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Andy J
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Everything posted by Andy J
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More inclined to go with this laser link given those cheap units are not rated correctly. Plus its suppose to be from the UK. Edited By Andy Joyce on 06/12/2019 19:48:29
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Flynn How are you getting on with your 6W cheap laser? Tempted to purchase the same model but thinking you only get what you pay for given similar models are upwards of £70.
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Let the fun begin!
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Thanks Flynn for the info on the Arduino shield. Delivery of the Uno and Shield was very quick and now have the board up and running with GRBL. Second order now placed for shorting links to improve the accuracy and to allow me to clone one axis. Offer made for a cheap frame on flea bay so will see if the seller bites. Had thought they may be on sale today but cant find any special offers.
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Thanks for the advice Flynn. Need to find a circuit diagram of the shield as have never worked with stepper motors before. Also just noted those shorting links under each driver board. Out of interest what do these control? Was doing a search tonight to also understand how to connect 2 motors for one axis but have yet to see an example of the wiring. Anyway the first task is to get the Uno programmed with GRBL.
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Posted by FlyinFlynn on 12/11/2019 14:32:19: Andy - if you go for the eleksmaker pro without a laser I can recommend this 6W laser. I have recently fitted one to my engraver and it has just been reduced in price to $37.50 delivered using ali standard shipping (20 days). If you still need more power they also do a 20 Watt version for $108!... As for the make or type of frame they all have their drawbacks which become apparent when you use them and most people seem to modify the basic frame to improve matters.....but that is half the fun! If you have a cnc router or a 3D printer you can design and make your own with the aluminium profiles readily available. The electronics also.. I would recommend an arduino uno and a cnc shield and run GRBL firmware but many manage very well with the stock eleksmaker firmware and electronics. Taking your advice Flynn and ordered a Uno + CNC shield. Have used Arduino's before for a glider vario so will first verify I can interface to the board, before I purchase a frame.
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Yes Profili 2.30 does allow dxf files but only for a simple rib. Ribs created in the wing panel management tad which has far more options can only be exported in the professional registered version. In addition when you export an Profili dxf file to Inkscape, it flags an error message and then fails to load. This can be corrected by exporting Profili dxf files to Autocad and then exporting a new dxf output file to inkscape to generate the cutting file.
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Flynn out of interest what program are you using to produce aerofoils wing ribs. My version of Profili will not produce dxf files so semi stumped how to get a suitable output ready for cutting.
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Thanks Flynn, Re installed inkscape and followed a set of instructions I found on the web to generate gcode which it did, but what a faff. Will go looking for dfx2gcode as Inkscape does not seem to be a User friendly interface at all. Andy
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Thanks Flynn Was tempted to go down the Eleskmaker route if only to ensure I could get working software. However down loaded their application last night and the input requires gcode. At a loss at the moment as how to produce gcode files on the cheap. My version of autocad 2104, freecad, inkscape nor wintopo appear not to have the ability to produce the required output. Thanks for the link re the 6W laser as was going to buy a GNC without a laser first just to see if I could get a working interface going, with perhaps a mod to add a 3rd axis for cutting slightly thicker objects.
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Spent most of the day pondering over e##bay and bang##good to try to make a decision on what to buy. Gut feeling is that the Eleksmaker pro at 2.5W is too small, so thinking 5.5W would be better but its a complete minefield regarding products available. Most of which lack any proper specifications. Seen copies of the A3 pro with a 5.5W laser which have a neat wiring arrangement, but the seller has a very low score so reluctant to use. Open to any suggested source for a suitable product. Otherwise Black Friday cant be that far away to see is the standard Eleskmaker goes on sale.
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Posted by Martyn K on 08/11/2019 17:46:15: Posted by Andy Joyce on 07/11/2019 18:36:41: Posted by christophe dauvergne on 04/11/2019 16:33:07: Hello how many passes does it take to cut 2mm balsa Can you give your complete setup as well as the software you use for the cut. Regards christophe Think this must be a closed forum topic, as I also did not get a response to a general query on the topic. Still from what I can see it looks feasible cutting balsa and thin ply so have re-started learning Autocad to allow me to draw objects in CAD. Think without an ability to generate drawings, one of these cutters are going to be money wasted. Not closed at all. I think we are still experimenting. I am avoiding using full power. At 2000mm/min, I need 2 passes on 0.8mm balsa and 4 passes on 1.5mm balsa so guessing 8 passes. Regarding ply, I still haven't got through 3mm liteply but am upto 20 passes and about 2/3 through at 500mm/min. Still 80% power. Martyn Thanks very much Martyn. Still pondering if this is another toy that will not be used as have too many unfinished models without starting yet another Out on interest has anyone tried cutting covering film such as solarfilm to make complex shapes. Andy
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Posted by christophe dauvergne on 04/11/2019 16:33:07: Hello how many passes does it take to cut 2mm balsa Can you give your complete setup as well as the software you use for the cut. Regards christophe Think this must be a closed forum topic, as I also did not get a response to a general query on the topic. Still from what I can see it looks feasible cutting balsa and thin ply so have re-started learning Autocad to allow me to draw objects in CAD. Think without an ability to generate drawings, one of these cutters are going to be money wasted.
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For piano wire I purchased a 150W iron from the far east on ##bay. Think it was less than £12. Quality is excellent and easily solders piano wire of any size. Search for; 100/150/200/300W Electric Soldering Iron High Power Copper Soldering Chisel Tip. For silver soldering large items I use a standard plumbers torch but this can take some time to bring larger items to a cherry red. For small items such as 1/4" thin wall stainless steel tube I use a simple cooks torch. The trick to all soldering is to select a good quality solder and its related flux. For me you cant beat good old 60/40.for most jobs. Piano wire can be very difficult to solder with a small iron, which I think is due to the carbon content. Threaded push rods also seem to suffer the same issue.
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Will go digging into my paint cupboard as sure I purchased some balsaloc many months ago.
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Came across this thread and it sparked my interest in laser cutters again. Looked at one of the far east 40W units some time ago, so now surprised that a 3W laser can cut ply. If I was to purchase a cheap kit to give it a go, what should I be looking at purchasing?
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Sorry yes it is solartex. New digital iron arrived today so gave it a quick go. Certainly it is a lot better than my travel iron but the solartex still marks if the iron is held to aggressively to the airframe to get it to stick down. Using a dab technique seems to work far better then sliding the iron back and forth.
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Fieseler Storch
Andy J replied to Martin McIntosh's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Well done Martin, at least you have a completed model. Still have a long way to go on my build which has a slightly larger wing span of around 86". Tank has been constructed and the radio gear is now well tucked away under the cockpit floor. Currently stuck on the wing struts as need something strong as it will be functional and will take the flight and landing loads. Edited By Andy Joyce on 25/10/2019 17:16:08 -
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Well taken the advice given and have now purchased a digital prolux PX1363GB iron. Will report on how it performs in due course.
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Yes it definitely is Solarfilm, purchased about 2 - 3 years ago. Do also have some very old silver solarfilm which must be 10 + years old and that suffers also from the same problem in terms of its inability to stick down to hardwood and surface marking. Given the poor results so far, will now purchase a proper film sealing iron more because the lead on the travel iron is now showing signs of wear and tear but have little faith that this will solve the issue. However I may be proved wrong! If I ditch the 10m roll of solarfilm, what fabric covering does anyone recommend given I date back to good old days using fabric and shrinking dope in the 60's for all models greater than 60" wing span. Model that I am working on is a 1/4 Flair Tiger Moth which will use a GF38 petrol power plant.
