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Martin McIntosh

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  1. My 1/4 scale Stampe started with a 155 but my Spit had a 180 in it which was far too powerful so I swapped them over. 180 every time for the Stampe/ Tiggy, they just give that little extra, even on the same prop.
  2. Still not flown mine or tried again due to health issues but may have another go soon. It may have gone OK from the first test taxi but I aborted it `cos the noseleg was dodgy. Next time out the patch had been cut and the grass clippings immediately blocked the intakes. Someone on here was going to try mesh filters but I never did hear if they worked.
  3. You will need the timing set to high for inrunners. Not familiar with 4 Max ESCs, I think I used YEP ones with a card.
  4. I have a couple of Tiger Moths, one from the old Mercury plan and the other one rather larger. The Mercury one refuses to turn without rudder input and the other is less affected. They both have ailerons with 2:1 up/down and on the larger one I have about a 50% mix to rud. but only when it is on low rate; on high it is not coupled so that full rud. is available for stall turns, spins, etc. All the Lancs of various sizes that I have flown needed a good fistful of rud. to turn at all.
  5. I have probably been on this thread before, but after some bad experiences with anything over 1900 mA/h I would say ditch them. High capacity NiMh packs are fine for a steady low discharge such as in a Tx but cannot deliver the oomph required by servos, especially that so many are now the so called `digital` ones. Also, they are not designed for a high rate of charge and are more suited to the wall wart overnight type. I changed to 5 cell Eneloops and the problems disappeared. I found that a charge rate of 600 mA/h seems ideal, and a capacity test at 200 mA gave an accurate reading. I no longer buy these and have replaced most, as they got tired, with 2 cell LiFe 6.6V, via a regulator if needed. They are cheap and reliable and do not self discharge even after a year or two of disuse. Even an 1100 pack will easily cope with six servos.
  6. If you arrange the o/p arm to be in line with the servo body there will be zero force on it when the lights are deployed. I always set up flaps like that, having learned by burning out four retract servos on the bomb doors on my version of the model.
  7. Problem solved thanks, neither of us recognised it. Its huge weight (2lb 2oz) would make it ideal for a warbird.
  8. A clubmate gave me an engine to look at and if possible run. He bought it as part of a job lot. It says 91 on the rocker cover, Hi-Max and made in England on the side and has an Irvine carb, the crankcase being die cast and has a very thick backplate/mount. The exhaust stub looks similar to SC (Just Engines?) and it has rear pushrods. Trouble getting photos from my cameras at the moment but will try. Any ideas please since it is new to me?
  9. Glad that someone else has observed this Andy, it could well be the cause of many issues.
  10. That reminds me of a problem I came across concerning the Rx signal wire voltage level. I bought some more of the HK MCA series retracts but when connected to any Orange Rx they did not work, earlier ones having been fine, but were OK on JR/Spektrum. I checked the signal levels on a `scope and JR`s were at 5V but Orange only 3V which was now not enough. The retract amps must have had a component change for some reason. I do not have any Futaba gear so cannot comment on it but there may be a similar problem with that and some servos.
  11. M.H., Strangely not JR in this case. They are HiTec 82 mg`s. Never had any problems with them in the past on other models. I also use a lot of Corona 939`s both analogue and digi. Due to availability at the time my Super Aeromaster wings have two each of normal digi and HV. The speed is the same in each case on 6.6V so I think that the HV ones are just regulated down.
  12. Happened to one of my models more than once, with electric power to start with, overvoltage from the BEC being the cause. When the voltage stabilised after a minute or two it was OK. Changed to i/c power but retained a UBEC to stabilise the 6.6V from the LiFe pack and the problem returned. Lowering the UBEC output from 5.5 to 5V did the trick. Some servos do not like even a tad over 5V.
  13. I fear that yours is going to gain a lot of weight if you mean to sheet the whole wing in 1/8th, double the weight of the skin shown on the plan and there will be an awful lot of it. That massive front tube will certainly not need ply either side of the ribs. One piece at the centre and outer followed by 1/8th balsa on one side only for the rest since the loading will be quite low. The inner ribs against the fus. take most of it.
  14. What do you intend to sheet the wing with? I seem to remember that the plan states 1/16th (original electric version) but it needs 3/32nd otherwise your fingers will keep going through. I once met a guy who did his in 1/16th then regretted it.
  15. No soldering involved. The shells can have the crimped connectors pushed back in.
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