Giuseppe Saroli

Look good to me Cuban8 all the best on you first flight

After my winter Build my Hanger is full for this year flying Also My Savage Trainer going trough is test flying at moment Same as my Savage Bobber but a bit smaller with a OS 26FS So far so good, and a 80% Attila nearing completion Picture to follow. that's it no more building for me till next winter is just Fly Fly Fly and not to much repairs What are you Ladies and Gentleman been up to this winter and what are you going to Fly this season lets see them.

I am interested to learn too is this one any good to start with at this price ? **LINK**

One life and we love it as we were born to fly

I don't know what to say **LINK**

Thanks S.T. You do what you can to the best of you capability practice make perfect but nothing is perfect, best of all from idea, design. build and to fly you creation is the most rewarding buzz I get. All I want to do is reach for the sky. Regards

After my big Bobber I decided to go for a 62" version of it, build as the big brother all carbon but more manageable power is from a O.S. 26 FS with flaps and some minor mod so far so good I am anticipating a total AUW of 1.4kg No long for is maiden flight more pictures to came. I called it the Savage Trainer. More to follow

Also will I get away by using the exhaust pipe with out the silencer witch has a nipple to pressurize the tank I bit like my old os 120 Gemini with as only the short exhaust pipes and still run ok! Thanks again

Thanks Ken and Peter now I know I wonder why is not mention in the os manual!

Hi all the question is, can you mount a os 26 fs or any other one for that matter sideways or inverted and what do you do with a breeder pipe! there is no reference in the os manual about this Thanks in advance Giuseppe

I just find out that the orange 3 axis gyro v2 is not compatible with hitec aurora 6 radio system shame I now got one and I can use it

Here buddy **LINK** Regards

Good morning all and thanks for all you feed back The discovery of the original Cleveland Viking polyhedral wind was when I come across Tandy model site he has build the half size of it that's different on mine because I am doing the full size plus extra rib on inner wing that is 18" inner 16" outer I am not looking for perfection just a easy build Anyway my wings are going to be in 2 pieces so last night I joined the inner panel one flat on board and prop up the other at 3" which we new, when dry I prop up 1.1/2" under each inner wings tips and temporally attached the outer wings panels to make 5" as per original picture that I posted, and made a note on a reference stick , then I put the right inner panel flat on board with right wing outer panel still attached with pegs and the measurement show me to be approx. 2.1/2" Tonight I will double check before I do the ply brace and report back with more accurate measurement but it seem very close to 2.1/2" how it came up to this is too much for me to comprehend , 2.1/2" +1.1/2"=4"not 5" maybe is to do with the wing span but on the building board is showing me 5" when assembled as per plan, locks like ED is almost spot but he dint know my wing span and the measurement of inner and outer panels Thanks one again Regards Giuseppe

Ok tonight I will do it the hard way and prop it up temporally and see if I can come up with something and report on Monday thanks a lot guys Regards

So is 2" then! if I lay centre panel flat on the board and prop up the wing tip to 2"(2 + 3 =5) I am confused

but if i put say the inner right panel flat on the board should the outer panel be set at 3.1/2" or 2" !

Thanks Dave

Hi all I am replacing the wings on my Astro Viking because I found the original plan1942 I think of the original Cleveland Viking had a polyhedral configuration on the plan it shows the wing centre panel not flat and with a 1.1/2" inner panels and 5" outer panel For easy build I am right to say that if i put the left inner panel flat on board I need to double up the right inner panel to 3" and there for the tip panel would be 6.1/2 ! And if I put the right inner panel flat on the board the wing tip need to be 3.1/2"! I hope I am making sense here math was never my best subject Thanks in advance

Here some of mine

Help please I got a the 3 axis v2 and tested on my futaba f6 35 MHz and it works perfect no problem but on my hitech 2.4 gz radio I am only getting the gyro to work that is when I move/shake the the 3 axis module all 3 servos work accordingly but I have no response on the sticks even with aux switch off basically I have no control of it hope I have explained properly am I doing something wrong or is my hitech not compatible with it Thanks in advance

Here a couple of mine flew the Viking yesterday what a floater

Thanks Sparks that's exactly what I want to do may a ask you the total weight of your is My set up would be a 340wats motor 2200 3 cell lipo and 10x8 prop because this is what I got and solarfilm cover what do you thing If 9" is good for you then 92 will be. Great looking plane may I say

I just want to cruse around on lazy calm /slight wind days not interest in performance more like duration

Hi good people I am building the astro Viking 62" and I was wondering if I can reduce the dihedral from 10" to maybe 8" the plane is a 3 channel old timer I have flown some planes in the past on just 5" dihedral and the controls seems to be ok So will I get away with 8" or less? or best to stick to the original 10" Thanks in advance

Here is my Lambretta 48 Series 1 circa 1959 fully restored and for sale too for £2500 Motor: 47,75 cc 2 times 40×38 milimeter Power and regimen: 1,7CV to 5.000 Rpm Compression ratio: 1:6,5 Head and cylinder: in aluminum and cast iron Cooling: Air Ignition: Magneto Alternator Advance: 28°-30° 2,7-3mm before the top dead center Points Gap: 0,35-0,45 mm Carburetor: T5-11S later on T4-12S Carburation: Jet max 62 valv. 50/T4-12S/getto max 60 valve 50 Starter: Pedals Oil change: Mobil Oil 400ml Mixture: 5% Clutch: 2 Discs in oil bath Gear: 2 Speeds Primary transmission: Gears Secondary transmission: Chain Chassis and step: Pressed steel sheet 1,187mm Front Suspension: Spring Rear Suspension: Spring loaded Dumper Wheels: Beams Spoke Tires: 2×22 Pirelli or Ceat Pressure Tires:Front. 1,5 atm -Rear. 2,5 atm Before the restoration Brakes: Drum (Front and Back) Dry weight: 44Kg Consumption: 1 liter x 80 Km Tanck: 2,7 liters Maximum speed: 50-55 Km/h Electrical System: 6 Volt magneto Sparck Plug: 240 Bosh scale short thread List price: 76,000 Liras(Circa 1957) Lambretta 48 was the first and only moped with high wheels produced by Innocenti. In 1954 the prototype was introduced at Motosalone show in Milan, but the production of this model only started at the beginnings of autumn 1955. . In order to keep the production costs down all of the frame was done in pressed steel sheet. The Lambretta 48 can continue to run with the pedals by pulling the lever wich desingages the motor. It will be able to continue by easily pedaling just like if you were on a normal bicycle. During the 6 years of production it was offered in 3 color: “Red Pompei”, “Lambro Grey”, and in varying the clearer” Grey Chain plate”. It received various improvements wich after 1960 the 2 series was made. The great achiviment of Lambretta 48 was on the circuit of Monza, the Innocenti prepared a test in order to demonstrate the great realibylity and resistance of the motor. The test was the unterrupted ride for 100 hours on a distance estimated of approximately 6.000 km. For the Test the Lambretta 48 had mounted a extra tank and extra saddle on the back Rack for 2 different riding positions, 7 tests pilot where used to complete the 4433 turns of the fast ring of Monza to record the realibility/performance and easy maintenace of the Lambretta 48. Innocenti made 63,223 Lambretta 48 and remained in production for 6 years. During the 1960 it was very popular with Priest and was affectionaly called (Il Lambrettino del Prete), and today there are only a few in existence especialy in U.K as the were never imported here. . This Lambretta 48 took 1 year to restore and should be in a Museum!