AWM

Excellent - thank you both! The install has went ok, the diagram is pretty much the same as my set up. How did you get your schraeder valve attached to the circuit?? At the t piece I have standard air hose with an open end, how do you attach the schraeder valve?   Many thanks.. Alan

Hi ALL...   Once again, any help will be gratefully appreciated. I am building a Harvard- 26cc petrol size. The retracts are air operated. The system is basically the piping to a valve with 3 inlets / outlets and a one way valve to 'charge' the air tank. The one way valve connector is a standard nipple to press a pipe onto. How do you charge the tank? All I have is an air hose going to the one way valve and the open end to connect a pump to. Cheers.. Alan

23 for me please.

Hi ALL...   Once again, any help will be gratefully appreciated. I am building a Harvard- 26cc petrol size. The retracts are air operated. The system is basically the piping to a valve with 3 inlets / outlets and a one way valve to 'charge' the air tank. The one way valve connector is a standard nipple to press a pipe onto. How do you charge the tank? All I have is an air hose going to the one way valve and the open end to connect a pump to. Cheers.. Alan

I am lucky enough to have a decent sized area at my work where I can practice my flying. The area in question is about 2 football pitches in size. It is a bit small for a my AT-6 or 40 size low winger, and the weather is seldom calm enough for the little ERC Micro Stik.   Can anyone suggest a decent buy in the box leccy plane, something like a warbird that with fall somewhere between the 2 examples above? The biggest limitation is the manouvering area is tarmac, so the plane must have undercarriage. Does anyone have any recommendations? I thought about a parkzone spitfire, but it doesn't have wheels and I want something with similar capabilites to a 40 size low winger. But that size and style would be ideal, just a bit more aerobatic.   Cheers.. Alan

Thanks for the words of wisdom everyone!! )

Hi ALL..   I am looking for a bit of advice, as per the thread title. I am building a Black Horse AT-6 / Texan. The model span is 82" and 120 2 stroke or 26cc petrol is the recomended power.   I have got a SC180 four stroke for it. I am toying with the idea of selling the four stroke and putting a 26cc petrol engine in it. Can I ask about people's experiences of petrol power v 4 stroke. Is this a good idea, or should I stick with the SC180?   Cheers... Al

Hello ALL...   Does anyone on the Forum fly / or know anyone who flies heli's in the Ayrshire / South Glasgow area? I have mailed Waterfoot Heli's a couple of times, but to no avail. I am hoping to make contact with a heli flyer at a local club.   Many thanks as usual.   Alan

I agree... defo scary, as a newbie to leccy flying I have just ordered a Lipo safe bag.  

Great video!!  Good find! 

Hi again everyone.. the model is finished and have successfully powered everything up. I have a watt meter now to plug in and read the results when the throttle is opened. Very pleased with it all.. and thanks for everyone's words of wisdom.

Do you know what...  what is the opposite of left breast?  Thats what I feel like right now!!  I took the servo horn off and turned it round to the other side!  Soz for wasting your time!  lol   Alan

Hiya.. Proper flaps.   Looking at the set up, it looks as though one of the servo's has to be reversed some how??  

Hello again...   Setting up the flaps on the plane with the T6EX. The flaps are operated on channel 6 by a switch. There is a dedicated flap servo in each wing, joined via a Y lead into channel 6.   The problem is that when the switch is on the off position 1 flap is deployed and when the switch is on the other flap deploys and the one that was deployed returns to the neutral position. Any ideas how to fix this? hmmm.   Thanks all!!

Amazing!! When I saw the first pics of the damage - I thought no chance!! Having followed how you rebuilt this I am well impressed! Well done!! I suspect there may be a few messages coming your way from people who crash their ARTF's over the coming season!!    

Solder joints - very pleased with today's efforts. My first time soldering, they are solid!! I have put the ESC's in the nacelles. Even extending the wires for the battery - they are still relatively short. 

Once again Timbo - Thankyou!  You suggested previously that I use a separate Rx battery. So, that is what I have done. I have the Lipo for the power train and a normal Rx battery in the battery port of the receiver. So, when I connect the receiver plugs from the ESC's into a Y lead I can terminate the red wire in the Y lead, so that there is no red at all going to the receiver.

Ah I see... I have one 3s 5000mah LIpo and 9x6 props. What kind of wire did you use to lengthen the esc wires?

This may seem like basic.. basic stuff. But I have the 2 motors mounted in the wings of my plane. I have 2 ESC's.  I sort of know how it all goes together.  The motors connect to each of the ESC's. The ESC's are joined and connected the to the Lipo. red / red and black / black. Then the Rx plugs on the ESC's go into a 'Y' lead and into the receiver. The Rx plugs on the ESC's are Futaba type. As there are 2 ESC's, am I right in thinking I remove the red wire from one of the plugs? That is question one.  Q2... What is the best way to connect it all together? The motors and esc's have 4 or 5 mm of wire coated in solder at the ends, but no connectors. There are however small brass connectors with the motors and esc's, btut they don't appear to be much good. Should I simply solder the ends together and use insulating tape to seal the connections? Can I use connector blocks, the plastic ones with brass screws in them, used in mains electricity mostly. Or something else?  Q3.. If I need to extend the wires, what kind of wire should I use? I will need to lengthen the wires from the ESC's to connect to the lipo. And finally, can I get what I need in Maplins..  as opposed to going to a model shop?    Thanks in advance once again... I am sure sooner rather  than later I will be able to contribute something rather than taking!  lol.        

That looks really good!!  Mine is totally standard, for now. I have just finished building it and I am pondering the best way to install the power train. I have the motors on and deciding where to put the esc's. I was going to put them in behind the motors in the nacelles. I see you use 2 batt's. I have one, and a separate Rx battery - as many have suggested.

I have installed a 4.8V battery for the Rx.. Put it way up in the nose to help balance it. Looking forward to getting flying!

Excellent Shaun and thankyou..  defo look forward to that - compare notes!  I bought this fairly cheap off eBay- as a new and unopened kit - my first dabble into leccy flight. I agree it is quite cartoon like... but it did look like great fun! I see some of the yanks have these models repainted and badged etc to look more authentic. Some nice ones on their sites.

Thanks for the advice...  they are 'furry' mylar hinges. I CA'd them. It is just a fairly light electric model.

Thats exactly what I am going to do, I see the 35Mhz kit sells for pennies, so there is no great incentive to sell it. So I will keep it for the sim, and as a spare should somethng silly happen with the 2.4Ghz. But thanks for the advice, I will be using the 2.4 on the models for now.   Sorry Ken!  lol 

Hi James...   I am Alan. Like yourself I am just working my way through a couple of ARTF's. In the past I have built ARTF's and always found the quality to be fine. Maybe you have a Friday afternoon one? Definately keep on at them. I would contact them about the mount - the SC is a popular engine and if others have found this problem and reported it they may have a mount ready as a replacement or recommend a mount that will fit in with the pre-drilled firewall. I am sure it will work out fine.