Geoff Daunt

Hi All , many thanks for the replies. Just joined the Scalesoaring association and asked the question. Will post any interesting reply.

Hi Glider Guiders, l have been given an elderly Minimoa type Glider, which was past from club member to member over many yrs for a refurb but no one got around to it. l now have it. I guess it was built 20+ yrs ago. the wings had bellcrank operated ailerons and Tissue covered with the wing covered in nylon and dope in poor condition. l have removed everything and replaced with modern servos and covered in a vintage type oracover. The wingspan is 3M with a cord of 245 mm. There is a big chunk of lead in the front of Fuselage but l have no information on Cof G. 25% of Cord is 61.25mm and 1/3 is 81.66 Putting on my Balencer at 70mm it is still very tail heavy with Battery and Servo in place So something is wrong , if it has ever flown !!!! For a maiden flight would you go for the 25% figure or something less?? Any general advice appreciated.

Many thanks for the replies on camping. I have looked online and l think Dinarth comes up fine and seems closer for a drive in the M to the Orme. Hope to make one or 2 of the events and try out my models. Look forward to meeting some fellow Modelers.

Hi, l am a new member of the PSSA association and interested in attending some of this years events. Could anyone who attends by Motorhome kindly advise a good local campsite for a weekend . Many thanks . Geoff

Hi All, many thanks for the replies. David you are a star. It is indeed the labeling which is the problem. On the top of the Rx next to the Pins are the legends Throttle down to Aux1. You therefore assume that plugging into throttle would be for throttle. !!!! To the right of these legends are a further set Bind down to Batt and these would indicate they are for the lower set of pins !! NO. In fact everything is in reverse to what would seem normal. No wonder others have had a problem. Pleased to say everything is Twinkling at me, so l will just go and get my Tx and press the Bind button. Many thanks again Geoff.

I have 2 newAR10000 receiver's. I cannot get the binding lights to flash. I have set up as per instructions. I have put the short remote into AntR & the longer one into Ant B. I do not know what Ant L is for. I have attached the ESC lead into throttle and then connected the ESC to a 3s Lipo fully charged. The bind plug is in the correct pin on the Rx. Nothing happens. I am sure polarity is correct for pins. I have also tried without ESC and just using bind plug and a separate NIMH battery, again nothing happens I then tried my second AR10000, same again no lights. I then took out a new AR610 , connected up and bingo the lights are on. So if l can programme this why not the 10000. I cannot believe l have 2 duds so what am l doing wrong. It is driving me crazy. !!!!!!

Hi Bob, Thanks for he information. Sorry for the late response. The article was very good. Following further research l have found a site "RC Model Geeks " who do a complete build of this Gyrocopter on U-Tube and also take it out and fly it. So this has answered all my issues.....and it flies. Take a look it is worth the visit. many thanks, Geoff.

Hello, Just back from the BMFA Nationals and for sometime have fancied something different and there it was on one of the trade stands. A HobyKing ARTF Super G Autogyro. Contents look pretty good but will not be assembling untill l return to Spain later this month.Instructons say nothing about balancing of blades but having flown the odd Heli l am aware of this fact and happy how to do this. Also nothing about flying instructions and although a reasonable flier of power,gliders and the odd basic heli, no exp. of Gyros Just wondering if anyone else has this model and if so any tips/advice on any assembly issues and flying. I cannot find any reviews for this model Any advice or other areas to look appreciated. Geoff

Thanks Martin, Ok so when l next charge, again at 200Mah, when do l pull the plug , if still goes upto say 3000 and Delta peak has not kicked in to term. the charge.? As l said erarlier when l terminated the last one the battery was only mldly warm and not at all hot, but when would it have stopped if at all.!!!! If l understand the earlier information then the extra input does not go into the battery but is converted into heat.!!,after it has reached peak capacity. Am l correct in this understanding. Regards, Geoff.

Hi All, Many thanks for the replies........which has helped me understand a bit more. Normally l would charge at about 1/2 rate, but l read on one of the blogs from our Administrator that it is prudent to charge "new" batteries at 1/10 rate for the first 2/3 charges to get all the cells working at thier best.. Next charge l will keep ane eye on input and terminate at 2000 Geoff.

Hi, Just decided to change the Rx Battery in my 1/4 scale piper cub. The old battery was not holding its charge. The new one is an Eneloop,4.8, 2000MaH (although the battery was bought about 9 mnths ago) Not knowing what was left in the battery l put on Discharge @ 0.5A to 4.00 V. It took out about 1300A. So...onto charge at 0.2A overnight. In the morning it was at 1950.....and still had not terminated it's charge so l left it on and got on with some gardening. When l remembered to go back and check it was lunchtime, and it was still going and showing an input of 3000MaH. I pulled the plug. !!!!! Testing the V with a meter shows 5.4V. The battery was not hot just very luke warm. Can this be correct to have put in so much and will it have damaged the battery? My charger is a FUSION Elysium LX 60B Pro, and has not given any past problems.

Andy, Sorry l meant to ask re rudder......is that 90 each way or 45 each way. Geoff.

Hi Andy, What a star.!!! Many thanks for the info. A copy of the instructions would be great. If you want you can send them direct to my e-mail [email protected] Underscore between f and 54. Also thanks Biggles...yes l would input expo. Best regards, Geoff.  

Hi, l have just acquired a competely built Extra-Wot (only flown once),currently on 35mz..I do not have a Tx cristal to match,so cannot check the control throws. I am going to convert to 2.4 so will need to reset everything. Does anyone have this plane and if so could you tell me the advised control throw set-up for Ail,Rud,Elev. Many thanks, Geoff.

