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Andy Hat

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  1. I like the cheap Emax motors but you need to ensure the cooling is adequate. As part of my "electric motor training" I killed TWO BL2826 in the same model. Initially, I blamed the motors having badly attached magnets, cheap materials etc. After I added proper airflow/cooling, the third Emax motor still runs great after many flights. A posher motor might have survived without better cooling but it doesn't mean that you shouldn't have it. It's tempting to convert IC models to electric by just sticking in an 'equivalent' brushless motor but the models I have converted (quite a few now) didn't allow for adequate cooling by default. Some models that are designed for electric still lack good cooling. With IC, I would swap my few 'treasured and valuable' IC engines between them. With electric, the setups are so cheap these days (as are the electronics, servos etc), you can have many models ready to fly. There's a place for Hackers and the pricy stuff but the quality and reliability of cheap motors is so good and they are almost (dare I say it) disposable.
  2. David - is this the plan you got with your Mk1 plan packs?
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  4. Excellent - many thanks. Now I just need some Classic Wot 4 decals..
  5. I'm confident it's not a look-alike. The slopes are hard to see from the photo angles Does a modern 'classic' have a different fuse to the mk3 tapered wing? Could it be a Mk2 - which I think had the straight 'classic' wing? (is a 'classic' a Mk2?) I have a set of Mk2 decals (thanks Bob!) but I'm not keen to put them on if it's a Mk3 Classic.     Edited By Andy Hat on 24/05/2015 19:28:42
  6. Before I put some Wot 4 logos on this, I'd like to be sure which mark kit it is. Please ignore the homemade decals. Initially, I thought it was a Mk1 because it has a 12" wing chord but after extensive searching, I think I found out the following: Mk1 released as a 'plan pack'? between 1977 and 1981 Mk2 - 1981-? Square wing full kit with die-cut parts Mk3 (date?) tapered wing. more upright rudder hinge? Is a 'Classic' a Mk2 and a Mk3 a tapered wing? This one seems to have a steeper rudder angle than others I can find and it is made from die-cut parts. For some more photos, the buildlog is here: http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=107173 What mark is this one?
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  13. Thanks! No problem: Motor XYH 5055 580kv, YEP 80A ESC, tried 13x8 and 13x10 on 4S, 13x10 on 5S went over the motor's amp limit but 13x8 was fine. 13x10 on 4S gives a slow vertical but 13x8 on 5S is super vertical - very nice! Flew with 4S 3000&3300mah and 5S 3200mah. Didn't need to add any nose or tail weight. Not sure where the exact CG is meant to be but it balanced under the thickest part of the wing. Inverted flight didn't need much down elevator to maintain so I think it's about right. Very happy with my purchase
  14. All done! Flies really well. Lots of cooling 8) The hatch works well. Anyone got a spare (non cut) cowl or some decals?
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  19. I'll use a 4S or 5S. 4S will be flyable but 5S will get it vertical, hopefully. One thing I forgot to try, before starting to cover it, is to balance it fully loaded with a battery. Hopefully it'll be OK.
  20. I've sheeted the bottom of the fuse. This shows the repairs to the splits and large hole that was in the tail. Slots cut for closed loop and elevator pushrod. Wing mounted. You may be able to see that whoever started building this put the ply former at an angle. It would have been messy to remove and fix so I padded it front and back to 'straighten' it. Hatch is for battery access. Will add a canopy hatch or magnets, not decided yet. Drilled firewall for mounting a 5055 motor. Just glued the tail on,making sure it was all square. I'll have to wait a day before I can do anything else but it's getting there. I think this is a Mark 1 since the wing chord is 12" - is that correct? If so, this could have been sitting in someone's shed since 1977!
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