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Model Monster

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Everything posted by Model Monster

  1. Model Monster
    Buy, build, fly, repeat!
  2. Model Monster
    Finally a decent bright day and here are some flying shots of my Zero, now all trimmed out and tweaked. It goes like the clappers with the engine doing just over 11,000RPM and a Master Airscrew 11 x 8 prop . I swapped to this more flexible type, after snapping several APC's. One of my flying buddies is going to bring a speed detector so we can clock how fast it actually goes, as nothing at our field can keep up with it. Ready to go Taking off Flypasts Low pass
  3. Model Monster

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  4. Model Monster

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  5. Model Monster

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  6. Model Monster

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  7. Model Monster

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  8. Model Monster
    I'm in. Richard I've sent a pm for Bucksboy and I.
  9. Model Monster
    Here's a few examples of problems discovered during crash investigations, following alleged radio issues and various cries along the line of "I've lost it". With the associated response from the affected pilot. Flat rx pack - Well I'd charged it last week. Missing servo arm screw - Oh yeah, I'd taken that off to make an adjustment. 2.4 Rx aerial cut down - The silvery bit sticking out of the end looked odd, so I cut it off. I'm sure there are loads more?
  10. Model Monster
    Many years ago, while learning to fly and within the context of other flyers having issues with radio equipment and this causing crashes etc. A much more experienced club member advised that "It's strange, but, the more you fly the less you suffer from interference". I wonder if this sage bit of advice would apply to some of the 2.4 issue?
  11. Model Monster
    Finally, it stopped raining long enough for a test flight. All went well and after gaining plenty of speed it was lifted off the dolly which "pinged" away. A few clicks of up and and left aileron and it was flying hands off. At full chat it really motors around the sky, banking and yanking being the order of the day as it was quite grey and I was flying a silhouette. Landing was no problem, just glide it in and cut the throttle before touch down. I'm just going to add a little bit more tail weight and reduce the aileron throws a tad, Daren was right 4mm is plenty for the throws.I'll get some flying shots next time I fly it when the Sun's out.Edited By Model Monster on 11/06/2016 16:34:15
  12. Model Monster
    I finally got around to completing my Zero. Vital statistics are, 2lb completed and painted airframe with a 4lb 5oz all-up dry weight, including 1/2oz of Lead in the tail to achieve C of G balance of 65mm from leading edge. I did shove the Rx pack down the back of the fuselage surrounded with foam packing. Prop is 11 x7 APC. I dirtied the model using silver enamel and oil pastels which is fairly quick to do and doesn't need too much skill. Here are some photos. I'm hoping to fly it this Wednesday evening and will use a Dolly for taking off.
  13. Model Monster

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  14. Model Monster

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  15. Model Monster

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  16. Model Monster

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  17. Model Monster

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  18. Model Monster
    Jon,for your LA7 and what you describe, it does sound as though it's a tad tail heavy and could also benefit from a bit more down thrust. This should then reduce the amount of down elevator trim required at cruise and as a consequence reduce the tendency of the nose rising at high speed and dropping when throttling back.
  19. Model Monster
    The dive test really does work whether at 45deg or full vertical but the plane definitely needs to be at low or zero power. If you are unsure about doing this then either do it at a very safe altitude or get someone with suitable competency to do it. It really is worth doing and makes any plane nicer to fly / land. A stall turn is an ideal way to do this and best on a fairly calm day. It's also sort of goes hand in hand with adjusting the thrust line of the power plant - Increase power smoothly to full power and pull up to do a stall turn (or climb 45 deg) trim the rudder so that it stays in a fairly straight line, do the stall turn bit and then check to see what the model does, as per the previous posts, with regard to pulling out / tucking in etc. Keep adjusting the balance and elevator trim to fly at a constant altitude, at cruising speed and then repeat the dive test as necessary. A safe C of G will have the model gradually pulling out, It will almost certainly take a few goes to get it right. Once this is all near enough then to check the up / down thrust line - from level flight open the throttle smoothly to full and see what happens, ideally the model should climb, but only slightly. If it balloons up it needs more down thrust, if it drops it needs less or even some up thrust (draggy bipe's tend to need this). The side thrust needs adjusting so that the model will pull up under full power with the rudder at or very close to neutral. Once the thrust lines are sorted you can repeat the C of G checks just to make sure the thrust lines weren't affecting this. Edited By Model Monster on 04/04/2016 19:37:25
  20. Model Monster
    I had ordered a pilot from Real Model Pilots, to suit this scale and the height of my cockpit floor. I splashed out on having it pre-painted and I must admit they've did a really good job. I had to post them a cardboard cut out of the approximate overall outline with height of the eyes and they did the rest. If anyone else wants one they've now got the file. With this I could now complete the cockpit, canopy and start painting. I used self adhesive Aluminium tape for the cockpit framing and pre-painted this before tracing the various shapes using masking tape. I remove the masking tape once I've got them in the correct position. Here are a few photos showing the basic sequence, hopefully they are self explanatory. It's quick to do (this took about an hour), saves loads of masking, looks good and if it needs to look weathered just give it a bit of a rub with a Scotchbrite pad and the aluminium shows through on the edges. It's also good for access panels etc. 1st coat of primer - I used the 2 pack Klass Cote product from Fighter Aces (definitely use a good quality mask). I'll rub this down, apply one more light spray of primer and then paint. Once I'm done I'll post some more photos.
  21. Model Monster
    1st coat of primer
  22. Model Monster

    Ta Da

    Model Monster posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Ta Da
  23. Model Monster
    Completed framing
  24. Model Monster
    Framing after removal of masking tape
  25. Model Monster
    Transfer and cut out framing
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