Clive, Can you confirm this will assist me in setting up on my JR DS9. I only ask since l see the article was written in 2005 and l only bought the DS 9 last year. I can follow most of the manual but some parts are quite confusing. Many thanks,  Geoff.

Pete, Many thanks for the quick response. Will google and have a look. As a matter of interest l am in Spain. My main glider at the moment is the Multiplex Alpha 27.The temp at the moment is Circa 30 degrees....I was flying yesterday and as to thermals it was a question of how high..The only "problem" was getting out and back down...OH l wonder why l retired to Spain. Best regards, Geoff.

I have seen the new adverts in RCM&E (August) for this model.. I am interested in the elecric Deluxe version, with air brakes and wheel. Has anyone purchased this model and if so can you please let me have your comments. I cannot find any review,so far. Many thanks.   Geoff.

Terry, Sorry for the delay in a response. Many thanks for the info. Left wing panels now joined after some carefull sanding. Your reminder to fix the dihedral was very well timed.....it was not in my mind at the time.!!!!. Anyway all looking good and straight., with dihedrals set.I intend to now build the basic panels for the right wing and do the sheeting and web's later. I seem to remember that is when l should build in the wash- out on the outer panels. If l get stuck l will be in touch. Many thanks again. Geoff.

Hi Guys, Just finished inner and outer wing pannels of left wing. I have glued the 2 ply joiners onto the inner wing panel and now trying to align outer wing panel before gluing in place. what a job.!!!! This must be the most difficult join l have attempted. My other builds have been a straight join,,,,,,,,but here the inner leading edge is in one plane the main spars in another and the traling edge in yet a third plane. Easy for TN to say once satisfied with fit ( l guess he just has a tad more experience) then glue together. All credit to you guys who have put it together...but for us lesser builders ....any tips as to how to join the panels together so every thing fits in a straight line.????....or is it just lots of patience and trial and error in sanding.!!! Any assistance greatly received. Geoff.

Hi Terry, Sorry to be a pain....but with 4mm sq under the bottom spar and the same at the trailing edge it just looks wrong.....it seems too low at the back. I have tried to draw some horizontal lines on the plan accros the rib sections and if l am reading it right the rear of the rib seems to be about 2/3 mm high from the bottom of the central spar. I have tried a piece of 6mm sq at the rear to rest the trailing edge of the rib on and to my eye, this looks about right.. I may be completely wrong but would value your further view before l start and glue. Many thanks,   geoff.

Hi Terry, Many thanks for the prompt response. Yes l have some spare sq. strip and will now start the wing following your excellent tip. Always easy when you know the answer.!! Best regards,  Geoff.

Hi all, First congratulations Mario on your super build and maiden flight........just sorry l cannot watch it on U-Tube....l only have a land line so not possible to watch a video. Been busy with other matters for the past few weeks but now back to some building and starting on the wings.....and met my first question.!! I have packed up the bottom spar for the inner wing and trial fitted W1-W9. It is easy to move each rib 1/2 mm from flat on the board. Previous builds have been flat bottom sections so not a problem...but l can see this is not flat bottom. I can also see the the hieght increases from W1 to W9 at the leading edge from the building board. Do l keep the bottom trailing edge of W1-W9 all at the same level....... ie. packed up by say 2mm all along the bottom trailing edge ...or should this also increase in height from W1-W9. Any tips guys so l can get the rib angles set properly. Many thanks. Geoff.

Mario, Just been down to my Mail Box and found a very nice U/C parcel waiting for me. It looks great and with all the holes predrilled !!!!  what more could be expected. You are very kind and it is very much appreciated. I cannot think of many other hobbies with such goodwill to fellow modelers. Thank you very much indeed.   MT... I also covered the stab. and fin first. I offered the stab upto the bottom of the fus.and then drew a line either side of the stab. and then covered upto the line. Just another way to avoid having to cut away later. The stab. was then glued in place using 30 min epoxy (with the fus in the upside down position.) It is rock solid and is not going anywhere.!! I then cut out the small block which fits just in front of F11 and covered the top only before gluing into position.I will leave the rudder off at present (although also covered) and only fit later. I have also covered the elev.but this will need to be fitted now so l can shape the rear fus block before gluing in place. As to the fin i trial fitted it and then with a straight edge marked a line from the top of the fus to the top of F11 and then covered to 2 mill below that line. The rear side sheeting will then be glued in place. Before gluing the fin in place l fixed a small piece of covering over the top of the fus ...about 1" either side of the fin and about 1" forward of the leading edge of the fin. That way the fin sits perfectly onto a small covered area. I have no doubt the fus. covering will need to be applied in sections, since with all those curves l doubt it will be possible to do in 2 halves. I am using black Solatex for the covering and so far you are hard pushed to see any joins....just use a new blade for cutting for a really sharp edge.

Peter. How do you intend cutting the thread.? You can buy a set of bolt-on-stub axle shafts from any good model shop. I have a set which l bought on line from Sussex Models.(l use them a lot for my gear and find them very helpfull and they will post to Spain for me.) Mine are from Great Planes and are 1-1/4 x 5/32" They are a perfect fit for those 3 1/2 " wheels.....cost was 3.99 sterling. It will certainly save you a lot of timeand effort....just an option for you to consider. Geoff.

Thanks Mario and Terry, I was trying to do it as a single piece but can see the logic of your approach and much easier to do in several sections....as always someone can always put you on the right track.!!