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Martin McIntosh

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Everything posted by Martin McIntosh

  1. I have not used clevises for many years now, just mini ball links to get round that problem amongst others such as overly tight fits. The Aeromaster wings are quite thin so standard servos would protrude a fair bit. Very much simpler to fit thin wing ones, a simple mount with three screws. No need to add weight by fitting covers. Taped and glued may be OK on foamies but that thing is going to be quick and heavy so that is a no no.
  2. I have a Super Aeromaster and use 4 Corona DMG aileron servos, simple to fit but I did once get a couple of duff ones out of the many in use. If you are prepared to spend a little more on, say, metal cased ones then you would do well to go down that route.
  3. CA by itself does not stick to carbon and easily scrapes off. I do use it on rods at times but firstly spray all parts with Polyolefin Primer (from CPC). This allows you to glue almost anything to anything else, even polythene fuel tanks. So called 2mm rods can have a shallow thread put on which aids adhesion. JB Weld works quite well. That is a large motor and will cause much vibration; similarly the model will be large and will require rather more robust rods than you would put on a trainer. The suggestion above to use 5x3 tube with a 3mm threaded rod inside is bullet proof and simple so in your case I would recommend that.
  4. Rather than using the Tx differential function I start by setting all four servo arms forward to give mechanical diff. as you should do. Each can then be tweaked as needed, 2:1 diff. is a good starting point.
  5. Those detailed pics from Cymaz show the tail to be at a +ve incidence. Unfortunately mine was built from an original Precedent kit with the 1/4sq. spruce longerons level all the way to the fin post, resulting in the tail being at 0 deg. This meant that it will only fly with a huge amount of down elevator, although that does not detract from the performance, just looks weird on the ground. Because there is 1/16th ply from the fin through the tail it was not possible to correct this.
  6. A classic aero on electric power? Sheer sacrilege. Go to the naughty step. Tried my 48" Dalotel on it once and despite more power it flew like a pig compared with an OS 25 FX in it. I have tried this swap on several other models including The Ohmen and a Limbo dancer with the same result, just don`t ask me why but they seem to get rather reluctant to change heading, possibly due to the gyroscopic effect of the fast spinning outer rotor.
  7. Since you are fitting ailerons I would suggest coupled ail/rud with about a 30-50% mix. This makes turning much easier. I make this switchable with either the mix sw. or mixed on low rate rudder only so that full throw is available for stall turns.
  8. I did the same quite a few years ago using the plan from a Mercury kit. Had to guess at some of the formers which were not shown. Originally fitted a Mills but the comp. screw was rather inaccessible and insisted on unscrewing in flight, resulting in `engine still running` landings; it was tricky to start being inverted. Eventually electrified it (sorry). With a 3s 1000 and a tiny Orange caseless Rx + esc there was very little room left inside. Yours is obviously rud/ele which will be fine because they refuse to turn with ailerons alone. With all that wing area you need not worry about a little extra weight.
  9. Glad to hear that you sorted it. Once one of these is set there should never be a need to touch it again (on the same fuel).
  10. I used these successfully some years ago then later obtained a box full of them in various states. They must have been made in different bike sheds because although they all came from 60`s the parts like sliders were not all the same thickness. Once the spraybar has been removed it is very difficult to re assemble in the right place. I thought I knew the things quite well but gave up trying to get one to work properly on an identical motor to that used previously.
  11. I was about to suggest a 4-Max battery but was beaten to it, they really are a better option to the ones you are using. I have a Hawk, 90mm 12s fan, as yet unflown and despite some mods the static thrust is very disappointing indeed.
  12. Thanks Phil but the channels on the Interlink DX are totally different to a normal Tx and the ones quoted for rates are correct. When I edit it they are set correctly and `saved as` for that model, but despite that they end up on the default elevator rate switch controlling all three at once. When I buddy up a JR Tx I can do what I wish but it would mean a different memory for every model.
  13. From what I remember of mine and from the results of testing I would say that the motor position as shown on the plan was pushing the nose down. I have a HK FPV powered glider which is similar and the thrust line is considerably up at the rear.
  14. Does anybody have this and has got round my problem please? No replies so far.
  15. When I said `Battery Doctor` I meant the one which has that trade name, about the size of a lipo checker. They discharge any high cells to the lowest voltage one, although it takes a long time and unless you keep an eye on it they will continue until all are flat-dead! Cheapo chargers like the B6 can be miles out when it comes to balancing; I know, I have two. I would say that the down thrust angle on the Siebel should be increased.
  16. If you have access to a Battery Doctor then this would balance the cells much more accurately than the average charger. You are setting it to balance charge are you not? That 4.3V is rather worrying since an overvoltage is when they tend to blow up in flames.
  17. Most of my later models were based on the Clipper construction and layout. 45% cg does not seem too far out to me. They usually need an once or so of lead at the tail end.
  18. Never could get mine in the air very easily and when I did it flew like a pig. I think that the thrust line was at too shallow an angle because the nose dug in on take off. Still got the airframe kicking about somewhere if anyone wants a freebie spare.
  19. Clipper 111 was my first proper F3A model. I built two, the other for Jim Davis. Good job because at my first comp I got shot down by a rogue homebuilt Tx, but Jim let me fly his totally untrimmed one and got 4th against the likes of Clive Weller, Mike Bone etc. HP61 for power.
  20. I have a problem with RF9.5s. I purchased a 9.5 with DX controller from a clubmate who decided that it was not for him but unfortunately had registered it. Got round that by swapping the s/n for a Steam key and now have it on my PC (W11). My issue is that no matter what I try, the rates and expo remain on one switch and cannot get them onto separate switches on ch5, 10 and 11. Have been round all the other forum posts to see if I am missing something but it stays on one switch which is of little use to me. Any ideas please? If I connect the DX then buddy it up to a JR DSX9 I can then get everything to work as I want but it defeats the object of buying the complete package. By the way, I also put it on another PC on W8.1 but a message came up on Steam to say that it would no longer work as of 1/1/24. Any help to get round this would be much appreciated since due to severe health problems it is the only sort of `flying` I shall be capable of in the forseeable future.
  21. M.C., it looks like you just caught them in time, I tried that and was not so lucky. Regarding storage, most of my Tx`s have LiFe packs and they of course would not get that because they are (were) in constant use, so the Rx ones get treated the same. I was trying to clear up why the OP could not get much charge into `stored` packs since they probably not actually at that level.
  22. There is absolutely no point in putting these to a lower storage voltage even if your charger is a very clever one which could do that. The chemistry is way different to that of a Lipo or Li-Ion pack. As I said above, I have some which have not been used from a full charge for a few years and are still full. For peace of mind I always check by doing a discharge/charge cycle manually before using again. A recharge on these only takes 1 hr i.e. a 1500 mA/hr pack is charged at 1.5A.
  23. Whatever your charger may tell you, you cannot put LiFe packs on a storage charge since the voltage will always be 3.3V/cell. I try to leave mine fully charged and have several Zippy packs which have seen no action for a few years. They now take 10mA/hr at the most and are good to go. I have managed to kill several by forgetting to disconnect them from Failover switches until it was too late. Once these are discharged to zero the only place is the bin.
  24. Certainly faked copies. I had the same problem with so called Tower Pro ones. If stopped by hand they would not restart without a Tx input; no wonder that the autogyro they were in behaved strangely. Bin them.
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