MAD Dave
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Steve, What leads you to expect the EDF to consume 100 Amps?
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Oooops: For "Fusion123" on my last offering, please read "Fusion 360". It's my age.......
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My tuppence worth…. I think Roger Jones 3 is slightly mistaken, Martin Harris answered the question at his 03/02 18:39 entry suggesting production of a reduced size object of the original, turning it into a "hole" and carefully merging it with the original to produce a shell. All easily done on Tinkercad though great care has to be taken with dimensions and positioning prior to merging. I discovered this process for myself during the initial lockdown and used it successfully for producing a…… hollow canopy! Following on from that, I explored 123D Design (free to download but no longer supported I believe) and Fusion 360. I found these two could do pretty much whatever I wanted regarding 3D print design but the down-sides were complexity of use and being not particularly intuitive; unlike Tinkercad. There is a wealth of online tutorials and I spent the later lockdowns trawling slowly through the "how to's". Worked for me. My current modus operandi is to do the fundamental design work using Fusion 360 (can be done using 123D Design as well), export the .stl files to my pc and then pick them up on Tinkercad to complete the job. That process may not appeal to the purists but it works for me! I find the Fusion 123 "lofting" and "shell" functions to be particularly helpful; the latter does away with the need to construct and merge the Tinkercad "hole". My current lockdown project is the conversion of a hand launched pusher-prop design to (finger saving) EDF using Tony Nijhuis's favourite 50mm FMS EDF unit. Not completed yet but going well. A photo is included showing the 3D printed EDF assembly bolted to the rear of an appropriately truncated balsa fuselage. Max thrust measured so far is ~520g on 3S.
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Has anyone tried 3D printed stand-offs and/or boxes? Obviously structural considerations to be thought through but exact size - no problem!
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A school chum of mine struck back - ONCE. He carefully hollowed out the core of a chalk stick with the point of his compass and filled it with red match heads; carefully concealing it all by packing the open end with some of the powdered chalk he'd generated. He placed his loaded piece beside the blackboard shelf having first removed all the others. Next lesson, the teacher scribbles vigorously on the blackboard and, as a result of the friction, surprise, surprise, the chalk bursts into flames and burns the teacher's fingers. It took the teacher a microsecond to fathom the culprit's identity; it was more than a blackboard rubber that headed his way! -
Advent Prize Draw - 24th Dec - last one!
MAD Dave replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in All Things Model Flying
Season's wishes everyone, stay safe! -
Advent Prize Draw - 23rd Dec
MAD Dave replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in All Things Model Flying
This might help cure my feelings of being a mushroom....? -
Advent Prize Draw - 9th Dec (post to enter)
MAD Dave replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in All Things Model Flying
To win this one would be absolutely phantasmagorical! -
With all due respects, it is does not correspond with Salisbury Cathedral's structure; used to live just down the road from it.
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I don't understand why you guys are ignoring Mode 3 - the mirror of Mode 2. I am left handed and it has always worked for me. It was my initial set up way back with my 27MHz Fleet gear and, being LH'd, seemed the most logical to me. Still does!
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FAO Fun Flyer, sounds like you have an ideal set up. I would be most grateful if you could let us know what set up and hardware you employ etc. Many thanks.
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.....and ours.........
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Experimental error Simon? Suggest try again a couple more times to consider the range of results. Talk Sunday.
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Having got my 3D printer kit built and working successfully, I have used Tinkercad to design and print a few sundry items, even a made-to-measure battery tray/Rx mount for my "pre-loved" HK Spitfire. I am very pleased with the quality of the prints so far and have aspirations to use the printer for further modelling bits and pieces. As a start, I decided I would like to have a go at constructing a simple straight sided (trapezium) outline fin for my latest home build project – and have hit a brick wall. I am aware that a classically built up fin would probably be lighter but just wish to give it a go and see what I can achieve. My status in the 3D print world is of course biased toward the inexperienced end of the spectrum, so, any tips and suggestions would be most appreciated. Put simply, I have the root aerofoil and the tip aerofoil but I cannot see how to smoothly fill the space between them. I am quite able to position each aerofoil correctly in 3D space in software relative to each other but filling the space between them is my challenge. I am yet to come across the "secret button" or process. I have had reasonable success with Tinkercad and have installed Fusion 360 on my pc. I am slowly working my way into '360. As stated above, any help would be much appreciated.
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Having got my 3D printer kit built and working successfully, I have used Tinkercad to design and print a few sundry items, even a made-to-measure battery tray/Rx mount for my "pre-loved" HK Spitfire. I am very pleased with the quality of the prints so far and have aspirations to use the printer for further modelling bits and pieces. As a start, I decided I would like to have a go at constructing a simple straight sided (trapezium) outline fin for my latest home build project – and have hit a brick wall. I am aware that a classically built up fin would probably be lighter but just wish to give it a go and see what I can achieve. My status in the 3D print world is of course biased toward the inexperienced end of the spectrum, so, any tips and suggestions would be most appreciated. Put simply, I have the root aerofoil and the tip aerofoil but I cannot see how to smoothly fill the space between them. I am quite able to position each aerofoil correctly in 3D space in software relative to each other but filling the space between them is my challenge. I am yet to come across the "secret button" or process. I have had reasonable success with Tinkercad and have installed Fusion 360 on my pc. I am slowly working my way into '360. As stated above, any help would be much appreciated.
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......which is the background as to why I was enquiring about laser "life" earlier in the thread
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Is there any clue to the life of the laser?
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Many thanks for your inputs chaps. I have yet to get my Prusa Mk3s kit out of its box, having stalled at the somewhat voluminous assembly instructions book! In the meantime, if anyone learns something significant re PLA/PET-G adhesive, please let me know via this thread. Back to studying the assembly instructions...........
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Has anyone tried uv curing adhesive? 3D materials in particular.
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I have just ordered my (first!) 3D printer with a view, in part, to it contributing to my model builds; possibly even construction of whole models. In the case of a "whole model", printed in pseudo-Airfix components and glued together to form the whole, I am at a slight loss to know what adhesive to use; PLA and PET-G in particular. Does anyone out there have any practical experience and recommendation(s) please? What I am particularly keen to avoid is the likes of this........... **LINK**
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I don't believe significantly so. A forward biassed semiconductor (eg, a diode) of the silicon variety will, under normal circumstances, always exhibit a voltage drop between 0.6 and 0.7 volts; in parallel or not!
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Place some diodes in parallel to share the load, ie, heat. Recommend the same spec. devices.
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Where's the best place to acquire a selection of those plastic topped pins please?
