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MAD Dave

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Posts posted by MAD Dave

    Designing

    in 3D Printing

    Posted

    My tuppence worth….

    I think Roger Jones 3 is slightly mistaken, Martin Harris answered the question at his 03/02 18:39 entry suggesting production of a reduced size object of the original, turning it into a "hole" and carefully merging it with the original to produce a shell. All easily done on Tinkercad though great care has to be taken with dimensions and positioning prior to merging. I discovered this process for myself during the initial lockdown and used it successfully for producing a…… hollow canopy!

    Following on from that, I explored 123D Design (free to download but no longer supported I believe) and Fusion 360. I found these two could do pretty much whatever I wanted regarding 3D print design but the down-sides were complexity of use and being not particularly intuitive; unlike Tinkercad. There is a wealth of online tutorials and I spent the later lockdowns trawling slowly through the "how to's". Worked for me.

    My current modus operandi is to do the fundamental design work using Fusion 360 (can be done using 123D Design as well), export the .stl files to my pc and then pick them up on Tinkercad to complete the job. That process may not appeal to the purists but it works for me! I find the Fusion 123 "lofting" and "shell" functions to be particularly helpful; the latter does away with the need to construct and merge the Tinkercad "hole".

    My current lockdown project is the conversion of a hand launched pusher-prop design to (finger saving) EDF using Tony Nijhuis's favourite 50mm FMS EDF unit. Not completed yet but going well. A photo is included showing the 3D printed EDF assembly bolted to the rear of an appropriately truncated balsa fuselage. Max thrust measured so far is ~520g on 3S.

    image3psm.jpg

    Sign of the times - funnies * Remember this is a family friendly forum and inappropriate postings will be removed without warning.

    in Chit-chat

    Posted

    A school chum of mine struck back - ONCE. He carefully hollowed out the core of a chalk stick with the point of his compass and filled it with red match heads; carefully concealing it all by packing the open end with some of the powdered chalk he'd generated. He placed his loaded piece beside the blackboard shelf having first removed all the others. Next lesson, the teacher scribbles vigorously on the blackboard and, as a result of the friction, surprise, surprise, the chalk bursts into flames and burns the teacher's fingers. It took the teacher a microsecond to fathom the culprit's identity; it was more than a blackboard rubber that headed his way!

    Modes 1 or 2

    in Beginners

    Posted

    I don't understand why you guys are ignoring Mode 3 - the mirror of Mode 2. I am left handed and it has always worked for me. It was my initial set up way back with my 27MHz Fleet gear and, being LH'd, seemed the most logical to me. Still does!

    Design assistance request!

    in 3D Printing

    Posted

    Having got my 3D printer kit built and working successfully, I have used Tinkercad to design and print a few sundry items, even a made-to-measure battery tray/Rx mount for my "pre-loved" HK Spitfire. I am very pleased with the quality of the prints so far and have aspirations to use the printer for further modelling bits and pieces. As a start, I decided I would like to have a go at constructing a simple straight sided (trapezium) outline fin for my latest home build project – and have hit a brick wall. I am aware that a classically built up fin would probably be lighter but just wish to give it a go and see what I can achieve.

    My status in the 3D print world is of course biased toward the inexperienced end of the spectrum, so, any tips and suggestions would be most appreciated.

    Put simply, I have the root aerofoil and the tip aerofoil but I cannot see how to smoothly fill the space between them. I am quite able to position each aerofoil correctly in 3D space in software relative to each other but filling the space between them is my challenge. I am yet to come across the "secret button" or process.

    I have had reasonable success with Tinkercad and have installed Fusion 360 on my pc. I am slowly working my way into '360.

    As stated above, any help would be much appreciated.

    Glue for PLA and PET-G

    in 3D Printing

    Posted

    Having got my 3D printer kit built and working successfully, I have used Tinkercad to design and print a few sundry items, even a made-to-measure battery tray/Rx mount for my "pre-loved" HK Spitfire. I am very pleased with the quality of the prints so far and have aspirations to use the printer for further modelling bits and pieces. As a start, I decided I would like to have a go at constructing a simple straight sided (trapezium) outline fin for my latest home build project – and have hit a brick wall. I am aware that a classically built up fin would probably be lighter but just wish to give it a go and see what I can achieve.

    My status in the 3D print world is of course biased toward the inexperienced end of the spectrum, so, any tips and suggestions would be most appreciated.

    Put simply, I have the root aerofoil and the tip aerofoil but I cannot see how to smoothly fill the space between them. I am quite able to position each aerofoil correctly in 3D space in software relative to each other but filling the space between them is my challenge. I am yet to come across the "secret button" or process.

    I have had reasonable success with Tinkercad and have installed Fusion 360 on my pc. I am slowly working my way into '360.

    As stated above, any help would be much appreciated.

    Glue for PLA and PET-G

    in 3D Printing

    Posted

    Many thanks for your inputs chaps.

    I have yet to get my Prusa Mk3s kit out of its box, having stalled at the somewhat voluminous assembly instructions book! In the meantime, if anyone learns something significant re PLA/PET-G adhesive, please let me know via this thread.

    Back to studying the assembly instructions...........

    Glue for PLA and PET-G

    in 3D Printing

    Posted

    I have just ordered my (first!) 3D printer with a view, in part, to it contributing to my model builds; possibly even construction of whole models.

    In the case of a "whole model", printed in pseudo-Airfix components and glued together to form the whole, I am at a slight loss to know what adhesive to use; PLA and PET-G in particular.

    Does anyone out there have any practical experience and recommendation(s) please?

    What I am particularly keen to avoid is the likes of this........... **LINK**

    How to set flaps on a Futaba 10J Transmitter

    in Futaba

    Posted

    Slightly off piste but still 10J. I am left handed and have always flown Mode 3; ie mirror Mode 2. I recently acquired a 10J, Tx arriving as expected set to Mode 2. Removed the back and (carefully) rearranged the mechanics to Mode3. I now find that ex-throttle/new elevator stick exhibits a servo offset at stick centre position. Have I been unlucky with my specific purchase or am I missing something? Have checked all offsets within the menus I can find and they are all zero. I am able to get things to where they should be with a stick trim offset of 32. Anyone else have experience of Mode 3-ing a 10J Tx?

    Re Tx batteries, I have flown many years on a couple of sets of x4 Panasonic 2050mAh AA NiMh cells in my 6J; never had a problem. Intending to employ them with my 10J.

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