daniel barton

my suggestion is to turn the high end needle in 1/4 turn, that ahould sort out the idle for you

hi again, this is the setup that im thinking of (after researching it) and im wondering what you all think Irvine tutor 40 mk2 ARTF = £70 os max 46la-s silv. W/E3030si = £68 master 11"x8" G3 Gf prop = £3.15 irvine spinner (not sure of the size yet but going for either a red or carbon fibre effect) = £5-20 HiTec HS422 deuxe standard servos x4 = £8.50 each = £34 total so what do you all think of this setup

thanx for the advice simon, a 46 is what i was thinking tbh, im wondering if anyone could specify a specific irvine 46 as there seems to be quite a few different makes under the irvine name

ok thanx dean, the reason why i asked which irvine engine to use is becoz im struggling to rotate with my hi boy precedent with an os40fp so my convidence with 40 sized engines is slacking atm

hi all, im gunna be getting an irvine tutor 40 mk2 ARTF and im wondering what irvine engine to put in it, bearing in mind that this wont be a straight build as i intend on taking my time to get the thing and all the parts first before i start on it. also anyone has any ideas as to what servos i should put in it as ill be matching them all, also as a referrence, ill be using a spektrum dx7 transmitter

the manifold on the right side of the original pic is a os manifold as its an exact match to the 1 i have on my os40fp, just thought id let you know this

well i aint sure how i done it tbh, but i will explain as best as i can. firstly i set the high end needle back to factory by screwing it fully in and then 4 turns out (3 to get her started) then with the low end needle, i simply screwed it fully in and 1 and a half turns out (ill explain the setting further later on.) then as i blew as hard as i could on the exhaust pipe and filled up the carb (i know your all thinking that i flooded the carb, but ironically this really did help) with my finger over the carb, i gently turned the prop 3 times and also held the prop on the vacuum point ( where u can here fuel being drawn into the engine) for a few seconds. then i connected the glow starter and flicked the prop twice, she tried to fire at this point but couldnt quite start so i unscrewed the low end needle by 1/8th turn at a time, then spin the prop another few times and if she didnt fire, then id do another turn, at 2 and a half turns, i stopped with the low end needle and started on the top end as follows: with the setting set at 4 turns out, i turned the needle (1/4 turn at a time) in and finally at 3 turns in, the engine fired up and started nicely and now all i have to do is tweek the needles to find the optimum running point, but i have to do some servo adjustments before this anyway as i cant open the throttle fully atm.

this might be a long shot, but as i live by the coast, the cold constantly has a hand in my engine troubles and this is what i do to cure this: i get a teatowel (an old 1 at that) and a a bowl of freshly boiled kettle water. put the towel into the water for about 5 mins so that it absorbs the water within the bowl, then take it out and wring the towel of all excess water so that ur only left with a warm damp towel. making sure that your carb is closed (just incase of water drops into the carb), place or wrap the towel around the cylinder head for a good 10 minutes. as the towel warms up the cylinder head, it also warms up the fuel inside the engine (if any) and will make starting alot easier, just make sure that you have you glow starter to hand so that when you remove the towel, you can put the glow starter on straight away and start the engine. just alittle note on the bubbles, i had the same problem with my os40fp and what was causing it was a blow back of the engine caused by a partailly blocked carb causing air to be pushed back into the fuel tank, so try removing your carb and give it abit of a clean. also are you hand flicking or using a starter, as it seems that flicking an engine over by hand can also cause this (again from experience) as we cant spin the prop quick enough. try those and let me know how it goes

finally got the thing started and running, its alil off its optimum atm but im getting there and with alittle more tweeking, it will be as sweet as a nut thanks all

its not easy to describe tbh, basically i cant get it to its optiimum running and the prop size comes from: **LINK**

hi yh sorry they do have a website which ill link later on in this post. there run by a charity that helps disabled sailers get back on the water and run sailing trips for them, infact the guy who runs the whole place is disabled himself. i bought my planes from there and ill include the prices as a list at the end they also do repairs and maintenance on rc vehicle and have an indoor race track for rc cars. they sell the full pheonix simulator for £25 (complete bargain if you ask me) in all honesty, no matter how many words i actually use, it still wont discribe how good they actually are heres my planes and prices i paid for them: hi-boy precedant - £10 with full electrics but no engine (you can buy a 46 at the shop for £10 aswell) top model kabriolin - £30 with electrics (including 3 hi-tec servos) the glider - (bought with the engine for the kabriolin which is a super tigre 61) £80 for glider and engine. Edited By daniel barton on 27/11/2012 18:27:31

hi peter the designs for the shifting tail weight was primarily used for aircraft carrier planes during ww1 as there planes always ended up tail up upon landing due to the extremely rapid decceleration of the plane and as such, they started fiddling to find this worked best. the actual design of it is still classified but i used to own a ww1 aircraft book which explained the planes in grave details and also there problems and the solutions to the problems, even though the actual designs are still under classification, the actual idea of it was declassified and as such free to talk about. so i thought as you were having a very similar situation, i think this bit of information would help, i can also figure out a way of doing it aswell if anyone needs the info

basically i cant get the engine to run the way it should and starting it is a pain aswell. prop: 13x8 master screw fuel: model techniks 20%but im changing to 10% in a week or so plug: size 8 and its a fairly long shank on it. the engine itself is second hand and had a deep clean before i bought it. what else would you like to know

may i ask if you have a tail wheel as if you didnt, it may have helped by adding alittle weight to the tail. also i was thinking of moving some weight towards the rear. i dunno if it will work but as you have sorted it theres no need but with full sized bi-planes that had landing trouble, they developed a system that would (apon landing approach) slide a small weight to the tail which would move the centre of gravity towards the rear and use a slight increase of engine power to land the plane level, which stopped the tail over nose situation that i seen in the first video. again this may not help you at all but i thught it maybe worth mentioning here

hi scott, yh i can fly to a certain extent, its the landings and setup im struggling with, my local club havnt even replied to several emails requesting information so im affraid a club is a no go, hence why im asking if someone is willing to help me. i have a 6 channel e-sky 35mhz transmitter atm but that will be changed fairly soon Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 27/11/2012 04:49:49