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maurice northcott

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Everything posted by maurice northcott

  1. A lot of time spent researching again today – this time it was the different bulges on the engine cowling of the D-11 -v- the D-9. I knew roughly where they were and the shape, but last time I researched them was many years ago. Anyway, the first job in the workshop was to sand and fix the fin sheets to the fin structure. All the tape was removed from the skins and then they were sanded on what will become the outer face. This is to prepare the outer surfaces for finishing before they are fitted. If the sheets were sanded after they were fixed then the area over the structure would remain fixed when sanding, but the parts over open areas would sag between the structure and an uneven surface would result – first photo. This was followed by a quick sand over what are the insides just sufficient to remove any “nibs” of balsa cement. The sheets were positioned over the structure just to check they would fit and then glue was applied to the structure and each skin was pinned and taped into position. PVA glue was used in this operation – balsa cement could be used, but it does not give as much time for “shuffling” the sheet into correct position. Eventually the PVA glue cured and the pins and tape removed. At this point a number of dents were noticed in the sheeting – 2nd photo ( have circled the dents with a dotted red line). These had been incurred during the sanding operation – quickest way to get rid of these is to apply some “spit” to the relevant area – 3rd photo. 2 hours later, the dents had disappeared and the model has some more of my “soul” in it. Blood is already in it, so we are in usual territory. Now we have a fin sheeted on both sides. Before any further work, it was put aside to let the glue dry completely. Back to the bulges. These were measured and red marks made on the engine cowling of the fuselage – last photo. These bulges are on the full-size, but It is very difficult to see them on photos, consequently it is difficult to size and position them. Moving on, the basic shapes have been marked out on ¼” soft sheet balsa for later cutting out. That’s it for today, cheers, maurice
  2. First thing today it looked great for a day at the flying field, but checked the weather forecast – that said it would soon cloud over, the wind increase (above my comfort level) and the temperature drop. They were spot on! So this morning was spent sorting out blocks in the vertical stab to take the rudder hinges, then a leading edge for the fin. It looks quite simple at first, but there is a critical angle cut into the front of the bottom of it – trying to get that right nearly had me trying to pull out what remains of my hair. Anyway, eventually got there with patience, the old bandsaw and a Permagrit sanding block – first photo. After lunch decided to make up the fin side sheeting. Each side would have to be 2 bits, so these were marked out on the sheet with plenty of excess around the outline. The edges that were to be glued together were trued up with the Permagrit block, then the sheets were taped together, hold them in place with a couple of small pieces of tape, followed by one full-length long strip – 2nd photo. These were turned up the other way so the tape is now on the underside and then laid so the smaller sheet overlapped the edge of the board and dangled down – 3rd photo. A bead of balsa cement was run along the joint using the nozzle to push it along (4th photo) and the dangling sheet brought back up to the top of the board. The cement is pushed out a little and this is spread along the joint line by use of a finger. Apply a slight bit of upward pressure on the joint and apply a couple more pieces of tape to hold that tension – 5th photo. Now the second side sheet is made up in the same way but “handed”, this to ensure the side with the cement spread along it will be on the inside of the fin. Always use balsa cement for this operation – first it shrinks slightly in going off, making the joint tighter and second (should there be any outside the joint) it will be easy to sand off. The 2 complete sheet sides (last photo) are now put away to dry out over a number of hours, probably until tomorrow to ensure complete drying. Cheers, maurice Edited By maurice northcott on 26/02/2017 15:50:43
  3. Carry on with it please John - you are doing great. I don't think many comments/questions get put on my construction blog, but hey that must mean that I am very good at describing what I am doing, and/or the photos cover everything adequately. On the other hand, of course, I could be totally boring and the photos rubbish. Please don't tell me, just let me live in my own little pile of balsa dust and shavings..... Edited By maurice northcott on 26/02/2017 12:26:06 Edited By maurice northcott on 26/02/2017 12:26:47
  4. Lovely model Andy - Very well done. Canberra is one of my favourites being one of those aircraft flying in numbers when I was a sprog....you have done it proud.
