Jamie sawyer

Afternoon gents, I have bought myself an early Christmas present. The petrol engine comes with a control box for regulating the spark. There is 3 wires on it. One goes to a timing sensor on the engine which I understand. There is a power supply which I will connect through a switch to a 4.2 volt Nicad to power the spark. Its 1100 mah so should be sufficient. What's confusing me is there is a 3rd cable and I have read the instructions back to front and no mention!! Its the normal control cable with Yellow, Red and Brown 3 core cable. Just like what you get on a servo. What is the use of this cable ?? I can't see why the control box needs a signal from the RX unless I use a Y lead and connect it through the throttle connection on the RX for some reason. Can someone shed some sense on this please and thank you for the help. Jamie

Posted by David Davis on 01/10/2014 12:39:14: I have only ever covered one wing with Solartex which was undercambered , a Junior 60's. I had no trouble but the advice given above, of applying Basaloc to the undersides of the wing-ribs and spars if they are flush with the underside of the wing-ribs, will help to improve adhesion. Once having got to this stage, ie, the underside of the wing is covered, I've heard that some people run a bead of cyano alongside the wing ribs to help adhesion further. Never tried it myself. Thats a good idea with the cyano David Good tip for the future. Well my Buccaneer is on hold CB so I will need to watch with interest as you do your one. Ps....reason is I bought my girlfriend and engagement ring...... I could have bought so many goodies with that money ....on the plus side she comes flying with me so think she is a keeper ... Any more pictures Country Boy ?? Jamie

I'm a Y lead man to and setup flaps on a glider recently. I had the same problem!! The reason was simply because the horn on one flap was millimeters back from the LE of the flap compared to the other side.....I changed the hole on the horn position in by one hole and that was it sorted then I set my end points for the deg of angle I wanted Jamie

Just a thought and back to the warping of wings.... When I cover wings I cover one side first on a low heat so that I get all the edges trimmed and glued down. I then add a little heat just to pull the sagging bits out of the film in between the ribs. I then cover the other side and add more heat to that side just to take out any of the slack in the film. Once I've done that I then add more heat and shrink the covering material to remove all the wrinkles etc. I always worry if I cover one side of a wing and then heat the film to much it will warp the wing. In my process and my thinking is if there is film on both sides it will prevent that... Thats my thinking, wrong or write I'm sticking with it Jamie

Thanks Chris

Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 27/09/2014 09:22:23: And I'm sure you are! Regarding remote testing ah - sadly not Jamie. I think you live in Scotland, yes? If so then there the tests are known as the Bronze Award (equivalent to an A-cert) and the Silver Award (equivalent to a B-cert) However, you can arrange to take the tests at any club which has an examiner and there should be no fee. I appreciate that you may be too far away from a club to make being a member impractical, but what about a special one-off day trip to specifically take the test? You are allowed two goes at any of the tests in one day. BEB Correct Beb, North Scotland....50 miles north of Inverness!! I think that the closest club is about 70 miles away in Elgin. There are other closer ones but I doubt there will be instructors. What is normally involved in a A test any way. For Example :: 1 Safe starting procedure 2 Pre flight safety checks 3 Clear runway of and dangers and take off 4 Fly certain ciruits Eg Figure of 8s and normal down wind legs into finals for landings.... 5 Landing procidures eg....check runway for dangers.....inform fellow pilots you are landing etc.. 6 No taxing into pitts and shut engine on runway followed by carrying aircraft into pitts.!! these are all the normal things that you do during a days flying....all in one flight lol.... Refuel and you go again Or does the examiner just pick some randoms to test you on ?? Jamie

I relise that Beb, is there actually a way I can sit my A & B test myself up here without an examiner with another flying buddy and do a postal examination ?? I've been flying 20 years+ but I would still quite like to know if I would pass the tests lol....even on a curiosity factor if its not poss to sit a test. Ps. I would like to think that I am a safe flyer Jamie

