as no castor content.Ihave used Prosynth in the past and it is very good.I have been using Southern Model craft synthetic fuel for some years now and have found it to be excellent. For the past two years I have asked for a lower oil content. Dave at southen Modelcraft has mixed me fuel with 17% oil instead of 20%. I use this on both 2 and 4 strokes .The 2 strokes are fitted with Weston throttle pipe and my 4 strokes include YS motors one of wich has been thrashed onthis fuel for about two and a half years now and is still excellent with the original bearings.
Regards
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Hi all .Does anyone know if the Futaba "Midnight Tranfer" decals are still available ? I have been on the Ripmax website and can only find the usual rubbish decals ,and my local model shops dont appear interested in finding out.
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I have to agree with Brian cooper That you get what you pay for . I used two of these cheap "High torque Metal geared" servos for aileron on a Eurobat .They were very noisy and very powerful but when used on a y lead one would allways work OK and the other would always flap around like a bird when trying to centre.Lesson learn't they were thrown into spares/bits box.
Phil -
Hi Goe I have the Flair 72" spitfire and apart from a standard high torque on the elevatorand retract servo for U/c all the rest are good old futaba 3001 . Power is OS 120 and they seem perfectly adequate.
Regards -
Good idea!
Flair "Scout Series"
Replikits
Ben Buckle
Top Flight
If Pica kits are still available dont bother .IMO they are very poor !
thats all I can think of at the moment. -
Hi Roger I am glad I wasn't the only one to have had problems wth the veneer. I have looked at Chris foss' web site but it doesn't seem to have e-mail contact .I still like the Foss hanger and wonder wether he would supply kits with balsa covered wings . He might even pick up on this forum ! .I tried using thinned non shrinking dope . This seemed to slow the process down for a while . I'll try the clear coat method on the next build. As said in earlier posts,it doesn't seem to affect the performance or strenght ,it just looks Rubbish .
Clean I/C models
in Modelling Money Savers...
Posted
Hi Look out at super markets and at Halfords for Windscreen de-icer .usually sold in spray bottles. They quite often sell them as bogof deals at this time of year . They contain alcohol that cleans away exhaust residue really well leaving your model clean and shiny and it doesnt attack the covering adhesive.
E.D.