David Ovenden

Myron, Seriously, I usually use a scrap piece of thin ali sheet (litho plate or foil meat tray) to act as the spacer and heat protector. What you really need is a high wattage soldering iron (I use an ancient Solon 125 watt) to get lots of heat to the joint quickly. This heat the piano wire quickly, where you need it, and makes the joint without having the iron in proximity to the wheel for any longer than neccessary. This I think also amswers (in part) the original question. A very hot iron that heats the wire locally, and briefly, will make a good soldered joint without affecting the metalurgy all that much. Blowtorches are a different matter maybe. David

Myron, Why not use a thin slice of potato coated in cooking oil. Not only will you protect your wheels but have a couple of crisps to snack on after you finish soldering!

Well my "one day" models include: Curtis Condor (twin engine biplane ailiner) Large Douglas Dauntless SBD5 1/4 scale Hawker Tomtit

I'm interested the Gloster Gladiator plan featured in RC Scale Quarterly ages ago. It's plan RSQ1770. The Magicalia website list it as Gloster Gladiator Designer: D Murray. Wingspan: 1873mm Engine Size: 0.35 R/C Functions: 7 Obviously a .35 cu in engine won't be suitable for a 74" span Gladiator! Maybe it's 35cc? Anyone any experience of the plan or the model - or got a copy of that issue of RCSQ? Thanks David

What about a Douglas SBD Dauntless? Has "warbird" appeal but loads of wing area and docile flying characteristics with wing slots. It has a large radial cowl to hide the engine and you can add flaps, retracts, dive brakes and even bomb dropping. There are 2 kits available Anglia Models (the old CAP kit) and a smaller one from Skyshark in the US. There are also plans available in at least 3 sizes 69", 85", and 100". Or perhaps Tony Nijhuis could design something new for the mag?