Capt Kremen

Hi Martin,   Proposed at National and my club BMFA representive level ... deafening silence ....   Sorry don't wish to be branded a BMFA basher but the reason the silent majority don't speak out is they don't like committees and the points of order MrChairman stuff that goes tediously with it. Most have enough of it already in the day job.   And ...Yes been there .. got the Committee T-Shirt on several occasions!!!

RW,   Fareham Models and Raceway Lake Works Cranleigh Road Fareham PO16 9DR   01329 280308

Thanks Ultymate but still looking for detail on the F-Mode. Can see it mentioned on P16 for helis. I don't know whether the reassignment of Rudder dual rate to t'other toggle is 'global' or just for the current one model! I just enjoy flying not computer programming!!!!    

Hear, Hear KC,   The 'silent majority' of BMFA members are so for one purpose, the insurance that prudently and wisely we have should anything happen whilst pursuing our interests F/F, C/L, R/C, rockets etc. etc. (Can't remember the last time I saw anyone fly C/L or F/F in my area!)   Why don't they offer the option to opt out of receiving the glossy mag that could save a few bob surely? (It could be online for those folk that want to view the photos of the great and glorious receiving their awards in Black Ties at 'the dinner' - what a waste of space in the last issue! To all but a few and those involved not needed or wanted).   Central flying site - again only of interest to 'locals' and the (relative) minorities of our hobby that pursue pots 'n trophies.

Re-studied the DX8 user manual (BTW not the best for detail instruction); P15 only describes assigning Gear, Aux1, Aux 2 and left/right trimmers to different toggles/switches. As you say Ultymate, sets like my Multiplex EVO you can assign anything to anything!

DX6i NiMH conversion P78-79 Why did Alex Whittaker cut off the perfectly good as supplied 'Eneloop' pack connecter? Instead, why not solder in a female connector so that swapping out the pack is easy e.g. to allow external cycle conditioning or use another pack if you are having a couple of days flying away from base, (saves the bother of taking a charger and the polarity issue too!). Also, if a cell shows signs of going duff, it's no problem to quickly fit a new replacement pack and keep flying!  

Unless I'm missing something .... On a MODE 2 set-up DX8 Tx (Throttle/RUDDER functions on left stick). Why is the Rudder Dual rate switch above the right-hand stick? Is it OK to extend the existing leads, (as supplied - very short and soldered to the circuit board and toggle switches), so that the switch function can be swapped over i.e. Rudder D/R above the left (Rudder) stick and 'F Mode' on the right-hand side?

The admission/gate organisation at Yeovilton (unless to be greatly improved this year) leaves much to be desired. Two 'turnstiles' and a queues of folk shivering in the British weather waiting to pay! Many of my modelling chums have decided to boycott it as a protest. Surly, jobsworth gate folk too!!!

After many bottles used and fingers stuck together over the years, now everytime I use Super Glue (any brand, or viscosity) I get 'flu/streaming running nose' like symptoms for days afterwards. Is the oderless variety any better for not creating this bothersome condition? [Oh and yes I do apply the glue in a well ventilated area, (often outside if weather permits), and try not to directly inhale the fumes etc. but it's not totally practical when sticking say two Multiplex Elapor foam fuselages together - other glues don't stck it very well and are not recommended in any case]. I do have and use the other varieties aliphatic, pva, epoxy etc. but some sticking requirements are still best done with good old cyano. Any useful, practical advice welcomed.

Hi David,   I have used both the NiMH and dedicated Spektrum LiPo Tx packs in my DX8. (The 4000mAh capacity LiPo pack will probably last for weeks before needing a charge as Alan says, 2.4 gear consumes comparatively little current during use).   Before using the NiMH pack, I removed it from the Tx and cycle-conditioned it using one the discharge/charge programmes on my Multiplex LN6015 charger. Over the years I have found this to be best practice with all NiMH cells whether used for modelling or other uses. NiMH cells can be unreliable if left between use and then attempts made to charge. They can give false readings or appear full i.e. auto-switch chargers off when they are in fact only partially charged. (The Spektrum NiMH though may be of the Sanyo Eneloop type i.e. retain their charge more reliably between use and not suffer a high self discharge)   The Lipo pack seems to have solved all these issues but I still keep the NiMH topped up as a reserve in case I fly out the charge in a days outing.   Whilst I'm very satisfied with the DX8, its 'fancy' charging facility with the 'Blue' light is not a feature that I rely on. I prefer to remove all batteries be they NiMH and especially LiPO!!! from Tx or airframes to safely charge under controlled & monitored conditions. If something does go wrong then, (hopefully), it's only a battery that goes phutt or puffs it's electrons away in a white cloud of smoke!   Enjoy Santa's pressie....