Hi guys thanks for the replys...a lot of good models that have been suggested... This plane isn't just for her....she will help with the building in a small commodity as a learning process and so she is involved. She is 9 and I am very sure the interest will die off but in the mean time I will try encouraging it as she is showing interest and you never know it may be a life time thing...you just never can tell. I agree on the weight thing Mods have mentioned but I can't see an issue if she is on a buddy box. The larger model will help with orientation... Something around the 6 to 8 ft size. I have already got a seagull Arising star Not being funny but A and B certs don't exist up here where I live..... Jamie

Its coming together CB,.....keep up the good work . Im following it to Jamie

Posted by cymaz on 25/09/2014 22:33:10: If you don't mind US kits Try this, there is also its big brother I like the big brother cymaz..... KK its a high winger I'm looking for sorry should have said. I want something hands off it comes good on its own basically John I like it but its not quite there lol....the size is for possibly tugging at the field to but it has to have all the trainer quaitys ....doesnt have to have 4 ch.....3 would suffice

Hi all, I'm in the market for a large trainer kit to build over the winter. I'm all but hit the buy button on a Ben Buckle Falcon or Super Buccaneer but thought I'd ask in case I am missing something that I'm not aware of. I want it big, such as about 80 " size for my daughter to learn on. It has to be a floater and prefferably a kit to build with her. Any suggestions or will I just commit to the Ben Buckle one. I learnt on a Falcon so the lure is already there for that kit. Thanks Jamie

Posted by Phil Cooke on 23/09/2014 22:54:49: Batfink! LoL That was my suggestion until I seen yours ...beat me to it Jamie

I fly Futaba Fasst now on 2.4 ghz. A new Rx of futaba brand is about £60 where as an Orange Rx is about £18.... I used to fly all Futaba until this year and swapped to Orange....not had a problem yet !! and there 1/3rd of the cost.. I will be trying Frsky also at some point Jamie

Welcome to the Forum Mike. Looking forward to seeing your build progress. I'm in the final stages of choice between a Super Buccaneer or the Ben Buckle Falcon which I origionally learnt to fly on many moons ago ... The Super Buccaneer has a one piece wing at 90 odd inches which is slightly off putting for transport and storage.. Good luck with the jigsaw Jamie

Have you watched this Eric.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aiBV1GGRJe8 It sounds like you have a programming issue. It will be something simple but I'm not up to speed on that TX personally. I use Futaba but its the 7ch Fasst set... I would try resetting the whole model program or just setup a new program for that particular helicopter and see how you get on.

Posted by Chris Barlow 1 on 21/09/2014 15:02:11: If this heli is new to you it would be worth setting up completely from scratch anyway. You don't know how it's been set/sdjusted at the factory or by the previous owner and it is a good idea to check that all screws have been threadlocked! Sometimes this is even missing on some screws on brand new helis with expensive and frustrating first flights! Pitch gauge, steel rule, ball pliers, threadlock and swash plate leveller are a must as well as patience and accuracy! I always eyeball the swash for level Chris, its worked for me for years. If I was aiming for serious accurate 3D flight I would be tempted to buy one but as I say eyeball level is good enough or if you sit the heli on a table like i said and hold a scaffolder's short level along the line of the swash it will give you a good enough eyeball setup.

As Chris says, pitch gage is a 100% must Eric.... There is a lot to consider while setting up the helicopter servos before you even go into your pitch curves to get a linear movement in the servo arms versus the swash plate. With the helicopter sitting on the table you have your motor cables disconnected so the main blades and motor doesn't spool up. Set your throttle pitch curve to 0 - 25 - 50 - 75 - 100.........Throttle curve the same....0 - 25 - 50 - 75 - 100. Have your transmitter set to normal mode...not idle up mode. Put your throttle to 50% half way setting! Check that the 3 servo arms on the swash are at a perfect horizontal position on all 3 servos. Also as you move your throttle up and down make sure all 3 servos are moving in the same direction up and down together. While you have your throttle set to half way on your transmitter and servo arms at a horizontal stage you have to make sure the swash is perfectly level and adjust the servo arm linkages to adjust. Then the pitch gauge comes in and you need it i'm afraid.....set the swash to 4 deg at half throttle.....this is your hovering state to start a good foundation on. If you get this bit right then the rest follows very easily. You should archive + 12 deg or so at 100% throttle stick. 0% on throttle you require -4 deg on the rotor blades. You can adjust this by your end points in the transmitter. Idle up 1 can be set now for a more agile flight pattern. You have to unsure that when you click into idle up from the normal setting that there isn't a big difference on the throttle setting or it will affect your helicopter and it will take a jump in the air which is quite off putting. Normally my Idle up settings for my trex are 100% - 80% - 55% - 80% - 100% ON Throttle and my pitch setting is -12 deg at bottom stick 0% deg pitch mid stick and +12 deg top stick.....pitch curve is 0% - 25% - 50% - 75% - 100% but adjust the end point so that you achive the full movement of the swash for you full negative -12 deg.... You have to make sure that you have the beginning setup correct of you will be having an up hill battle all the way.Hope all this makes sense and helps Jamie

