Jump to content

Mike Bell

Members
  • Posts

    553
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mike Bell

  1. Cheers Steve, at least I'm not the only one. I did wonder about fitting a flat blade peg like on the elf, that one slips easier off the fingers. Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 12/06/2014 05:28:19
  2. Just put together a Libelle dlg and I'm generally pretty pleased with it. Compared to my Elf though I'm finding it much more difficult to launch. The peg seems a bit awkwardly placed and I find that the model ends up going up in knife edge which doesn't make for max height launches. Does any one out there have any tips on chucking technique for this model? Mike Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 12/06/2014 05:27:38
  3. The motor Martin uses is indeed home made so details are a bit sketchy. Prop size is 14x7 but we have never done any trials on other prop sizes, it works so haven't felt compelled to tinker. Other important consideration is that Martin uses 5s batteries. This is definitely overkill but he is of the never can have too much power school of thought, especially for competition. On 5s and 14x7 it can produce over 900 watts which is way more than what is needed to fly the plane. As with any Fun Fly type of plane, extended fast flight is not recommended as flutter is always a possibility and this isn't what they are built for. Full power is only ever used for climbing events and then only for 20 seconds at a time. I would suggest a good high performance set up would be an 800 watt motor on 4s batteries. The 4-max PPPO-3548-790 motor would be worth a look at. I have bought one to replace my Irvine 39 for next years Nats but haven't had an opportunity to try it in anger yet. Feels like it has plenty of thrust on the ground though. Mike (Martins Dad)
  4. Hi Martin, I'll give Martin Bell a nudge (I'm hid Dad) and ask him to comment on the ribs. I suspect he means that the shape is flat enough to be laid direclty on a flat board without packing. Mike
  5. Thanks all. Seems it isn't just me having problems. I might just have a bit experiment with different etch primers and if this isn't successful I might just go the composite body route. Stickers and legending isn't a problem as I have a vinyl cutter, I just don't want a plain white background. If I get any success I'll let you know. Cheers, Mike
  6. Can anyone out there suggest a suitable primer to help paint adhere to the plastic of a Raptor body shell? I have painted mine a couple of times but the adhesion is poor and the finish is easily damaged. I was wondering if anyone had tried the Multiplex Multi-primer. I know this is for Elapor etc but maybe it would be effective on other plastics too? Any suggestions would be welcome.
  7. Cheers Robin, might give that a go if the answer doesn't pop up here.
  8. Hi all, does anyone know what the thread is on the backplate of the above engine? I need to make a replacement for mine. Mike
  9. Dan, I have had experience of inconsistent low end running with a DA50 and it turned out to be fluff accumulation in the filter inside the carb. Worth taking the cover plate off the carb and having a look. There should be a domed wire mesh filter that you can take out and clean.
  10. I reckon a Zenoah 20cc would be pretty good. Very light for a petrol. Mike
  11. Hi Gonzo Your link to the Mills repair article was spot on and spookily timely. I have just acquired a Boddo Mills .75 with a bent crank shaft and was resigned to turning up a complete new item. Just replacing the bent bit with a stud should be much easier. I'll definitely give this a go. In my case the crank case was also split along one of the mounting lugs so I'm going to have a go with the alu-weld brazing process before I do anything else. Cheers, Mike
  12. Richard Have a look at your "My messages" I have sent you the email details. Mike
  13. Hi Richard It wasn't me at Old Warden as I wasn't there, but pleased you and some colleagues are considering Fun Fly. I can't really help you with leccy set ups as I have only ever used ic, but I'll pm you the e mail address of one of the Fun Fly CD's who may be able to help. One thing I do know is that Class 2 was restricted to 3cells, Class 1 anything you like. Give me a day or so and I'll put you in touch with someone who should be able to help. Mike
  14. Thanks Allan, even enticing just a couple of newbies would be satisfying.
  15. In part 1 I tried to convince that having a go a fun fly at the Nats is a fun and rewarding experience. In part 2 I have prepared a short guide on how to fly the main tasks - click on the link .Fun fly hints and tips What's in the link is what I've learned and observed in 11 years or so of being involved, but of course there are many ways to skin the proverbial so it is presented as a guide only. Some of the graphics are a bit simplistic, but hopefully you can see what they are illustrating. You really should also check out the rules on the BMFA web site, find them under Resources. Even if you don't intend to compete you might enjoy trying some of the tasks out at your own field You never know, you may even be inspired to take things further. Anyway, feel free to post any questions or comments
  16. Just trying something [url=http://www.fileden.com/files/2012/6/1/3311226/A%20GUIDE%20TO%20FLYING%20FUN%20FLY.pdf]A GUIDE TO FL YING FUN FLY.pdf[/url
  17. Thanks, that's what I thought. Looks like plan B then.
  18. Hi I would like to make a pdf document available to be read on a thread. I don't have anywhere I can put it on line to link to (I don't think). Any advice appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...