Rob Tothill
-
Posts
119 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Calendar
Downloads
Everything posted by Rob Tothill
-
Hi Nelmo, I have found almost every propeller I have ever used to need balancing, including APC and Graupner. I bought one of these **LINK** Check it's balance, then with a bit of sand paper rub the rear of the tip of the blade on the heavy side to remove a little bit of material at a time. When I got this device I was worried that it was so cheap it could be inaccurate. I checked my balanced props on a friends Slec balancer, and they were all well fine. Rob
-
The recommended prop is 9.5 x 6, I'll try a 10x5. Do you think that would be ok? I might have to disagree about the universe. Surely if space-time ceases to exist, such as in a big crunch, then forever would be from the birth, to the destruction of the universe. I doubt my Enya will still be going then though! Rob
-
Mine is the cast iron piston, not ringed, and with a twin needle carb. I followed your instructions and have run it for about an hour now. I peaked it out, and it could hold the revs. I have backed it off a good 1/4 turn and intend to leave it at that for the next hours running to ensure it stays rich. Gonzo, with the heavier piston, is it better to run a larger diameter prop for lower revs? What are the problems that could occur at high revs. Thanks for the help. Hopefully I've broken it in correctly and now have an engine that will last forever! Rob
-
Thank you all for the advice. I have a good idea how to go about it now. Those articles make interesting reading gonzo. The instructions you found Steve are the same as the ones I have. I think they could do with updating regarding the running in procedure! I don't have any castor so I will be using pro power. Hopefully it won't do too much harm! Incidentally the supplied muffler (an m251) wouldn't fit in the recess I had carved in the fuselage for the old engine. I have fitted an os e3030 muffler instead. Will this have any negative effect on performance? Rob
-
Please could the resident engine experts give me the benefit of your wisdom. I have a new Enya ss 30 bb which I intend to run for the first time tomorrow. I have not broken in an engine with a cast iron piston and steel liner before, so would like advice about the process. The instructions just say that it must run rich for the first hour or so. Having researched a bit on t'Internet some people suggest starting with short runs of 10 seconds, allowing cooling in between, and slowly increasing running time. Others suggest a rich setting (4 stroking) and just alternating between 3/4 throttle and idle. Does anyone have a definitive answer regarding run time and throttle settings?! Rob
-
. Edited By Rob Tothill on 09/10/2014 00:09:54
-
. Edited By Rob Tothill on 09/10/2014 00:09:31
-
. Edited By Rob Tothill on 09/10/2014 00:09:06
-
This is a great thread! Iain M Banks produced some fantastic sci-fi. Consider Phlebas is the first in the culture series, and it's brilliant, as are the rest. It's very sad that he's gone. For historical novels, you'd go a long way to beat Bernard Cornwell. Particularly the Grail Quest books, about the Hundred Years War, and also the Warrior Chronicles, about Alfred the Great, and the norse men. I used to be very keen on Hornblower, but he's a bit too clean cut! Patrick O'Brians Jack Aubrey is a bit more realistic, and the naval history seems very well researched. Rob
-
Thanks for your kind comments Peter and Terry. I'm sure you'll love yours when it's finished Terry. It's a pleasure to fly.
-
Thanks Terry. Here's some piccies. Rob
-
-
-
-
-
I finally finished mine and it was Maidened yesterday. It flew very well on an Enya 25 ss bb, and the small engine kept it slow enough for me to handle despite my relative inexperience. I'm very pleased with how she turned out, and thoroughly enjoyed building her Many thanks Peter! Thanks too for all the advice and info others have added to this thread. I will add some photos when I've time to read how. Rob
-
Built up structures
Rob Tothill replied to Gary Murphy 1's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Hi Gary, I'm not a very experienced builder, but I've always been told that with aliphatic there should be no gap. The two pieces of wood should be butted up against each other and the joint should be kept under pressure until the glue has cured. So if your cross pieces are an interference fit, it sounds as though you will have a good joint. I sometimes apply glue to both sides of the joint if I'm worried about it all being scraped off the end of the piece being pushed into the framework. I always wipe off excess glue to save weight. Rob -
Thanks again Lee, and e.d., what you said did make sense Lee. I think my timing was a tooth retarded. I made a new timing tool, took the engine to bits and rebuilt it again. The valves are now equally open within a fraction of a mm at tdc. I estimate the inlet starts to open around 40? before tdc. I'll run it and see how it goes. Is it good idle but rubbish top end if timings advanced or retarded? Rob
-
Hi Lee, Regarding the timing again, when the piston is at tdc it feels like there is a point of least resistance to turning the shaft. The inlet is shut though and the exhaust very slightly open. As soon as tdc is passed the exhaust continues to slowly close and the inlet immediately starts to open. Does that sound right? Cheers Rob
-
Hi Lee, I've tried that and I'm pretty sure it's right. Is the clacking just what a 4 stroke sounds like? It's my first one!
-
Just in case anyone finds this thread whilst contemplating a bearing replacement I also found the below thread quite useful **LINK** I'm not going to start running on castor though!
-
Thanks to everyone for all the advice. Tonight I replaced the bearings. The rear bearing was definitely going as it felt very sandy once out. The rear bearing had metal shields both sides and the front bearing had rubber seals on both sides. I managed to get the timing back together OK (I think!). So now I need to build a model to put the engine in! Anyone got an idea for the perfect companion for it? One last question, is it normal for the valves/cam followers to sound quite "clacky" when turning it over by hand, or have I made an error when putting it back together? Rob
-
Free Glue Grab Weekend
Rob Tothill replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in All Things Model Flying
Me too please -
Built up kit wings
Rob Tothill replied to Gary Murphy 1's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Hi Gary, I'm new to building and had this problem on the first wing I built. I think my problem was a combination of a bendy building board and possibly Spars that weren't very straight. I didn't take much care with spar selection from my wood pack and just glued them in place. Others will know better than me, but say the top spar is curved, once all the webbing and sheeting is completed would the wing have a tendency to bow? Rob -
There is a member of our club who makes his own fuel from methanol, 3% petrol and an oil I can't remember the name of. He says it comes out half the price of glow fuel and runs his 2 and 4 strokes with no problems. I don't know if this causes any problems for the engines but he's very experienced and has uses it for years.