Posted by Mike Stevens on 21/09/2014 06:51:50: Posted by Jamie sawyer on 20/09/2014 17:20:01: A high one Mike !! My poor legs are sore ... I'm not sure on the name of the hill. I would need to do a bit of research to try and find out its actual name. I'm in the highlands Mike. Jamie Very nice and a choice of hills - very envious apart from the weather at times! ...lol Thanks Mike, I am very lucky. Inverness is 45 miles from me, good hours drive. Thats the closesed city. Thanks Jamie

Posted by Ton van Munsteren on 20/09/2014 21:47:01: Jamie, Great pics thanks for posting, man am I jealous what a great location and the RedEagle is looks great in the air. Do you mix rudder with aileron because it looks to me that you don't use any rudder because it looks neutral. Ton Hi Ton Yes it is very easy to take your surroundings for granted. It is a very picturesque area I live in and very rural...Love it! I haven't added the rudder mix in yet. I wanted to try it again for a good flight. I was finding yesterday in the strong wind....and it was a strong wind that when I turned the Ailerons were doing there job very well without rudder. Across wind and down wind legs were fine, into wind flying was fine, but I was finding that turning into the wind was lacking a bit and I was always needing the rudder for extra strength in the turn. (Not much but it was needing about 1/4 stick) I'm not sure what happened in the first 15 min of flight but I nearly lost the glider. It very much felt like loss of signal as the glider turned gently into a down wind leg and I had no control at all for about 5 second. No elevator, rudder nothing and it was well down wind before I got it back into a turn. Thank god for the electric motor or I would have struggled to get it back into the lift. It was a good 100 meters back behind the ridge!!. That didn't happen again but I am suspect that the wind was slightly to much for her and it wasn't signal loss but just to rough a day.....or it could be the case the ailerons were struggling...more testing required but as I say it was an hours flight with only one incident....early into the flight.....I'm blaming myself right now as pilot error lol... As for the air breaks mod....put it like this.....when I came into land I landed in a high lift area on the ridge. I swung into a down wind leg. Took her 30 meters down wind and came in with air breaks deployed on the final turn. She takes a slightly nose up which you need to add some down elevator for penetration and the glider just sinks in ( In high lift area)...there absolutely fabulous ....really glad I fitted the flaps...If they weren't there I would simply over shoot and have to come round again.... Glad you like the pics Ton Jamie

A high one Mike !! My poor legs are sore ... I'm not sure on the name of the hill. I would need to do a bit of research to try and find out its actual name. I'm in the highlands Mike. Jamie

So I was out today ad took some pictured of where I fly for a westerly which it is today at about 15 mph. This is us up to the top of a very steep climb. Up at about 300 meters as the above post states. This is me up at the platou that I was flying from the other weekend. The pictures don't do it justice to be honest and its hard to get a feel for the climb. The sunny patch down below is where the other picture was taken at the top of the post. And now I have reached the very top. The walk back to the car park is down where the green grass is. A good 1.5 miles at a guess. The view is awsome at the top ....

Just back in from another outing on the slope with the Red Eagle...in 15 mph winds. Quite gusty up the top of the hill but I think I thank the extra weight to be honest. It flew well again for a good hour. Here is some picture's courtesy of my other half . And I do hate my photo being taken but thought I should share a silly man in a high vis jacket!! Full aileron deflection on this picture. It was a handful at some points to keep it where I wanted during the gusts. Home and still intact which is always very good ! Jamie