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David Cooke 1

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Everything posted by David Cooke 1

  1. David Cooke 1
    Here is a photo of the completed model. Its a 24" Super Sixty. Its a play thing compared to the usual things. Something I read that makes a good bonding surface is (ironically) super glue. I rub a little onto balsa and it provides a good bonding surface, vecro adheres really well. I've used Canopy glue on larger models with no problems, but struggled on this little model.
  2. David Cooke 1

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  3. David Cooke 1

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  4. David Cooke 1
    Thanks everyone for the replies - some good info! I have a silver cutout to mask over if I decide to go that way. Yes, I tried acetone (daughter's nail polish remover) but no joy. Kicking myself as I have some double sided tape and that stuff sticks like sxxx to a blanket (as my father used to say). Edited By David Cooke 1 on 27/12/2017 11:21:27
  5. David Cooke 1
    Canopy fitting is one of my least favour tasks. Current job is only a small model and Canopy Formula glue just slid around too much so resorted to superglue. I always seem to get more of it somewhere else than where I want it. When it dried, horrible white marks appeared inside the canopy and a small fingerprint appeared (grrrr). I tried a cotton bud with acetone nail polish remover and at first it looked like it was working, but after 10 mins it all dried out and the marks are still there. Any suggestions please? Material behind the canopy is Solarfilm Solite. Thanks Edited By David Cooke 1 on 24/12/2017 20:45:51 Edited By David Cooke 1 on 24/12/2017 20:46:57
  6. David Cooke 1
    Thanks for the example charger. Looks just the ticket!
  7. David Cooke 1
    I can only see this being a bad idea if the transmitter is switch on. The switch isolates the battery/charger from the electronics. Even then I don't think its that bad since everything goes through that liner reg, then worst case, the transmitter is on and the charger is applying an errant high cell series voltage. You'd be dumping power into the linear reg - and not very much since its only 80mA draw from the linear reg....? Even with a wall charger, you're still exposing it to the electronics but only when the power switch is slid to on position. Having said all that(!) I think though I will put the diode in as it gives me some protection in that I'm not exposing battery direct to the DC jack. For a constant current charger I would just use a bench power supply and set current limit.
  8. David Cooke 1
    I have already performed the modification. The -ve spring contacts were very badly corroded and even caused -ve terminal corrosion on the Molex power connector on the main PCB. The spring contacts had to go so I replaced with a battery pack. NiMH Eneloops last for quite some time! Even with a backlight modification, the current draw is ~ 80mA. The transmitter electronics are powered from a 3.3V linear regulator. I could not determine the minimum voltage drop over the regulator but verified with a PSU that the voltage warning comes on at ~4.1V I think it was. I have shorted the diode and will try tonight!!!
  9. David Cooke 1
    After suffering dry cell leak in my dormant DX6i, I fitted a pre-wired 4xAA Eneloop battery pack. My question is how to charge them without the Spektrum SPM9550 charger as I believe its just a simple constant current output and not sensing the battery voltage (to determine end of charge). I say this because poking inside the Dx6i with a DVM and by PCB trace inspection, I can see that there is a series diode from the charge socket to the battery. I guess this is to prevent connecting the charger the wrong way. However, it means that the charger cannot see the battery voltage. I have a Sigma EQ Mini charger that can charge NiMH (not sure how it knows how many cells there are! It must be sensing the battery voltage and I know that it looks at the battery dV/dt to determine end of charge). I'm thinking I need to therefore short that diode out. Any electronics guy be able to comment on this? Thanks
  10. David Cooke 1
    Yes, that is how I'm doing it. I was wondering if there were an tips. I guess you are trying to project that windscreen bottom curve on the plan to the curved fuselage surface, so maybe wrapping paper over the fuselage top curved surface and with the fuselage orientated like the plan, try to draw the windscreen curve on the paper. Its hard to explain in words...
  11. David Cooke 1
    I have a plan that has no template for the windscreen. The top of the fuselage section (F2 formers) is almost a semi-circle so it makes it harder to draw your own template. Other than trial and error (and I'm having lots of errors), is there a more accurate way of drawing a template? I actually have the plans drawn up in TurboCAD but I'm a beginner with the tool. Thanks
  12. David Cooke 1

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  13. David Cooke 1
    I'm looking for suggestions for 1/16th sheet rudder and elevators please. The model is 24" wingspan so only light loading on the control surfaces. Blenderm tape would do the job but I'm looking for hinges that won't be seen. One idea I read is floppy disk material (with the oxide surface scraped off). Thanks
  14. David Cooke 1
    A very quick wave with slow heat air gun and they've gone
  15. David Cooke 1

    Wrinkles Gone

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    Wrinkles Gone
  16. David Cooke 1
    I don't enjoying covering my proud balsa creations. I've only built a few model with Solite and got wrinkles in all of them. I thought I would try using a hot air gun as well as an iron and it has definitely shrunk better and I am pleased with the open frame results. However,I always have problems with the wing tips / compound curves. I'd appreciate some advice on how to get the wrinkles out of this. Its only a 24" wing and a little delicate. Have I over shrunk the film so the wrinkles are not repairable? Thanks.
  17. David Cooke 1

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  18. David Cooke 1
    Has anyone built the Infant 60? I bought the plans and wondering if the are any tips on electrifying it and making it 3ch control..... Under cambered wings could be a pain with Solite.... Thanks David
  19. David Cooke 1
    This comment does not help with round edges but if the wood is light, I find women's nail files handy. You get sanding 2 grades and they're very light and easy to handle. Don't apply too much pressure or they'll flex.
  20. David Cooke 1
    Ensure a photo copier prints 1:1. Sometimes I'm able to get PDFs of the plans. I then print/photocopy the parts, cut them out and very lightly pritt stick them onto the wood and cut out. I find this handy for 2D balsa shaping too - like a nose. I sand in one axis with paper print/photo copy on each end of the wood and repeat in the next axis.
  21. David Cooke 1
    Can anyone recommend a book that teaches RC aerodynamics, balsa built techniques etc for designing your own model aircraft? Thanks David
  22. David Cooke 1
    After building a few club size models as a kid, I find it more convenient to build and fly vintage style electric 30" size models casually where I can (our of harm's way). TBH I'm so wrapped up in the engineering day job I get little time to commit to the hobby. I do though miss the Super 60s and Flair Cubs and wondered about just buying the kits and sitting on them for - lets say years.... Is there a shelf life for kits? Given that you can buy vintage kits still and indeed fly old models I'm guessing its OK to sit on them.... They'd be stored under a bed upstairs so not too bad an environment. Thoughts anyone? Thanks
  23. David Cooke 1
    An old boss has given me some of his father's RC engines to enjoy. TBH I'm a small 30-36" vintage builder so not sure I'll get use out of the bigger .40 engines. After 20 year gap I just use brushless and last used an IC as a teenager. I'd like to get this little DC engine going. I know nothing of diesels. Can someone identify the engine? Its a 6x3 prop and weighs about 42g with the prop. I'm planning on soaking in glow fuel then disassembling and cleaning. I'm unsure what fuel to use (where to get it) (I know its a "diesel". What is the port on the back of the crank for? Is a fuel tank supposed to go there? Unlikely I can get one these days. Fuel presumably goes into the carb - that little bit I do remember as a kid Thanks David
  24. David Cooke 1

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  25. David Cooke 1

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