Erfolg
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Posts posted by Erfolg
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Thanks for the enlightenment. It is useful to know the why. The answers do indicate that their is real benefit for the helical shape of the propeller. Also CAM designed blades may have an advantage.
Again thanks for the info.
Regards
Erfolg -
Yep Shaun
I use a Futaba 6EXA, and use the auxiallary channel with channel 1 to drive two servos as Flaperons on my electric glider. Works well.
Regards
Erfolg -
I have been thinking a little about popeller pitch recently and my Pico Z. Yes, the pain was considerable.
I was thinking that the Pico Z had a rotor blade that seem to change its angle of pitch in a similar way to my aircraft propellers.
But most other helicopters seem to have a constant pitch angle along the whole length of the blade.
Which made me wonder, why does the anle not change on these helicopter blades. As the diameter of the roter is generally very large ie 12 or more inches. The relative speed at the root, is significantly different to the tip.
So why is it so important for my humble electric model to have blades designed with aid of a computer, i.e. to get the right pitch at the appropriate station? Yet, seemingly, not to matter for the helicopters of this world, model or full size?
Regards Dummkopf
Erfolg -
It is my intention to use a 3s1p 1200 (li-po)20c constant rating. This size battery provides the correct CG, without ballast.
My intention is to run close to, but less than maximum rating for the motor (about10%).During the initial climb out, probably 10-20 seconds, I then throttle back to about half stick travel. The initial burst is to get me clear of the ground safely (make sure I have airspeed and height), the second phase is to gain altitude in a steady but lively manner (probably 30s). After that I glide until I need more height.Motor runs are typically in the 30s region with a three minute or more of thermalling.
Regards
Erfolg -
I now use Graupner and Tornado spinners. The Tornado spinner is far cheaper than the German systems, appears to be good for the job. For blades I use Aeronaut and Graupner.
I have used blades from the far east, but after two catastrophic failures, do not use them on anything beyond 80W. They are very cheap though, spinner/hubs seem to work OK.
Tornado I get from Overlander
Graupner/Aeronaut from Gliders
Both next day delivery (std. post)
Regards Erfolg
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Hi
Most of the contributers recognise the need to get the geometry right.
Quite a lot of consideration has gone into ensuring that the output arm of the servo is at 90 degrees to the line of action of the Push Rod. It has also been noted that the push rod (line of action) needs to be as near to being parallel (in line) with the control surface as possible.
One possability does not seem to have been addressed, that is the geometry of the control arm connected to the control surface. The hole for the push rod clevis should be in line with hindge line (at 90 degrees). Neither forward or rearward of this point, if unequal movement is to be avoided. Taking advantage of this aspect (of setting up) is how many of us achieved favourable aileron movement in the past.
Regards
Erfolg -
I am seeking a 3 view drawing or sketch of the Hutter 211.
I know some basic dimension of the wing i.e. area, span, but not the root or tip chords.
I also now that it was essentialy a Heinkel 219 re-winged, but I am not clear if the A,B, or C variant was used.
Can anyone help?
Regards
Erfolg -
I use a Futaba T6EXAP transmitter.
From the instructions I understand that you should select -VE (negative) exponential to provide a small amount of servo travel about the mid position, when moving the stick quite a lot.
Is my understanding correct?
If it is, typically what value shoud be selected, 10, 20, 30% etc.
Regards
Erfolg -
FMS and Reality Craft simulators, have enabled me to re enter RC flying with the minimum of fuss.
Both provide a range of aircraft (simulations) which vary greatly in their characteristics (which can be user modified within parameters, with Reality Craft) and Reality craft allows differing weather conditions.
How real are they?
I get the impression that this does vary with your processor and the resolution of your monitor.
I believe both have saved me both time and money, with these products. You can always get better (however you define better), but is it necessary?
Regards
Erfolg -
A) 100% electric, 6 models with gear i.e. flying.
Intend converting 3m algebra + Chriss Foss Multipahse + 48" ME109T to electric as soon as possible!
b) 5-10% on power as flying 2 off 2m Sagittas as electric and a 48 inch super light weight (all regularly).
c) The advent of affordable Brushless, ranging from Bell Type (100w) to 700w, in conjunction with lightweight (affordable) Li-po batteries and very QUITE power trains, could quite well kill i.c. models.
