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charles aldous

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  1. Just picked up a Revolver 46 and searching for a new cowl, anything out there please? Edited By charles aldous on 28/02/2019 22:54:31
  2. **LINK** For a top safety system on electric prop models I use the above emcotec products.
  3. I made new gaskets for the cam drive gear housing and rocker covers as well and a quick test run on Friday showed no oil leaks. Thanks to all.
  4. Found online the guage of gasket to be 0.2mm and Just Engines are sending me a 300 x 400mm sheet for £5 posted. Let's hope this will cure the oil slick. Thanks once again for all the input.
  5. Hi Guys and thanks for all the comments thus far: I will update as follows: 1. I had the cowl off on Thursday and re-tuned the two mixture valves. It now peaks around 9300 rpm and I can a great transition and a spretty smooth idle at around 2200 +/-. 2. Whilst running with the cowl off I found the cause of the oil slick, see attached pics. It's not coming from the carb as I could clearly see no spit at all. It is coming from cam gear housing, so I will replace the gasket and hope that fixes it. However the gasket set is out of stock at Macgregor so any ideas? 3. Just for info, the breather has always been open to atmosphere, I have just moved where the tube is fixed in efforts to reduce the oil hitting the fus. 4. Whilst zero oil getting past the front bearing I intend to replace the bearings anyway whilst the engine is apart
  6. Thanks Gordon, no oil on prop and as far as I could tell the original bearings.
  7. Thanks Mac, the air filters look interesting, but no room in this particular model's cowl. The prop on question is actually 12 x 7. I'll tune the engine per John Harper's method and report back peak and idle rpm's achieved. Thanks all for interest.
  8. Posted by Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 31/10/2017 16:23:25: Posted by charles aldous on 31/10/2017 15:22:07:     Lean it off slowly to max rpm, then either leave it alone or, if you must, 2 clicks richer. If the engine is rich enough for you to notice an rpm drop vs peak revs then its too rich and you have gone too far. Thanks John,       Edited By charles aldous on 31/10/2017 16:58:09
  9. Thanks Mac, I might even have the prop size wrong from memory, so I'll post again when I have checked the rpm and prop size. Where is the calculation you use available please? Suppose I had the timing out by one tooth either way, with that prop and fuel, would even 8500 rpm, smooth idle, great transition etc be achieveable?
  10. Dennis, yes, the engine is run in thanks. Had at least 100 flights since I bought it second hand, engine pulls Toledo Special around very well. John, I'll double check my numbers at the weekend. It might have reached 9000 or so before richening back a few hundred from peak, but i can't be sure. I'm running Optifuel 12% slv. The cam setting method I used is below, although I used a 2mm hex driver instead of the described tool, same effect though.   http://users.tpg.com.au/gmustang/saitotiming/timing.html   Edited By charles aldous on 31/10/2017 15:34:31
  11. Posted by Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 31/10/2017 14:01:23: Has the engine ever been apart? seems strange its spitting so much. perhaps the cams arent right Hi John, I have had the engine apart to check the timing and valve clearances whilst trying to eliminate reasons for the fuel spitting. I put it back as per the info onine for timimg mark alignment etc. At one tooth off the alignment is way off so I am pretty sure I have it correct as the engine gives around 8500 rpm with a 12x 6 prop and bags of power. Any views on an air filter, or better still any other thoughts on possible causes?
  12. Update on Saito 56 Oil residue. I tried moving the breather tube from under the cowl, attaching it to the muffler pressure tube, but made no difference to the amount of fuel/oil residue deposits on the model, so now reluctantly accepting that the breather residue is what it is. To address the slick in the cowl, I fitted a velocity stack but this hasn't helped at all. In fact, when holding the model vertical at full throttle during mixture checking, I can see this stuff running down the inside of the cowl, although slightly less noticible at idle. Older posts on forums elsewhere suggest fitting an air filter to the velocity stack to contain the fuel spit, but I can't find a readily available one. Any views or comments most welcome on a suitable filter arrangement, or other possible causes of what seems to me to be excessive amounts of unburnt fuel/air slick in my cowl. Edited By charles aldous on 31/10/2017 12:06:57
  13. I added the velocity stack to my Saito 56 and attached the crank breather to the muffler pressure tube. I think I have a little less slick in the cowl, but still present, and underside of model stills gets covered.
  14. **LINK** Just ordered the above, hope it helps.
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