Erfolg

You are all mad, thank God I am still sane. I have not changed my mind (because I am still sane), the method realy needs careful observation. Also repeating over a number of times (increases level of mental stability), to be sure that your observations are consistant, or are the same ( I was sane this morning, when i woke up, who was I?). In my own opinion a model with a foreword C of G continues to do what it was doing (stability, I calls it) until disturbed by an  elevator input, It then rapidly adjusts to the new trajectory, until the energy is dispated or becomes to great, it then adopts a new stable condition until......... Essentially I find the method requires understanding and experience. Ruler of the Universe, Saneist of ther insane. Erfolg 

Part of our problem is our Island Mentality, the channel can be as an effective barrier as the Atlantic Ocean. I buy building materials, the cost of which can be extortionate. Particularly if you purchase from two of the national builders merchants. However it is possible to get 50% discount by negotiation for a large order (very large customers can get the unbelievable 80%). Joe public gets zilch. The very large margins do provide excellent proffits, yet encourage the setting up of aggresive pricing local companies, and in some instances foreign competition. The moral is if you want to avoid the the situation where many of the suppliers are foreign (Lafarge, Mannersmann etc. in the building game), get your prices down provide the best service. Get the Government and local authorities to recognise that  not all types of shops can afford top rates and rents.  As our island Barriers are starting to collapse. We need the UK model trade not just for materials, but to support our model publications (advertising revenue, products to review etc.). A lot could be at stake. Erfolg

I have an E-sky receiver (from Robotbirds). I also use Tango (Weston), various Micron and a number of Futaba receivers. They all work well, none are obviously better than the others. as far as i am aware they are all full range (Park receivers are generally not that small that they are worth the range compromise). I always keep the receiver and aerial well away from the speed controller and motor wiring (after the servos). I do get glitches, or is it me? Regards Erfolg

I have sympathy with Mikes general view, yet i know that we live in era where only those with imagination, providing the best service, at the keenest prices will survive. In general Timbo, is describing the world as it is. Mail order is becoming the norm. To survive in the UK you need to be as good as BRC, Robotbirds etc. As for foreign purchases, Hong Kong, Singapore all have excellent traders. If it were not for the Chancellor and HM Customs, many of our Big Mail Order companies would disapear (including model shops). Having minimised their overheads many UK mail order traders still charge a premium for the products up for sale. I feel that they will need to mimic USA traders and pass on some of the savings ( as BRC), in discounted prices (keen pricing realy), or the Far Eastern and USA traders will get a bigger share of the UK market. Erfolg  

Are stages 1-3 done:  in a single session orwhen first peice is green orafter each peice has gone off?I thought cutting carbon (Kevlar) is realy difficult once cured and getting a reasonable edge also difficult. Regards Erfolg 

Is the carbon fibre around the body, a single peice? If so how do you handle the body during the lay up and support it whilst curing. Of course I am intrigued how you cut it for hatches etc. An Intrested Erfolg 

I have used among others, JP (Perkins) folding propeller assemblies. Perkins have said that they were intended for 400 type motors, transfering up to 80 watts via the prop. I have used them on 120W motors (both carbon and white plastic), where the blades fail, shedding one and doing incredible damage. I have noticed that Multiplex amongst others appear to use similar hub assemblies with Graupner/aeronauht blades in some their electric kits. These appear to be capable of handling +150Watts, without failure. Has any one any experience of using Perkins hubs with proper carbon baldes. If they have what has been your experience. As I am considering using one of my Perkins hubs in this way. Regards Erfolg

The multiplex scissor brakes, are operated by parallelogram that lifts the blade at 90 degrees to the airstream, requiring very little force to open or close. The letterbox type brake, uses a torque rod or similar  device to keep closed. Mine generated considerable torgue closed, far more when opened. In addition due to the way they opened, some force was required to overcome the boundary layers etc. acting on the wing (can only be guessed at). The amont of force the servo needed to generate to open, and keep the blade raised was considerable. Did not really mater when used as a thermal glider.  To give some idea of the glider it is 120 inch span. Regards Erfolg 

Woodheys Models on Washway road has closed, that was my local. It is surprising how much better my Performance tools, 6ltr. 1.5 hp compressor is than, the puny diaphragm pump. Main issue is the pressure setting of 20 psi (for the airbrushes), appears to be a little high for my Badger spray gun (cannot be bothered to reset for it).  Erfolg

I thought your woven roving is Carbon Fibre? Erfolg

When you say glass, are we talking "Windows" or "Resin"? Erfolg

Timbo At our Friday night club night, one of the members was talking about epoxying a model. I suggested water soluble varnish, saying I had used the Wickes stuff. Another member said, "Oh I use B&Q water soluble varnish" (sic). It appears he had used it for some time, and recond it was as good as the Trade Product sold through the model trade. There was me thinking I had been adventurist in using Wickes, and was taking a risk. I guess there are many alternatives which are effective, being used by modellers, but they do not tell anyone.  So the wheel gets re-invented. The trouble with the trade stuff via the model trade is: It is far more expensive than the DIY productI have to send for it, and wait.Erfolg

