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David Cooke 1

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  1. David Cooke 1
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  2. David Cooke 1
    Here is a photo of the completed model. Its a 24" Super Sixty. Its a play thing compared to the usual things. Something I read that makes a good bonding surface is (ironically) super glue. I rub a little onto balsa and it provides a good bonding surface, vecro adheres really well. I've used Canopy glue on larger models with no problems, but struggled on this little model.
  3. David Cooke 1

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  5. David Cooke 1
    Thanks everyone for the replies - some good info! I have a silver cutout to mask over if I decide to go that way. Yes, I tried acetone (daughter's nail polish remover) but no joy. Kicking myself as I have some double sided tape and that stuff sticks like sxxx to a blanket (as my father used to say). Edited By David Cooke 1 on 27/12/2017 11:21:27
  6. David Cooke 1
    Canopy fitting is one of my least favour tasks. Current job is only a small model and Canopy Formula glue just slid around too much so resorted to superglue. I always seem to get more of it somewhere else than where I want it. When it dried, horrible white marks appeared inside the canopy and a small fingerprint appeared (grrrr). I tried a cotton bud with acetone nail polish remover and at first it looked like it was working, but after 10 mins it all dried out and the marks are still there. Any suggestions please? Material behind the canopy is Solarfilm Solite. Thanks Edited By David Cooke 1 on 24/12/2017 20:45:51 Edited By David Cooke 1 on 24/12/2017 20:46:57
  7. David Cooke 1
    Thanks for the example charger. Looks just the ticket!
  8. David Cooke 1
    I can only see this being a bad idea if the transmitter is switch on. The switch isolates the battery/charger from the electronics. Even then I don't think its that bad since everything goes through that liner reg, then worst case, the transmitter is on and the charger is applying an errant high cell series voltage. You'd be dumping power into the linear reg - and not very much since its only 80mA draw from the linear reg....? Even with a wall charger, you're still exposing it to the electronics but only when the power switch is slid to on position. Having said all that(!) I think though I will put the diode in as it gives me some protection in that I'm not exposing battery direct to the DC jack. For a constant current charger I would just use a bench power supply and set current limit.
  9. David Cooke 1
    I have already performed the modification. The -ve spring contacts were very badly corroded and even caused -ve terminal corrosion on the Molex power connector on the main PCB. The spring contacts had to go so I replaced with a battery pack. NiMH Eneloops last for quite some time! Even with a backlight modification, the current draw is ~ 80mA. The transmitter electronics are powered from a 3.3V linear regulator. I could not determine the minimum voltage drop over the regulator but verified with a PSU that the voltage warning comes on at ~4.1V I think it was. I have shorted the diode and will try tonight!!!
  10. David Cooke 1
    After suffering dry cell leak in my dormant DX6i, I fitted a pre-wired 4xAA Eneloop battery pack. My question is how to charge them without the Spektrum SPM9550 charger as I believe its just a simple constant current output and not sensing the battery voltage (to determine end of charge). I say this because poking inside the Dx6i with a DVM and by PCB trace inspection, I can see that there is a series diode from the charge socket to the battery. I guess this is to prevent connecting the charger the wrong way. However, it means that the charger cannot see the battery voltage. I have a Sigma EQ Mini charger that can charge NiMH (not sure how it knows how many cells there are! It must be sensing the battery voltage and I know that it looks at the battery dV/dt to determine end of charge). I'm thinking I need to therefore short that diode out. Any electronics guy be able to comment on this? Thanks
  11. David Cooke 1
    Yes, that is how I'm doing it. I was wondering if there were an tips. I guess you are trying to project that windscreen bottom curve on the plan to the curved fuselage surface, so maybe wrapping paper over the fuselage top curved surface and with the fuselage orientated like the plan, try to draw the windscreen curve on the paper. Its hard to explain in words...
  12. David Cooke 1
    I have a plan that has no template for the windscreen. The top of the fuselage section (F2 formers) is almost a semi-circle so it makes it harder to draw your own template. Other than trial and error (and I'm having lots of errors), is there a more accurate way of drawing a template? I actually have the plans drawn up in TurboCAD but I'm a beginner with the tool. Thanks
  13. David Cooke 1

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  14. David Cooke 1
    I'm looking for suggestions for 1/16th sheet rudder and elevators please. The model is 24" wingspan so only light loading on the control surfaces. Blenderm tape would do the job but I'm looking for hinges that won't be seen. One idea I read is floppy disk material (with the oxide surface scraped off). Thanks
  15. David Cooke 1
    A very quick wave with slow heat air gun and they've gone
  16. David Cooke 1

    Wrinkles Gone

    David Cooke 1 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Wrinkles Gone
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