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Danny Fenton

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Everything posted by Danny Fenton

  1. So that's the wings and fus rubbed back and ready for some silver, but first I need to figure out these zips.... Cheers Danny
  2. Thanks Cymaz, i will use klass kote over the top. The issue is especially inside the cowl, if the outer epoxy layer is breached the celly primer will let go and paint flake off. I have seen it on a control line model, though that was subjected to hogh nitro. Cheers Danny
  3. Hi Nick I am sticking to my trusty U-Pol P-88 cellulose based primer/filler, but with hindsight for the cowl area I should have used an epoxy primer. In the engine bay I have introduced a layer that is not fuel proof. It will get an epoxy over the top but the glow fuel could de laminate the paint. Cheers Danny
  4. Some size "0" zips arrived today, I think I can do something with them..... Set the garage up for spraying and coat some primer on the model. I am concerned as the Solartex rib tapes have not adhered well to the doped Ceconite. But in a way that's what the primer coat is for, to highlight problems. Now I have a blank canvas to work too. Wings are also done, just not much to see but more greyness! I am still mildly concerned about paint bonding, never an issue before but this Ceconite worries me.... Cheers Danny
  5. About to start looking at some detailing and have been mulling over zips for access panels. Anybody come up with a way to produce convincing replicas at 1/5th scale? I have a few ideas, but am always open to suggestions ? Cheers Danny
  6. Hi Nick, the Reeves 1/4 scale tapes I have used are a gnats nadger over 12mm Cheers Danny
  7. Thanks Manish, have to see what the shipping will be ? the last time I checked that link it didn't work. Good news. Yes I was in the throws of adding tapes. However perimeter tapes are already present, the Pink-It tape is thin and clear. But I have added more tapes ? I thought I would try the Reeves sticky stitches, not impressed..... Cheers Danny
  8. Thanks Nick, they are a little untidy and spacing not as even as it shouldbe, which is not really right, but they will do. The tapes you see on the wings/ailerons and tail-plane/fin/rudder are 1/4 scale Mick Reeves items, believe it or not the pitch was closer to 1/5th than 1/4. On the fuselage I have used some lovely tapes from Gary Sibbert, his company Pink-It produced them. However Gary has called it a day and they are no longer available. It was mooted that a US company had taken the Sibbert tooling but alas the link I was given doesn't work so I am not sure if that is the case. anyway the rib tape process is covered on my You Tube channel if you get bored, much easier to show than to write about. Cheers Danny
  9. Xoar 13 x 8 arrived today, suits the model just right. Shame its spinning the wrong way ? struggling to find excuses not to spray some primer...... Though I need to figure how to make a stumpy spinner cone to cover that prop nut and crank-shaft thread........ Cheers Danny
  10. Lol no I didn't but it doesnt surprise me. Thx not sure when i might need that nugget ?
  11. Sorted the tailplane rigging, used the Reeves fork ends. cheers Danny
  12. Ailerons I can understand Craig, as you are trying to introduce an element of drag and cause yaw on the upgoing aileron. Thus balancing the turn with minimal rudder. Elevator and rudder are a different kettle of fish. The offset hinge is to make the moment arm shorter and therefore the forces lighter. However the leading edge of the surface, (unlike an aileron) should not introduce drag and protrude into the airflow. Here is the elevator of my P-51 as an example. Ignore the counterbalance weight towards the tip. I would ignore the funny stuff the modern 3D capable aircraft get up to Perhaps others would like to comment, I am no expert and bow to smarter peeps than me. Cheers Danny
  13. Not sure I interpret that the way you do Craig. But if you are happy then who am I to say. Cheers Danny
  14. Hi Craig, I am not sure I understand those pics. The way you have moved the surface is showing a great deal of elevator leading edge into the airflow, that indicates the hinge point is way too far to the rear. Hopefully I have just misinterpreted your pics? Cheers Danny
  15. Actually I have realised exactly why the flaps wont move manually, the servo arm is in line with the horn at full down travel, ie mechanical lock. Obvious really, anyway it is nice to test wing servos with the cable ? Cheers Danny
  16. Hi Nick, I am not sure if it is the servos I use, or the horns. Things like flaps protest, I think because the horns are so short on this. The ailerons can be forcefully moved, but not the flaps. The joys of making such lightweight fittings I guess. Cheers Danny
  17. One of the disadvantages of using Ashlok's for connecting multiple servos, as I have for the wings on my Auster, is you have to make a break-out lead to be able to use a servo tester to move things when not connected to the model, in this case without wings attached. Not difficult but saves assembling the model to move surfaces for spraying. Cheers Danny
  18. Hi Hugh, welcome to the build. I did something similar on mine, building a box that followed the line of the bearers. You might need to beef it up a little for the Laser. I have taken a picture with a ruler alongside, hopefully this might give you enough information to make a decision. Outlined is the battery box/engine mount. Its not an easy build bur very rewarding. Cheers Danny
  19. Absolutely! And thanks, fun so far, itching to paint....
  20. I have also settled on a subject: Maybe a bit plain to some, but it's how I remember Auster's looking when I was growing up. Cheers Danny
  21. Weighed the Auster this evening, no paint yet. Just paint and a prop is all that's missing. Oh and a Rx battery. 3.94kg 8.7lbs . Leaves me a kilo to still be eligible for light scale. Finished the struts today, amazing how they have locked what were quite floppy wings. Set to around 1.5 degrees Dihedral, looks about right. C of G about right with no fuel and no Rx batt, so scope to adjust. Cheers Danny
  22. I know that clamping as a "Merlyn lock" or very similar. I have used them many times. First seen in use by the late Merlyn Graves, a terrific modeller. In this case they are holding the wing panels for my Piper Apache together. Looking good Craig ? Cheers Danny
  23. Stunning John, well done. I look forward to pointing my camera at that at a show during the next few months ? Cheers Danny
  24. Of the Cub? It is 84" a quite early kit, but looked complete when I got it. Didn't really look I wanted the Auster, not quite sure why I bought it lol Cheers Danny
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