I have seen this techique used before, where the cloth was laid over a sacrificial core. From what I have seen: Chopped matt provides a hideous finishWoven Roving was better (but not a finished, finish)Although woven roving was better, there was still the need for a lot of cutting right back. In the case of ther woven roving the weave was cut through in places, thus locally reducing strength. A thouroughly dirty, time consuming business. Have you some bagging technigue (or other) that over comes the issues I have outlined? Still Interested Erfolg  

I have jsut completed the assembly of the wing, tailplane body. As a temporary measure the wing has been assembled as a one peice, as per original. Although abot 70mm has been lost in the centre section. If the model is sucesseful, (and that depends on your interpretation of sucess), i will make it into a 3 peice to aid transportation , when visting the far north of the UK. I have know got my motor for the model, a Tower Pro Bm 2409-12 max watts 200, 1570kv from BRC. On a 8*6 propeller I would have potentially preffered a Overlander Thumper at about £19-20, the smallest one is supposed to turn a 9*6 and greater at about 200w.My problem there was no dimensional info or performance info available. So it is now time to make a motor mount. Erfolg

Jetsome I am not trying to start a heated discusion and do agree with everything written in principle. I was trying to suggest that the dive test, does require a little experience ( and observation) regarding what it means. I to start my models at about 33% mean chord. Although I have found that 30% is safer, particulary if the tail area/moment arm is small. I do calculate the position from a number of formula, the Gordon Whitehead in his Scale Models book is safe for power (there are a number of these formulas all essentially the same), transposed to give either distance or % chord. Apologies Erfolg 

Jetsome For your method to work, you do need to be in the viable CG range. I see it as a fine tuning method. I have found that the method sounds easy, but for the less than good, it is tricky to interpret. If to far forward the dive often continues with a slight pull out. But a little back pressure will have the model climbing steeply. Then a little down has the effect of going into a dive again. Stable in that it wants to keep doing what it is doing at that time. I know from control theory that a under damped system behaves as I have described. But with flight I do not think we are realy looking at this type of model. Or are we? Erfolg

Eric I remember and shopped at Roland Scotts, in the lay-by of the East Lancs (superhighway). Also remember, vaguely his shop on Shudehill, Manchester. Mum found it, I used to ask her to get me balsa cement form the Model Shop in Brazenose Street, during her lunch hour. It was quite a trek for her across central Manchester, Shudehill a little more convenient. What mums will do do for their kids. It seems impossible that there is no longer a model shop (to my knowledge) of the quality of RS, MS, East Cheshire Models (Ron Donahue?) or the Ashton Under Lyne shops in Greater Manchester. Erfolg

The adhesion of the cloth to balsa/ply seems the same with varnish as epoxy resin using my plier test. The problem for us guys, Joe public, is that the tin tells us little about the content. From my understanding, varnish is/was shellac or some other stuff (a resin) dissolved into an Organic Compound (solvent often turps). Many of the water bourne varnishes are actually Acrylics but as they seem reluctant to tell you, I can only guess. As a specifier at one period of my industrial life, I found that often the same formula  would appear under different Brand names. I have been suprised how many people are prepared to die in a ditch in defence (support) of their prefered system (product) against an inferior product. Yet in some instances I knew that it was the same product under a different brand. We all find it hard to be truly objective, particularly when our knowledge base is limited.  So as to the water based finishes that are starting to attract attention, I do not realy know. These products tend to comprise a Binder, filler and water. It is the binder that is the Acylic. The filler provides the body/feel, how it goes on, film thickness. The water is the solvent.  The trouble is that the model trade has always had a fair degree of hype, I do not know the (real) difference from one of these water based products to another. Yet there are those who do, do they provide evidence for there position? I just know that the Wickes stuff is OK and cheap. If I get my hands on some of these other products, I will try to do a comparison for my own benefit. As for the inks/acylics, absolutly any art shop will stock some. The inks I find are easier to handle, the pigment is often attached as a compound within the ink (although chemicaly can be quite complex). Acylics often seperate out, but because of the fillers, form a substrate on the surface, where as inks penetrate further into the body of the material. Artists will tell you that the surface needs preparation. Inks are normally used on high quality papers (china clay), canvasses should be primed to provide a base. Even artist do not always prime their canvasses when using acrylics (just makes economic sence), some will use emulsion paint (cheapskates) others special canvass primers (spendthrifts). For us I do not believe any preparation is necessary beyond a smooth finish. As for brands, is the difference realy that great? I think not, any reputable name FW, Rotring etc. If not branded do not touch. Inks can form a varnish, acylics a coating in your airbrush if not cleaned thoughly. I use soap and water (although I do have Rotring cleaner), and dismantle every time, needle, cap and clean chamber with wifes cotton buds. Erfolg 

