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Posts posted by Wookman
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V tail will work as rudder elevator with dihedral and no ailerons.
Either tail configuration will work with a flatter aileron wing.
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Anybody out there in model land got a spare one.
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Nice work Leccy.
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So the local commercial drone operator buys everybody in their local model club a RID. I like it.
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Does somebody have a link to the doc you have to fill in?
5.4 Feedback can be provided by 7th September 2023, using the feedback form on
the CAA websiteBut only if you can find it.
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Very much agree with you about the radio adaptation being better, cunjure your own images.
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Stan at Phoenix Model Products would be worth adding to your list of otential suppliers. https://www.phoenixmp.com/acatalog/Servos.html
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2 hours ago, leccyflyer said:
Hope this is okay, with the bleeping -but quality delivery from Harrison Ford there. 😄
It is an old gag but worthy of repetition for Harrison's exquisite delivery.
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52 minutes ago, leccyflyer said:
There's at least one glider with a four servo wing that is sitting there waiting for that to happen.
Have a look at Mike Shelim's website at rcsoar.com.
He has some excellent templates ready written to download onto your Otx transmitter that will take all the grief out of seting up your 4 servo wing glider.
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Shiny things are always better.
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4 minutes ago, martin collins 1 said:
Available agin
Might be nice with an Irvine 53.
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The one I regret passing on was my Cresent Bullet. OS FSR 40 and Skyleader Radio, both of which I still have. When I took the gear out of it I discovered one of the servos only worked intermitantly. It was on the thottle and must have been relying the vibration to keep going!
Another was the Kamco Kadet. Same engine and radio. My instructor managed to fold the wing on it (not his fault, he was the unlucky one on the sticks when it went). I heard later that everybody thought that was the last they would see of me and the Kadet and were most surprised when I turned up the following week with a new scratch made foam veneer aileron wing, the fuselage having survived the impact unscathed.
The little PMP Wingbat with an SC25 on the front was good fun until I dumb thumbed it into a forest of burnt gorse in Jersey and shredded it. Flying it was like having a tiger by the tail. Stan never kitted this model because it was so hairy to fly. The roll rate was blink and miss it fast.
He did an EPP version called CrazyBat for a while which was a little bit bigger. His prototype has an SC25 and was a sweet thing to fly. Mine had an SC32 which tigered it up a bit. It was good fun with the Jen 37 too, no faster but it would go vertically upwards almost as fast as it would go verically downwards.
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30 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:
Why not, in the 60's Wiggins the builders 'persuaded' wood screws to hang doors in new houses with a hammer.😄
Which is exactly why I didn’t say “put a screw in with a hammer”
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On 20/07/2023 at 22:23, paul devereux said:
but was he cheating by having a model custom-built to do these things?
No. It is having the right tool for the job. Would you put a nail in with a screwdriver?
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The JR lead than I have sourced is mono. So hopefully we are good to go.
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Sorted. Thanks for the input.
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5 minutes ago, Wookman said:
Another thing to remember is that good glider flyers are always good power flyers but the reverse is often not the case.
Because they understand that the wing keeps the plane up, not the whirly thing on the front or the wiggly bit on the back.
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30 minutes ago, Frank Skilbeck said:
Looked at our flying log for the last 12 months, typically in winter say Now through March we flew about 60% of the time of summer.
BTW if you want stick time and have any slopes learnt a slope soarer is a great way of getting stick time, maybe one of Stan Yeos kits http://www.phoenixmp.com/acatalog/Gliders.html
Very much agree with the last statement. A slope soarer will get you a lot of stick time and a PMP model is well worth consideration. Not ARTF but a straight forward build with Stan being a huge advocate of KISS. In day's of yore I would go power flying on a Sunday morning 10 'til 1 and then sloping 2 'til 5. I normally managed at least 3 times more stick time gliding. Another thing to remember is that good glider flyers are always good power flyers but the reverse is often not the case.
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I built a receiver or two back in the day, but when the little Hitec 5 channel came out at a price that was less than the cost of the components and hardware for the homebuilds that was the end of that.
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Is it the same as the JR lead?
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I will, but it it will be later in the weekend or very early next week.
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If you want to use a separate power source rather than the bec in the ESC you simply disconnect the positive wire where the ESC plugs into the rx.
You are then free to plug a normal rx battery into the rx in the same way you would for an ic model.
It would also be possible to power the rx and primary flight controls from the bec in ESC or a separate battery and then use a another battery to power the high drain items like retracts.
Basically the signal and the negative from the retract goes o the rx and the positive and the negative goes to the separate supply. Easy enough to create a Y lead from two extension leads to satisfy that requirement.
Another possibillity might be to power the retracts via the bec and the main drive motor from the lipo and use a separate supply for rx and primary flight controls.
As to which batteries to use, I like 2000 eneloops. If you need better current delivery you will have the go to a sub C Nimh or another Li battery of some sort. Careful what voltage the retracts are rated for if you are going Li. You might need a separate bec!
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LBT V2
in FrSky
Posted
Line of least resistance is to load FrSky V1 firmware onto the rx.
Personally I have gone V2 on my Tarani (is that the plural of Taranis?).
I have then gone for Mike's uni firmware on all my rxs.