G-JIMG
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Hi Chris, I haven't made much progress lately - life keeps getting in the way! Hope to get back into the workshop later this week. Jim.
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The vertical tail assembly is now fixed firmly in place, as is the dorsal fin. The horizontal tail assembly is loosely taped in place to ensure everything lines up before I connect the elevator snake and the wiring for the lights. To give some idea of scale, the ruler is 13" end to end. Jim.
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No new pictures I'm afraid, I'm still covering the fuselage and installing the T tail. However, I have weighed the, nearly complete, model and it turns out my pre-build estimate of 14lb was wildly inaccurate. The model will actually come in at under 9lb. A wing loading of around 45 is still high, but manageable for scale flight. Jim.
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Made a 3D print of a King Air Engine Cowling, that I then used to make a mold for production of the final fibre glass part. Jim.
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Chris, Thanks, I get it now. Didn't realise you could grant public access to the album. Jim.
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It's been a while since I posted anything on the build, life has started getting in the way again! Fortunately for me the real aircraft has covers over the cabin windows. This means I do not have to model the cabin internals, but I did need swmbo to make up some grey 'quilted' cloth. She did an excellent job, although she now stipulates that it means she made the model! I've also spent some time installing the Grilles I made earlier into the nose. It looks a bit rough at the moment but a coat of paint will work wonders. I've also been making the Engine Oil Cooler pods for under the nacelles. They were made in the same way as earlier moldings. Balsa male mold > silicon female mold > fibre glass part. Once the front and backs have been cut out they will be secured under the nacelles over a hole that will provide an additional exit for cooling air entering through the front scoop. Jim.
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Hi Chris, Dwain asked the same question. All of the pictures are still in my album but for some reason the early photos no longer appear in the thread. Given that I can't edit any of the entries to reattach the pictures, I don't think I can do anything about it. Jim.
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Hi Dwain, The earlier pictures are still in my album. I assume that I must have somehow moved them at some point, though I don't know how. Jim.
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The real Cockpit has a split windscreen to the front and two small windows to each side. Consequently the cockpit internals are not as visible as they would be on an aircraft with a bubble canopy. Even so, I have expended a little time and effort to give the impression of a King Air cockpit, although I haven't gone to the lengths of making 3D instruments. The pilot is a 1/10th scale combat figure with the majority of the internal plastic removed. The only changes I had to make were to overpaint the US flag on his shoulder and manufacture a headset for him. Jim.
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Robin, ESC cooling - The intake air passes over the ESC before exiting through the hole in the underside of the nacelle (that area has since been cut away). Additionally, further back in the nacelle, there is an underslung oil cooler. I will use this to disguise another 1"x3/4" opening. As for the battery, the cradle will have additional slots cut into it (also helps with weight). The cover replicates the under-fuselage pod on the real aircraft. This has panels installed at the front and sides which, on the model, will simply be rectangular holes. The cover is slightly raised at the rear, leaving a large slot for the air to escape. Thanks again for the advice, nice to have input from someone who has been there/done that. Jim.
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The build is slowly progressing. I have installed the wing mounts and mounting nuts in the fuselage and everything lines up perfectly. I am now covering the fuselage but haven't taken any pictures. I figured you all know what balsa sheeting/planking looks like . The real aircraft has lights mounted on the Nose Wheel. The lighting kit I'm installing doesn't have enough outputs to install real lights, so I have made some dummy lights for effect. I habitually keep anything that might be of use for modelling and realised the tips of plug protectors were the perfect size for the lamp housings. I cut the tips off the power pin protectors, sprayed the inside with chrome paint, the outside with white paint and glued some acetate to the front face. I made the support from some Litho Plate and glued the lamps to it. The assembly will eventually wrap around the Nose Leg and be clamped in place by a M2 bolt/nut. Not perfect but the overall effect should be OK from a distance. Jim.
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Hi Robin, If you look at the head on picture further up this page you'll notice there is an Air Intake at the bottom of each nacelle. The ESCs (and UBECs) sit directly in line with those intakes, so should have more than enough cooling. Jim.
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Thanks for the Links Timo. Robin, Thanks for your concern. The estimated AUW was 15lb, but it appears the final build will be nearer to 14lb. As this was my first excursion into electric flight I passed the details (wing area, AUW, etc.) to George at 4-Max for his advice. He came up with a suggested Batt/ESC/Motor combination but, to make sure, I sent him one of the 4-bladed props and he conducted a series of bench tests for me. Test results show the power train is fine. Jim.