I have just covered  a model using glass gloth (silk hankerchief type weight) and Wickes interior varnish (water based stuff). I decided to use this system after reading and heard of Poly C, another water based varnish. Unfortuantly it is targeted at the floor trade and not DIY section of the community and is available in large drums only. There is a model outlet somewhere retailing small quantities. I have previously finished two models using FW Acylic Artists Ink and also Pelikan Ink (no longer available, although many believed it was the best ink). This I have applied directly to the wood (plywood and balsa). The amount used is very little, the effect is very much dependant on imagination and a small amount of skill (using mainly airbrush, although brushes and pens have been used). If you then glass/varnish over the top the finish is totally fuel resistant. Bring the final coat to that of a car with top glaze applied and the result is outstanding and durable. If you wonder at my attraction to varnish, it is speed, freedom from mess, outstanding finish for little effort. I fly electric so no little of the effect of Nitro on the varnish, although claiming to be heat and alchohol (glow fuel is of that group) resistant. Ohh 500ml is only £7. Experiment Erfolg Regards Erfolg 

The glass and varnish covering has gone well. It has all been done in a day. One fixing coat, plus twwo filling coats. Possibly should be lightly cut back to provide a key for a paint finish. I had not realised it but there appears to be an additional advantage to this method, the underlying colours remain true (pretty much so). Whereas epoxy can appear to darken some what (when applied over colour). This trueness could be advantageous, particulaly with ply type finishes, where the vibrancey of some colours is lost. I have found that coloured inks (drawing/airbrush) are particularly good. There is no measurable weight gain (not without laboratory scales). The colours are really vibrant and complex effects are possible without to much difficulty. It appears at first sight that this meathod could provide a clear coat type finish. I must experiment some more, on a new model. I think that some of the ready to fly models have shown how to make light strong models, using ply. It reminds me that the Sean Bannister Algebra 1 was a ply box, as essentialy was the Sagittas (using 1/8"), yet the undouted strength and competion sucess, never transfered into the mainstream. Erfolg  

My thoughts on the show reports and content Probably to many of the similar type of UK reports.There is a need to cover, Nats, A big general show, LMA show, one major slope event, one significant Scale Event. What is not needed is a blow by blow account of how individuals flew their models, particularly if i am to be told that the air was poor and it was spitting slightly.I enjoy descriptions of the Dortmund trade show etc, if it is different to the UK scene.I cannot stand the round by round description of some slope or flat field glider event s(and me a glider guider).The old news items from clubs, in the old Aeomodeller, left me cold.For many of us electric flyers, smaller models are quite attractive. With the arrival of lower cost big motors and battries, my intrest in larger models has proven to be fleeting. It is not as easy to find a place to fly convientaly (even with low noise). Small models which were not realy practicle as IC planes, certainly are now. I would like to see a continued focus on this area (Indoor, park and upto 50" area). Regards Erfolg 

I have now finished the shaping of the fusl. No effort to shape, the real drag is waiting for the glues to set. It does not appear to need any filling prior to covering. It is my intention to use glass cloth with water based varnish from Wickes. I have undertaken a few comparative trials with Z-Epoxy. The results have not been easy to compare with precision. But using observation and non numeric testing I found   Both seem to attach the cloth with equal firmnessMore coats of varnish are required to build up a similar finish(3 against 2)Varnish is more flexible than resinBoth finish to roughly equal smoothnessWeight of finish appaered the same using digital kitchen scalesVarnish finishing is a lot faster and is very convienant, wash brushes in water, varnish dries in approx 2 hrs. Cost of varnish I would guess is a lot lower than Z-Epoxy (£7 per 500ml).  Now to get cloth, brushes, scissors and varnish out. Erfolg

Tom If you do not measure, how do you know what has happened, due to charging? I many respects ignorance is bliss. Yet, for me, I become anxious, not knowing. When I know what has happened, I then begin to worry are the values within acceptable boundaries. The problem having an engineering background, is that nothing is one hundred percent accurate (made, calculated or measured). Engineers live in a world of inexactitudes, where making sence of what you observe is the challenge. Many engineers will say the more they know, they more they realise the that they do not know and finding a viable balance is the real challenge. A nuerotic Erfolg 

Bah, bought my B&Q aircompessor for £25 in the sale, last year! Far better than the diaphragm compessor which I payed £50 from Roy Levers outfit (powermax ?), all those years ago when £50, bought you a box of balsa for a non descript trainer. Then the model shop thought it had done you a favour in taking your money. Ahhhhhhhhhhh, the good old days. Which you well with your compessor Regards Erfolg

Deja vu I remember now, we have that very same charger, the "JP Li-Po 2000 Professional. I wonder if it is the presence of the "Poly Pro Lithium Polymer Battery Balancer Guard" that may be fooling the JP product,into shutting of to early. I am interested in how you have had issues with your charger, I have heard others be critical of JP chargers. But no one comes out and says they consistently undercharge. It is reassuring if you do not set it properly it does nothing, but beep. One thing is for certain neither supplier would concede that their products were less than perfect. May be the other product was not compatible. Given that my collection of bits and pieces cost retail about £40, it should not be to long before a charger, balancer, with a digital readout, maybe with data transfer capability comes out for £25-30. Which brands of the "set and forget chargers" do you think are good. Regards Erfolg