  5. Crikey, Henry J's was one my LMS going back to the early 1950's. When Henry J, ("The Professor" his son and grandson gave up, the shop was taken over by somebody else. I presume the "new" chap is now or has retired......
  6. Thank you Colin and "Martian". Yes I had thought about a mask when decided to buy the "mouse". I already have one that suits spraying 2-pack paints so I guess that should be ok for balsa dust and the dust that comes off the epoxy glass.... I have lived this long and want to do a number more models..... Edited By maurice northcott on 25/02/2017 20:15:13
  7. Another day of work without much to show for it.... but hey, after the main construction, that is how scale modelling goes, and I love it . First of all, I wanted to permanently fit the 3/8" raising piece below the translation from the parallel section and the fin leading edge. To do this required quite a bit of checking the photos and drawings then checking and rechecking the fit of the 3 sections that are all related. Also added a little piece of balsa to the rear of the fuselage former just in front of the horizontal stabiliser leading edge. This provides a location of the front downstand of the piece that will be fitted after the horizontal stabiliser and before the vertical stab. Eventually just after lunch I was able to cut a lightening hole and glue it in place (first photo below). As you can probably see I used pva for this - Vitalbond Westbury Express PVA - I have used this adhesive for many years now, and find it superb. Quick grab time and when set, it is crisp and sandable without any of the "rubberyness" (is that a word?) associated with some other pva. I like to use headed pins for this sort of operation because they are easy-to-see and therefore easy to check they are all removed when the time is ready. How many times do you think you have removed all the pins, then when caressing the model, you find that one that was still in it and you have either stuck it in your hand, or worse, damaged the surface of the model. Whilst this was starting to dry I decided to try out a new (to me) tool that I thought could help with the cutting-back of the epoxy-glass covering. This is a Black & Decker "Mouse" (second photo). So I grabbed the wing and attacked it with the new tool. Crikey, it works wonders, it takes of the surface superbly. That will get some use over the next few days, not only on this model but also others... Thanks for looking, maurice
  8. Nice work Colin - one I have always fancied "when the rest of the list is finished"   Edited By maurice northcott on 25/02/2017 08:40:07
  9. Not a great deal done today – well, what with "thinking time" and "doing time", it took most of the day but I changed a few bits of the fin. Some of this work was adding wood to improve the fit of parts and the other work was a change to the construction of the fin. Where the front of the fin joins the fuselage of the 190 there are some interesting shapes….. not really difficult in themselves but (to me) a really distinctive area of the aircraft, so it has to be as right (as far as possible) to satisfy me. Another change made at the same time was because I considered the construction of the front lower part of the fin leading edge did not lend itself to achieving those distinctive shapes easily. I cut out the front of the lowest rib and the leading edge from the lowest rib up to the next rib. This area will eventually be replaced by a block “tack-glued” in place (for the time being a ¼-inch sheet central core has been glued in). When the shape of the block is finally developed, the block will be removed, hollowed and then glued in for final shaping and finishing. The part of the lower front part of the fin cut out is sitting on the box in the foreground of the photo. That concludes most of the actual “building” of the model except for the block referred to above, sheeting of the fin, and the supercharger intake on the right hand side of the aircraft. This being a 190D-11, that intake is far larger than the usual supercharger intake in that position on a 190D-9. Have a good evening all.... maurice
  10. Thanks John, There are plenty on here who would help when you get to the finishing stage. I have built 3 of Brian's, 2 of Dave's 80" and one Meister. Have also got the majority of the construction completed on one of Dave's 65" ones that I have modded to a Ta152H. I am currently working on a "D" that I modded Dave's 80" drawings to produce. To me the 190 in all its evolutions was a fantastic aircraft and the colour schemes are so varied..... Dust off the Swann Morton and get stuck in maurice
  11. Do it John, 190's are all beautiful. As somebody once said to me many moons ago... "If you make a mistake, its only wood, so it can always be changed". Who's plan and "gubbins" do you have? maurice
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