Len Ward

as they say ,there'e are many ways to skina a feline.As I said i use a Hitec servo withan servo arm adjustable for length.I install a plastic keeper through both the servo arm and the throttle arm, locking the cable with a screw [at both ends].I juggle [maybe jiggle]the movement so that I get full throttle and reliable tick over with the stick [ the Tx trim at max,]using this to fine tune the slow running only.

Everyone thats built a few models has their own favourite way of setting up the throttle.Mine is to ignore the computer and set it up mechanically but husing a Hi Tec servo,ie the one with the adjustable arm. in fact I set up all my models "mechanically" and adjust each one so it will trim out pretty much with little in flight trim input.the computer is only used to fine tune things,but it still means I can get the old Futaba Challenger out and fly any conventional model {ie not delta or flying wing} careful only to check rates and servo reversal. In this day of almost {?} universal ARTF's,control linkages and throttle set up are about the most challenging assembly job. How about an article on the alternative ways of setting up The throttle.Yea I do mean ic....

Afew years ago I finshed throwing a model around and did a curving approach to the strip.Overshooting was called and I watched the model fly by.Funny I thought the fin seems to be on the bottom...oh yeah,you've guessed it,I put on power and pulled up only to see the plane plough into the ground.... Len

Forgive me if I go back to basics,but ,using aelerons as flaps can reduce the effectiveness of the aeleron.Can I with due humility suggest that you try controlling the speed with the stick and the rate of decent with the throttle.Obviously the 2 interact but if the plane is set up at the right hight on approach the wonders can be achieved on short landings by using the throttleto vary rate of decent? Len

Sorry,I'm unrepentant.Find a club and also whether they they welcome new members and have club trainers.It's possible to learn yourself but please be aware of the need to be insured,and the best way to do this is via membership of a club that is affiliated to the BMFA. The best model to learn on is another issue,either a 3 channel old timer like the Junior 60,or a 4 channel trainer,and here,I can speak highly of the Flair Pup,,if it's still in production.Many trainers are far too fast for the tyro and definetly need a buddy box linked to an experienced pilot. Len

There really is only one way to learn to fly and that's to join a club. Yes some clubs are cliques,but a lot[most]arent.I belong to 2 clubs in Cheshire and Hampshire,and,it's strange but whilst the names are different ,the personalities are the same!,ie passionate about the hobby and politically somewhere to the right of Gengis Kahn! I exaggerate,but as a stranger eager to learn I was always welcome and helped into the hobby.In those days ,however,it was buy the bits and build a kit.It's possible that the artf entry does not carry the commitment from the applicant to "try and to get on with the guys?" and learn the basics.After all when you learn to fly full size you first have to learn about what makes a plane[apologies to my instructor,an aeroplane]fly and related topics.It is a difficult thing to learn and I suspect one of the problems is the lack of instant gratification and the realisation that you cant become an expert in 10 mins? Having said that we dont really do much to publicise ourselves nor is the BMFA at the forefront of pushing our hobby/sport.I can only speak personally as the chairman of one club for a few years that we are very keen to nip awkward so and so's in the bud and welcome people to our site subject to them obeying the rules of safety. We could of course compile a blacklist of clubs?????

like em or not I guess ARTF's are here to stay,,but comments from reviewers suggest from time to time mods to models that they consider necessary. How about an article re what to look for and what might need changing,and,how? I have in mind such things as control linkages,fuel proofing of the front end if i.c.,check wing securing system,care on removing covering before gluing tail surfaces,the all important CofG,aliggnmenmt of the u/c if a tail dragger,glue joints that can be seen. On a related topic it's possible that newcomers[and some old ones as well] could be interested in how best [?] to set up the servos to the control surfaces and throttle. I;ve got my own pet way but I bet there are some better one's out there? How about it Mr Miller? Len

From the comments of members in our club,and from my own experience,I know Steve Webb sells good makes of artf. Has anyone else experience of good retailers/makes ?

It's always a worry flying an artf,at least if you crash youre own through structural failure it's your own mistake. Perhaps if the artf market was to offer a more prefabricated kit which allowed the inspection of joints/wood quality leaving the covering to the buyer? I know many fliers[potential flyers] lack the interest/ability/time to build from scratch and this may offer a compromise,and,as one writer says open a market for even cheaper kits where you can see what your getting??? Anyone know how to take this up?

Most[?] of the kits sold today are ARTF,and yet there is little iformation on how they are built.Occaisionally there's a comment about the covering ,eg self adhesive,or uses profilm etce.Sometimes [?] there is mention about "traditionally built with balsa...",mind you how this can be determined I dont know.Rarely is there coment on the adhesive used. How do we know that the engine is going to stay fastened to the firewall/to the model? Have we any idea what has been used to glue the ribs to the spars? Some years ago an old mate of mine flew a Corsair at a show{Cosford} only to see his home built radial engine detach from the fuselage and wend it's way separately to the ground.Part of the model had been built by another..but that's no excuse is it? How about some destructive examination of the artf airframe ,and conclusions as to the materials and adhesives used?

Why have Futaba gone into 2,4 at such a low level? The intro of the Spectrum seemed to coincide with a flurry of advertising from the other manufacturers promoting 35 Mhz units,concentrating at the top end of the market.Have we any response from the Pro's out there on this?

Cant remember how many models I'vew built over the last18 years..my wife made the mistake of buying be a DB Tiger moth for my 50th ,but I've always gor hung up over glues,ie use PVA for building,or Cyano,except for fire walls or wing joining when 30 min epoxy was the answer. I'm an impatient bloke and decided to use cyano for everything exc ept wing bandages[PVA will do].So I did only making sure that the varnish was sanded off ply before sticking and that there was a reasonable amount of doubling/triangular section reinforcement to that area.The largest model built is an 8foot span Telemaster [remember them?] Stil going strong after 10m years and used for glider towing with an ASP 108 up front..others include own design 60's 70's 90's spoprt/aero models with no failures.Why the complication of all the various glues? I can understand that large stuff needs special attention but up to 60 size or thereabouts Cyano seems to be ok,or have I just been lucky.Mind you, the loft,the garage ,and the shed currently hol about 20 own builds. On the same topic I'd really like to know what glue some ARTF's use??

Just finished reading B Winch's report on the Saito 40.Twas like a bikini,what it revealed was interesting but what it concealed was vital! ie whats the competition.Was it the best in the world or was it just false emotion he engendered? He made no reference to the other 40 4 strokes on the market. By my count there are at least 2 contenders:the Enya 41,and the OS40. All good makes and with a reputation in the box,but for starters the Enya is about £180,the OS approx £150,and the Saito a mere £126. Having said that there are other factors which may guide a purchase such as dimensions [will it fit the cowl],weight,and ,last but not least,how do they compare in turning props of various sizes? How about some comparisons? For the record I have an Enya 41 bought from Steve Webb 7 years ago.Its been run,and run,and run,and it's still going strong. Whats the experience of other modellers re engines?????? Len

try putting a sleeve of neoprene fuel tube between the needle and the housing so that when you screw the needle in it forms a seal.It's worked for me with a couple of old OS's

dear David [as in Ashby] Is it possible/practicable to post a regular diary of events?