Don't know if ever imported by a dealer but why bother when you can order direct. My set came through very quickly. (A week from order to delivery). Easily fitted, working a treat

As the original post by 'Romeo Whisky' says, following all the valid advice, in the strictest sense, is less than practical in 'average' household situations i.e. House/Bungalow with Shed/Garage/Loft etc.My 'two pennerth' of input - I use recognised, reputable make chargers (Schulze & Multiplex in my case). Use shielded, quality connectors (C3 type) that are difficult to misconnect/short due to the shape of the housings and arrangement of plugs. (Note I did not say impossible, where there's a dumb end user there's usually a way!). I do have a LiPo charging bag but what no one has illustrated to me yet, is how do you monitor/observe what's going on inside it when you place the pack in it to charge. Plus the leads either exit the fold-over cover at the top or you place the Charger/Balancer unit in the bag too! I doubt that's a safe practice! I therefore use a 'Pyrex' type dish with the LiPo sack over the top as a fire retardant 'blanket'. I store my LiPos in one of the German Army's finest surplus ammunition boxes. These, for anyone who has never handled one, have very firm positive overlocks at each end. (A bit like the old Corona pop bottles did - that's giving my vintage away!) I place the LiPos in plastic food containers to further insulate and avoid one battery inadvertantly shorting with another. Yes, they can still go off and self-catch fire but the lid of the ammo box should not (easily) blow off. Whilst I, like others, do not watch paint drying or my batteries charging, I do not go far away or leave the premises. If I do, I dissconnect and put all packs in the ammo box.The ammo box is kept in a moderate environment i.e out of direct sunlight streaming through the window and not in the freezing cold of the garage (in winter/night). I use the charger balancer features and charge moderately i.e. not at highest rates. Periodically noting the charger readouts to see how the packs are progressing.When packs are nearing full charge, I do not leave the room until either the charge completes or I physically terminate and disconnect then secure in the Ammo box. Touch wood no problems to date.  

Trevor, Started on mine but with little 'spare' time to fathom out and correct the shortcomings of the kit as it comes out of the box, I moved to more accurate and quick(er) build projects. I have an e-flite motor earmarked for my 'Mini-Super' running a reasonable size prop at lower rpm. I will 'get-round-toowit' sometime as I know it will be a great little plane.  Ben Buckle kits do not seem to have moved with the times alas but if you like a challenge!

To add ... Good air show but the road traffic and marshalling/policing of it in and around Farnborough was appauling. The usual 3 lanes into one with 'PC49 Yellow Jacket amusing himself as Mr Angry BMW meet Mrs Chelsea Tractor! It took over an hour to get out of the Queens Parade car park, absolute chaos. Be warned. Tip if your taking t'other half, to avoid them joining the (very) lengthy queues for the 'Portapotties' out in the field, go to the Halls 1-4 and use the much nicer less congested facilities there. Air-condition and cooler too!

A cheap but very, very effective set-up is:   HET Typhoon 15/13 £25-00   + suitable 25-30A Speed Controller Swings a 11 x 4.7 prop (or similar Graupner CAM Prop folder 3.17mm shaft size) 3cell LiPo 2500mAh pack, you'll be up for a minimum of 30mins without thermals! Super climb out to 'speck-in-the-sky' height too.   http://www.giantcod.co.uk/typhoon-outrunner-1513-p-405108.html   'Electric Aeroplane Company' used to sell these motors too but perhaps HET are no longer in general circulation/use(?).   Some surgery needed on the fuselage nose to allow fitment of a front former, easy enough though. My 'Easy Glider' is now 5 years old and still flying (well) on this motor. Wings a bit 'sloppy' and loose fitting on the 'stronger' carbon rod spar I substituted for the kit supplied one.   Full up ailerons don't have a great deal of effect as spoilerons on mine, it still goes up in strong lift with them deployed!!!

Ambroid = A brand of 'traditional' (smell-it-now) US Balsa Cement Le Pages or Gloy perhaps are brands folk remember in the UK(?) I grew up in South Wales where Bud Morgan ran the local model 'goodies' emporium and he had own label (a brown wrapper!) jumbo tube of balsa stick-it-together stuff.

Just returned from Messe Karlsruhe with the latest 'traditional' kit from Aeronaut, the 'Oldtimer XXL 59', it's a beauty! CNC cutting of carefully graded quality wood (balsa & ply) plus fittings. How much better would our joyous KeilKraft models of modelling 'yooff' days been had they been so made. Now where's my 'Ambroid' and modelling pins ....