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ntsmith

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Everything posted by ntsmith

  1. One thing is for sure. with a 0.61two stroke up front this is not going to be a slouch. I liked the method of mounting the engine. I had never used this before but its cheap and light and allows the engine to be placed further rearwards keeping the CG further back.
  2. I have now completed the bottom wing sheeting. I decided that I would go for a complete sheeting since the small amount left of the wing with capping strips simply would not made much difference to the weight. It may have looked better perhaps since you would have been able to see that the wing was actualy built up. Meanwhile, the fuz is beginning to take shape (it can be seen in the background of the last picture) Hopefully the firewall has most of the holes made and ready for the fixtures. It will need the holes for the feil lines but I am not sure if it will be using a single or two line feed method. With the SLEC tank I can choose but I have also decided that the 14oz tank is too big, although it fits OK even allowing for the nosewheel streering tiller to be installed inside the fuz. The nosewheel assembly is sprung as well so it takes a little more room up. The brakes will be fitted to the main wheels. Not sure what times I should expect with the 11oz tank but 10 to 12 mins is a rough guess (No I didnt do the math, its based on experience!)
  3. This thread is a definit incentive to go out and buy one if these kits. Keep up the good work.
  4. The next size SLEC tank down is 11oz but what length of engine run could I expect. 10mins with safety margin? If so then I will change to the 11oz one.
  5. Is it possible to show what you are actualy trying to acheive as an end result. Have you got individual rib templates? If not you will have to cut them with the "block method"Personaly, I never bother with jigs unless the wing is A/ REALLY complex or B/Needs to be absolutely bang on which isnt the usual case as a couple of mm here and there will never show.Having , NOW, just looked at the last picture of yours. I would not bother with the jig. If your holes in those ribs are just a little out of alignment then you will have a more bent wing than I ever did building without a jig. The rib shown also looks symetrical whereas you mentioned a semi one. By the time you have set all that jig up alot of modelers would have built the wing!
  6. I have a 14oz tank which I bought specificaly for this but I am not sure if its about the right size for the engine and the airframe. Well, we know aout the airframe but the SC61 is an unknown beast to me so I wonder if anyone can suggest if this is about right. I would mention that it fits comfortably but it does seem to me to be on the large size and I would dearly like to know what was fitted to the original Kwik-Fly. The tank can be large for moer than one reason. A/ Physicaly too large so doesnt fitB/ Too large causing a change in needle valve setting because of the fuel head C/ Too large causing too much of a centre of gravity change and the only problem with too small a one is the flight time is too short !
  7. Detail of F1 (Firewall) area which has to have the engine mount and nosewheel mounting all fitted to it. I did manage to obtain a sprung 8G assembly from Slough Radio Control but the length of the nosewheel is far too long so this will have to be replaced with a shorter one.
  8. In view of the original being nose heavy, necessitating the battery to be stowed aft of the wing I thought that an extra longeron aft of the wing might be a usefull piece of structural addition.
  9. Meanwhile I have started on the fuselage which has not gone along very fast primarily because there are alot of points that need good alignment as well as there being doublers and treblers for added strength. F1 also had to be moved rearwards about 1/4" to allow for the slightly longer engine being used even though it will be mounted the Phil Kraft way by means of the backplate which is the cheapest and best method to keep the engine as far back as possible without increasing the nose moment.
  10. This is the plan detail as well as a picture of the centre section as I constructed it. slight changes were made to the uc mount. All joints to the mount were with 24hr araldite for strength.
  11. I am still sticking to the plans. There is no chance of a steel bolt and I doubt even a nylon one breaking. Shear loads, like when you have a cartwheel for a landing, may cause one to break but under tension. No, I dont see that happening in a milions years. The most likely point of failure is going to be inside the fuselage which would fail just as likely with two as with one.
  12. How many of Phil Krafts models crashed because of a wing bolt failure?None. Q.E.D.
  13. One steel one it will be. Must admit that two can help get the wings more level
  14. Although it is a mid-wing design the wing simply mounts on the bottom of the fuz and part of the fuz is attached to the botom of the wing. The downside to this arangement is that the top of the fuz above the rear part of the wing is quite a weak point but this was aided on the plan from the original by adding some sheeting between the rear fuselage stringers at that point. It is secured by two dowls in the front and a single bolt in the rear. Great for simplicity except there will be four servos plus another servo for the wheel brakes under the wing in what is the continuation of the fuz so there will be five leads to be connected when the wing is put in place.
  15. I have now finished the sheeting of the flaps and ailerons which have the hinge and horn reinforcements fitted. Now leaving the wing aside a little in order to start on the fuz. All that will need to be done is to cut between the spars and cut the surface in half. Nice and simple. The fuz sides are 48" length 4" wide 3/16" sheet although even then a small addition had to be made near to the wing area to make them wider. 0.8mm doublers are added then 1/16" ply treblers around the wing. I found it suprising that there is only one wing bolt required. I am not adding anything since that would equate to m weight so leaving it at just the one bolt which will pass through the lower wing fairing - its a mid-wing design remember!  
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