grizz

I am not a beginner!! I DO know how to properly bind my tx and rx.I have used Spectrum ever since it came into use in this country.The impossible seems to have happened and my plane DID unbind.NO the bind plug was not left in the rx. NO I did not operate the bind button on the rear of my tx.My plane was properly bound to the tx as I had already had two successful flights with it  and had "topped-up" the flight battery before this unexpected happening. As to bringing up this on artf  plane problems,I only intended to illustrate what a good and strong plane the Panic is.I have started a forum post on my Spektrum problem as a separate issue.

I have suffered an uexpected unbinding of my plane from Spectrum 7,despite the servo/rx battery being fully charged.Anyone else suffered an unbinding on start up and before flying.The servos are standard Spectrum digitals with the standard 7 channel Spectrum rx.I had full control on start-up ,then the unbinding occurred.The battery is a brand new JR 2100 mah 4.6v ni mh. fully charged.

I had a serious problem with my Weston Cougar.The first  time I flew it  the model ground looped nearly "crowning" my helper by just missing his head with the engine at takeoff revs.The only damage was a broken prop.Upon investigation I found that the servo tray had come adrift.When I applied up elevator the tray had detached due to the pull on the tray by the closed loop rudder set up.I found that  virtually NO GLUE was holding the tray into the fuselage-an obvious build fault by the far east builders.When I contacted Weston to report this build error,I was told that Weston were quite satisfied with the Cougar etc.etc etc. It would seem that no inspection of finished kits is carried out-integrity of critical parts of the plane is essential and in this instance both myself and my helper were lucky  to get away unscathed from what could have been a very serious incident.

My panic managed to "unbind" itself from my Spektrum 7 transmitter after I had started the engine.It went into failsafe mode with the engine at tickover.Our club sec,being a helpful sort of guy picked it up,carried it to the end of our runway and,thinking I had the model under control let it go.As all the controls were at neutral the model then took off as a freeflight model.I had shouted NO at the top of my voice but distance and engine noise,even on tickover meant that he couldnt hear our pleas not to let go!!!.The aircraft climbed to about 50 feet,did a wingover and then a vertical dive into the runway grass.It buried itself up to the engine backplate,the wings shot off(the rubber wing bands broke).The ONLY damage was caused by the upper wlng cabane which went thro' the wing,cracking the l.e. sheeting.A minor repair soon had me flying again.The reason for the unbinding remains a mystery-this has not recurred.Horizon Hobby can't supply a reason either.I have read somewhere that if the tx is too close to the model when the model is switched on can cause unbinding as the signal from the tx swamps the tx but doesn't seem logical to me.Anybody else had a similar experiance?.   The only other problem has been the loss of one of the outer wing struts/plates after some pretty extreme manoevures .This fluttered down and dissappeared into the "moss"(rough reedy ground)at the back of our flying field. New plates were obtained from the good folk at Avicraft and are now fitted with tethers to prevent further loss in the event of further detachment from my plane.

I wouldn't bother with a conopy - looks great without.Just go and fly  

Looking realy good Matthew.Must find some time to start a serious build of mine

Great looking colour scheme matthew.How are you going to finish the fuselage?

Thanks Andy,I'll look them up

Hey Matthew,I'm probably going down the same construction road as you.I got some super quality high density EPP from Rob Swynnerton at Flying wings.He cut it to 35mm thick x deep enough and long enough to cut and shape fuselage sides(2 off) so that I can do all the interior work then stick them together and finish with glass and epoxy - then epoxy paint.Will get the wings from our friend Barry Johnson @ Foamwings.co.uk. I nearly had a heart attack when I priced out the carboncloth etc. I've already got loads of glass cloth and epoxy in my store from glassing a 1/4 scale Sukhoi so hope to save the pennies a bit.I've got the fues cut out in bue foam at the moment but still feel the EPP option will suit better.SO I'm interestesin your photo progress report.Carry on with the good work.

Hey Mr moderator,I'm not getting notification of replies to this thread !.Can you keep me posted please.

Whats that battery you used Steve-seem  big dia cells or is this just a camera distortion.I've just outlined and cut the blue foam fuse blank -looks great even before rounding up the section.Anyone thought of building one with a square x section ?

Read the hand book on binding proceedure. you have to insert the bind plug initially-no the set is not supplied already bound .You have to remove the bind plug after a successful bind otherwise the wretched thing  wants to rebind everytime you switch on.WHEN you remove the bind plug DONT lose it.Its dead simple realy-but good luck anyhow.

Bind the bits together before building.If its Spektrum then remove bind plug.Should be able to set things up then after all is hidden inside.If you've got Futaba I can't advise as I'm a Spektrum/JR user

Make sure its DISPLAY mount and not SPRAY mount matthew.

There you are then-part way into the build already !

Happy sloping.Our club is intending to have a combat raid on an adjacent club tomorrow,but as usual,the winds in the wrong direction and lots of precipitation is forcast.Oilies and wellies day methinks if we can find a suitable S facing slope.Wind strength o.k.-force 5 to 6.

This info is available from the 3M web site if you go into the tech data part of their web site Display mount is aimed at people who set up conferences and symposiums etc. It is the same "strength" as 3M77 and has the same "glueing" power.It is the same adhesive!.This info was passed on to me some time ago by my brother in law who used to be a scientist employed by N.A.S.A.I have been using Display Mount for a number of years.NOTE OF CAUTION ---DONT confuse this with SPRAY MOUNT which is a different beast entirely.

Andy E please note about display mount

Matthew,3M77 spray adhesive is identical in strength and chemical make-up as 3M Display Mount.This is 3M77 in an alternativr can.I can buy this from my local drawing office supply shop(disp'mount) I think I also paid less for it as well.Next day del as well if they haven't got it an no carriage cost

Don't I get some blame for starting the original JART enquiry thread ? Instead of tape,have you thought of using the vynyl that sign writers use ? My man ,who makes my model logos tells me it will stretch over and round curves with a little low heat - Im going to try it on a"Combat Wings "slope wing -I'll let you know how I get on with it.

New thread-good idea.--Keep us up to date on progress Mathew.Good luck with the new model.

Keep us regularly updated on your progress please-more photographs as you go on -if only to wet my appetite

Thanks for the photos matthew.I'm green with envy--it'll be a little while yet before my JART is born.

What about some pictures Matthew.I'm a bit undecided about taking the plunge - kit JART or do-it-myself JART??????? or the epp JART.By the time I've paid for the wings/tail feathers there's not much to choose cost wise.Was postage expensive?

Our club - Glenluce and Galloway Flyers has issued a challenge to another local club - Burns country Flyers - here in bonnie Scotland,Anyone else like to join in ?