Andy J

Cant see that method working Paul, so given the beech engine bearers are a good 3/4 of an inch in depth tempted to go down the route of using a long pan head self tapper with a fall back plan of drilling through the engine bay underside skin to fit conventional M4 or M3 cap head bolts.

Engine mounts onto a pair of beach bearers but there is no way that I can get a bolt given the underside of the front engine bay is fully sheeted. Only option would be to drill through the sheeting to allow a screw to be inserted from the underside but reluctant to do that.

Acquired a vintage Flair model that appears to have its original engine secured using wood screws. Certainly have never used such a method before. If I do go down the route of using an identical method to fit a Laser 75 am I likely to regret it.

Well I tried my method and the battery does seem to be holding its charge now.

Will not be applying a high charge current Paul. Thought we I saw the post suggesting flashing that a web search using that term would not prove useful. So I searched for NiCad recovery which took me first to the Battery University which suggested using the 0.4 to 0.6v per cell discharge and then to another that recommended the freezer. No harm in trying both as little to lose.

Had not thought that the battery could be recovered, so after a quick read on the methods available I will try freezing the battery for 24Hrs and then a discharge to below 0.6v.

Well tapped off the cap but no further forward as how the cell is changed. Thought the outer shell was a container for a sub C but it appears that the outer shell is the battery and the sprung lead is simply soldered onto the battery. Certainly thinking it now will be easier to buy another.

Does anyone recognise the glowstick as pictured below and can advise how to access the battery. End cap appears to be firmly attached so unsure if its screwed on or is a tight push fit. Need to change the battery as it no longer holds its charge.

Need to apply some vinyl RAF roundels on a Bristol F2B but the newly printed versions are very bright colours and out of keeping with the model. Is there any method of fading the vinyl or purchasing any printed to look vintage.

No it was second hand Jon so it likely is very old. Photo was posted on June 14 in this thread and identified as a 75. So what valve clearances do I aim for?

About to put my Laser 75 back into service in a Flair Bristol F2B. Yes I know the recommended engine would be an 80 but the 75 is the largest I have available. So have not had the engine apart since I purchased it about 10 years ago so thought I would at least have a peak inside. Having removed the front crankshaft assembly was pleasantry surprised to find it pretty clean inside so declined to dismantle the engine further. However I will check the tappets, so what clearance do you suggest Jon? Also I assume a 13x6 is ok for this application or can I get away with a 14inch prop?

Made a start on a wooden plug for the cowl but then I looked at the price of A3 1.5mm Styrene sheets I was surprised at its cost so have reverted to a balsa construction which will be non removable. Lost foam could have been an alternative method but given I need two cowls then this would have used up a significant amount of my remaining stock of blue foam.

Good idea Ron but that's not going to work as would need a ramakin 2.25inches diam at the base increasing to about 3.5 inches and 4 inches in depth. Still think a vacuumed moulded cowl will be the better option but don't know what opaque plastic type I should be using. is it PET-G?

Having now acquired a second Enya 25 now need to think about how to build the engine cowls. With the engine mounted on its side and the exhaust on the bottom it struck me that this layout would result in an untidy cowl appearance and quite a complicated structure if I constructed it from balsa. So decided to invert the engine resulting in what will be a cleaner installation and visually more appealing with the protruding cylinder head now on the bottom. What I now need to resolve is how the construct the cowl. If I go for a balsa format with a ply front ring I cant see how I can make it removable and thus any engine removal would be impossible. Thus the other option is to go for a fiberglass of plastic cowl. However I have never made a fiberglass cowl before and the steps of making a mould seem very difficult. Therefore a moulded plastic type is likely a better option as I do have a Heath Robinson vacuum mould jig which I used to form a canopy for another model. Assume I need to make the cowl plug from wood but a little lost as to what type of plastic sheet to buy that will hold its shape and be able to be drawn onto the mould using only the suction from a domestic vacuum cleaner.

Thanks all, will go down the route of using a suitable size bolt with a brass or stainless steel sleeve, so will have to see if I have in stock as just put an order into Model Fixings yesterday.

Making up a two wheel undercarriage for a 60inch twin using a flat dural bar 3/4 x 1/8. The query is what is the best approach to make and attach the axle pins for say a 2 3/4 inch wheel. Had thought I would be able to buy some suitable axles from HK but they are on back order so need to think of another approach that will survive the loads applied. Assume the axle is going to need some form of shoulder on the outside edge with a short threaded section on one end to fix or pass through a clearance hole on the dural with the axle being secured by a suitable lock nut. Making these certainly would be possible, but its not going to be a 5min job so looking for other suggestions.

The rain has stopped here so is it safe to go flying now? Thought I had better ask for some advice as seldom seem to get any stick time these days.

Sorted with a very nice condition engine from Jeff2wings.

Bit too late for the hot water technique as used fiberglass matting to strengthen the joint with a light weight car filler on top to get back to a reasonable appearance. Mount mount still looks considerably offset to the right so will need to attack that area with a new ply plate once the nose joint has been smoothed down.

Thanks Ace, will check once I have the nose fully glued back on. Currently the upper section forward of the air vents doesn't align at all so I will have to think what can be done to persuade the foam to come together to get a semi reasonable joint.

In the process of repairing my Cularis which has had the nose broken off several times in the past. Whilst the nose has gone back on I seem to have ended up with a significant right thrust and yet more deformation of the original foam. Cant recall what was the original set up was but certainly the glider was a complete pig on the last outing with the with the wing dropping in the launch sequence and the model eventually tip stalling and breaking off the nose once again. Will spend some time on this repair adding yet more glass fibre to get a stronger joint at the nose break but unclear if I should correct the thrust line to be only 1 or 2 degrees to the right.

Wish I had purchased a Dubro slot cutter years ago. Very simple to use.

Thanks Denis

Is there any way to determine if an Enya 25 is a plain bearing type or one with a ball race....without part dismantling the engine.

Did see that engine Jonathan, so its certainly an option.