Reed

Being a new modeller and builder and having purchased a flair scout kit several months ago AND then a BD sport and scale kit. I would say that if the flair kits were laser cut they would sell better. My kit was quite poor quality wise regarding the stamped parts. The other components were excellent. I think the ribs were cut using 2 stamps and these were not the same in shape so you end up with 2 sets of different ribs,which by the way are boomerang wanna be`s !

Need to strip some paint indoors on gloss. Door frame and multi pane glass door. I used nitromors years ago and it worked but nasty stuff. I recall seeing some stuff that sets and you peel off. also many of large shops carry makes I have never heard of. Can anyone provide any recs from previous use please.

Posted by Peter Miller on 14/08/2015 18:26:49: Tools are always ALWAYS worth spending money on. Yeah I know,i am always taking my brother in-law out

Sorry for the probable wrong terms above but I have no knowledge of cad/cam/cnc/laser work. I just wondered if anyone can supply a possible service.I need to replace a set of ribs which I would like to have laser cut rather than attempt to cut myself. I get my materials from a architectural supply shop which does laser cutting but no file work,the students bring the files and it is cut. I was told I need to get my rib shape on to a file ,DFX??? then nestle the ribs onto a sheet the same size as the cutter takes . I do not want this done for free I am willing to pay for the time of course. The guy there called a student over and he said he would do the file work which he did for practice. I paid for the cutting and balsa only to find the size and shape were not really the same.So I would much rather get the work done proper.dont know where to look for the service out side of here thanks

Bit of a long shot but did anyone attend the WaP show this year and still got a traders map? It as been taken down from the official site only traders list left.I did not keep my programme and need to find a traders name I visited while there I have done o search on line but all direct to the main site. I know where the stall was placed but not the name and the business card was in programme!

I have just started to follow this build because I have just started my first build which is a DB Tiger moth E. They seem pretty similar. I have posted recently due to probs building the curved TE at wing root and tips. I think I have got the straight TE area worked out ok BUT I would really like to see a picture if possible of your work on trailing egde. Did you bevel top strip or bottom,did you follow plan or adjust etc.A end on shot of TE would be great if you are at that stage again. I have a few pics on my post,its on scale and semi scale,title, rounded TE

I am not much cop on PC`s etc and after moving from XP pro windows 7 promised never to upgrade again. Still cant get used to 7, the most annoying thing for me is not being able to have multiple windows opened like xp did. probably a trick to do it but I never found it,plus lots of other things to many to mention. used a friends lap top the other day for 10 mins with windows8,no thanks. For me and home use XP was king

See the trailers for sky`s new King of speed show with Idris elba who says he is a speed freak. After seeing bits of two episodes I would say Idris knows little about cars and speed and for sure he can not drive . how did he get to front this show ,much more qualified presenters around. Does any one agree?

Thanks Jez, the first picture helps a lot. I was thinking the thin edge ran around the curve.now I can see the idea of the infill. luckily my lit is not to detailed and flat bottomed that second picture with rising wing would be beyond my abilities for now at least. I think I will have to do new lower TE strips because I ran the bevel all the way not knowing better.if I put the infill on the bevel it will leave a gap,another lesson learned

Regards the plan being creased I did not iron like jrman suggested. I was not sure if it was laser or copy printed and I read that heat removes the image from whiche ever it is. I thought a light mist of water on the folds would do trick but that made it worse,creases and now wavey. its only the wings I needed and the grid paper worked ok,if the plan was more complex I would be in trouble. Hope next kit will have rolled plan.

Thanks Jez, you haven't got any step by step photos of trailing edge tip construction have you : )

Found out how to place photos after text and in order.I can still not work out how to add text after last photo.can not get curser below last photo.Will check on any more tips tonight,thanks for time and patience

I am ok with the correct curve at each end and the narrowing of the TE where it meets the centre section. its the way I bring the two TE strips together at the curve. when I lay the upper strip on the ribs on the straight section it meets the lower great,THEN when it gets to the curve the strips separate and the bevel no longer meets the upper,at first I thought I needed to push the upper strip down to meet lower TE strip but soon realised that will not work. To be honest I am still no wiser to how it should be done.i will take these tips and look at the wing on the board to see if any sink in. I have almost finish one centre section not fully shaped yet but I am pleased with it.I am going to post two photos to see if I have found correct way to post

Yes sorry about lag in posting,i am struggling trying to post the photos in the right place. They don't seem to attach after the last text,the first one does then the others go to start.Also I can not add txt after last photo. I am going to try and find out now.

I realise about the shape on the plan Simon,its more about the actual way to attach upper and lower trailing edge at the curve. Richard, I see your point. so where the dotted line starts after the rib is infill,does that mean I should not of bevelled that area? And on the curve that area will not be as thin as the trailing edge tip, it will get thicker,say 1/8th at start and end of bend it might be say 1/2 inch