What to do with ED racers, PAW,Cox, DC,AM, Enya, Profi, OS's, Merco's in the garage?
I have 6 power models in the garage that will probably never fly again. To heavy and strong in the wrong places for electric.
d) Emphasis needs to change as the reader base interest changes. I do believe that we need to be kept up to date with trends and products. -
I have a 2025/4243 in-runner (conventional) brushless motor with gearbox (approx 4:1 I understand). I have been told that these are sold under the Himax, Himark and Tornado brands amongst others).
I am installing it in a 2m glider. Has anyone any experience as to what propeller diameter (folder) and pitch are suitable to stay below the 175W and 20amp limits.
Can anyone help?
Regards
Erfolg
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Has anyone experience of using Eppler 182 on a plank, for the purpose of gliding. I intended a span of approx. 2m. with a chord of 300mm. I have printed out a copy of 8.8% E182 from the Profi programme/site. It seems about the same thickness of the Windfreak section, although the Windfreak appears to have the maximum camber near the leading edge. Also the camber appears to be less as the leading edge is lower, the reflex also is considerably longer about 40% of chord. I would use the windfreak section except I have only a small scale drawing to work from (I believe this section at least works, it is based on something called the Aquilla so I have been told).
I have used Eppler 186 previously with very poor results 100inch span with a 14 inch chord, Foam cut wing. Towing was poor, in that not much height could be gained. The glide slope was also very poor.
I intended to build an electric glider, using a 200W motor and li-po battery. I therefore want a good section. By good, it needs to have the ability to glide, good penetration, without a sudden unpredictable stall.
Can anyone help?
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I have followed this thread with passing interest. Most people have adhered to the recommended list as I did.
Upon reflection I do think at a personal level. There are a number of constraints which influence my decisions.
A) The model needs to be reasonably big, i.e. 1.5-2m span. So that I can see it.
b) Capable of slow flight without being a paper bag in the breeze. Missiles have little intrest for me.
c)Electric powered, preferably using bell motors (these are cheap and powerful at this time). I have found that Brushless motors and Li-poly batteries give incredible performance at an affordable cost
d) Easy to build, without investing a lot of time in construction.
A airplane that seems to be capable of fulfilling these criteria is the seldom modelled ( think) "Heinkel 219 Uhu"
1) It was a slab sided box type fuselage. With simple cockpit shape.
2) Ample wing area ratio when compared to body size.
3) Could fly well as a twin electric.
The only downside for me is the trailing edge profile in plan. Could this be simplified? Also the dihedral twin fins could make the elevator linkage tricky.
I think this is a model that I would like to have a go at.
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I have read all the comments with great intrest.
All though the airport is close to Culloden it does seem a great pity if it is not possible to fly models. In the area near Manchester airport, in the Sale and Altricham district, I know of four clubs, flying RC models. The nearest is about 2 miles away (although not in the flight path).
My daughter used to live in Edinburgh (by the links), althougth nice it is not a patch on the scenery around the Murray Firth or Loch Ness. Although we have not made it further east than about 10 miles and a similar distance along the coast. There seems tremendous potential for slope soaring. Or are the hills generally facing the wrong way (if that is possible). -
I think I have seen the BAe 146.I did not notice that it was a model. Obviously very observant.
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I am amazed, that with such an amount of un spoilt country side of incredible beauty for the UK. There is not a lot more model flying activity. Or perhaps there are constraints I do not yet recognise
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My top 3 are
1. Stuka
2. DH Hornet
3. Beechcraft Bonanza
1&3 should fly quite well, 2 could well be tricky to build and fly. For me all tree need to be electric (brushless and Li-Po). -
My daughter has moved to Inverness (Culloden)and has just made me a Granddad. I guess I will now be visiting far more frequently.
Does any one now of any, clubs, groups or individuals who fly model aircraft in the are?
I fly mainly electric and gliders. Although I do have a lot of smelly motors and gunk covered airframes.
Regards
ED Engines
in IC Engines
Posted
I started with an ED Hunter. I still have two ED Racers, brillant engines. Never use them though.
I am intersested in the project, so please keep the site posted on progress.
It appears to be another British company with promise that stumbled and fell with no trace.
Regards
Erfolg