Denis Watkins
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Posts posted by Denis Watkins
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Do you have the transmitter manual Ned that shows calibration?
As there is a whole load of joystick calibration to do, and may help you get it working.
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1 hour ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said:
How would this protect against a typical on-line transaction where you have to supply an unencrypted cvv code? The 3 pieces of info are typically provided to multiple suppliers and organisations so it only requires a single crooked employee to leak your details.
You can't protect, as you point out, against this Martin. Those details are all that is needed to complete a transaction.
online purchases, done electronically, do not provide the shop with your cvv, so is safer than speaking down the phone
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12 hours ago, Fly Boy 3 said:
Nice one Den, batt. has 2 connections, so red in middle black at bottom ? Cheers
Correct, Blacks for Batt and servos at the bottom
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I ran out of time to edit
But the AR620 receiver does plug into the Reflex V2 which is a gyro, and will stabilise the model
As mentioned above
The AR620 is not a stabiliser
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The Reflex V2 is a stabiliser .
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On Leccy, I tried helping out my market trader brother in law, buying 10 such boxes, that would suit us, 4 foot by 18 inch square, double walled card.
We had to buy 10, or 100 boxes. 10 cost us £180. Shipping by courier one box containing goods was £15. We had to ask customers £33 postage. It was a nightmare.
A sport plane with separate wing halves would probably fit a 4 foot box, but adding £33 carriage can't go down well.
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31 minutes ago, extra slim said:
Denis, yours is inverted right?
Yes, inverted
I fly the 26, and the Saito 30 and 40, inverted
And like you, the tank has to be rock bottom, On floor of the model
And with each, plumbing has to be spot on, and I fly all three on 5% nitro
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1 hour ago, extra slim said:
Failing that, can anyone recommend an inverted 26 FS or 30 FS setup.. The OS, and Saito are both airbleed, with SC and ASP twin needle. I am tempted with a saito 30, but would be miffed if I experienced the same having shelled out.. Last resort would be to re-butcher it into sidewinder..
I fly successfully on your set up Extra Slim, although on a 9 x 5 prop.
it has to be fuel flow, as you summise, but you have to have half the idle screw hole covered by screwing in.
and you won't like this, although all new, you have a fuel pipe pressure leak, or a tank pressure leak, or the clunk sticking at the back of the tank.
The 4oz tank has a very short clunk pipe, than can wander high in the tank, or get stuck.
go over each joint and every inch of the tank under water with soap bubbles
blow every pipe, blocking the others in turn. You have a pressure leak I feel.
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13 hours ago, Richard Acland said:
I wasnt aware of it. Fortunately it wasnt for much money. I am not sure where the guy lived.
Richard, although it was a small amount of money, this scammer has your paypal and email details, so change your password on both to something more substantial.
Once they get your details, they commence hammering away at passwords to get into accounts.
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Count the magnets in the motor
Here from RCgroups
For a brushless motor, the number of poles (magnets) determines the optimum timing. Less timing advance is more efficient and higher timing advance is more powerful but uses more juice, within the range that a particular motor can use.
E-flite Pro ESC timing recommendations:
Low Timing Advance
Timing Degrees – 5 & 10
Motor Poles – 2 to 4
Expected Performance – Good balance of power and efficiency
Motor Poles – 6 or more
Expected Performance – Best efficiency and run time (lowest power)
Standard Timing Advance
Timing Degrees – 15 & 20
Motor Poles – 6 to 12
Expected Performance – Good balance of power and efficiency
Motor Poles – 14 or more
Expected Performance – Best efficiency and run time (lowest power)
High Timing Advance
Timing Degrees – 25
Motor Poles – 12
Expected Performance – Highest power, less efficiency
Motor Poles – 14 or more
Expected Performance – Good balance of power and efficiency- 1
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Up to around 1943, both here and the USA, small garages with workshops with tooling, dabbled with small petrol engines for model aeroplanes, resulting in many design one-offs, as production ceased until the end of the war, and motors became available again.
Point being, one off design petrol engines were quite common.
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Right Allan, the 3 flicks in 3 seconds, is not rushed, nice and steady as switches bounce a 3 seconds is steady
One- and - Two- and Three.....steady
Or in the workshop
Use the button on the S8R to do the same thing,, steady one and two and three
Use the button on the reciever
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There was an optional Brass Priming Nozzle Richard, screwed in place to allow priming, obviously never caught on.
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No part of my flying or flying equipment, fuel or choice of model have escaped being denounced on the forum, but I do understand that opinions are interesting.
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16 minutes ago, J D 8 said:
Trying to renew my registration but getting nowhere with CAA site, just does not recognize me.
Sign in to your BMFA just go account IS
CAA membership is in there
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The Pop Up has gone
But a small blue sticker remains with choices
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Try this email Peter
JAMARA - Manuals
Please note that the available instructions are always the latest version. If you need an older version of a particular manual, send us a request with the item number, serial number and date of purchase to [email protected]
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Timing
As suggested above
Alter the timing
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The antenna is fine in a foamy, and should be laid out straight and not folded.
A range test should show up any problem
The scoop looks good, just don't hang around after switch on, and fly
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22 hours ago, Bruce Collinson said:
Funny how often the wing tube is about right for c of g. Thanks for going into your loft!
Bruce.
Good spot Bruce, one that you will never forget
The wing tube is most commonly fitted at the ( strongest ) thickest part of the wing profile which is aerodynamically too, the best place for the C of G
Precedent t180 plans !
in All Things Model Flying
Posted
There you go Chris