Denis Watkins
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Posts posted by Denis Watkins
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To keep your options open John, as you may have IC equipment to hand, look up the ARTF, Seagull Jumper, and the Boomerang that can be prepared in a day or two.
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1st don't, Don't try to run the motor with the ignition lead disconnected from the plug, and no disrespect, but it is quite common for users to try to start with the motor kill switch on. If you petrol, in a chamber, compress it in a spark atmosphere, it will ignite. If it does not start,, there could be no spark, no compression, too much fuel, as ignition is 9000 to 1 fuel air mix, or no fuel
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Hi Steve, LOGIC electronics, as in our equipment etc, states that if you can SAY it logically, then you can do it. You do of course, just need enough channels, and assigned mix switches. Complex mixes of this kind were achieved before computer radio using ( logic gates ) Y leads and clever planning. Make a ( logic diagram ) "family tree like " diagram of your need, then go through the map with your TX
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Tether the model, or take the props off. Slowly, click by click, move the throttle trim up/on. The motors should get closer to the same start. Twin motors will exhibit slight differences, due to friction, age, and lubrication. Just get them near as you can on the trim without beeping. Keep in touch
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Think this through in its simplest form Tom, Flying an FPV Quadcopter, you can actually slow to the hover, and get your bearings and your breath back. Your trainer will not hover, and cruises approx 30 - 40mph, and gets to 20 mph on the landing circuit. You will see a very unfamiliar view of the landscape, travelling slowly past at good altitude, to a high speed ground effect as you come into land, and you will not see yourself, or the Pitts, or others, unti it is too late, you may even get one second to react and swerve, but what will you swerve into? You cannot go ahead comfortably, without replanning.
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Good one buddy, the clue you gave correctly was the constant bleep, which in ESC language means that your throttle is on/high. You had your throttle off, yet the processor told you (beep) that it was on, so all that was left was a high/on throttle trim. We fixed it mate
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Quick test, switch on the TX with the throttle down, then switch on the RX, then push the throttle trim all the way down/off, does the beep stop?
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General notes on LEDs lads. Being a very small diode, common LEDs are mostly rated at 20mah. As a rule of thumb, the protective resistor should be approx 75 ohms per volt, thus 1k for 12 v, and 680R for 9v, and 470R for 6v. However, again as a rule of thumb, if you are experimenting with less common microchips (ICs) (integrated circuits), then almost no protection is needed, maybe 10R, as the chip outputs are commonly 10 - 20 manh, similar to the LED. You can of course amplify this very small chip output very simply.
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Just facts Lab, that the ailerons main work is done in the outer quarter of the wing, IN GENERAL, any aileron is better than none, an irregular shaped aileron is better than non, but as you realise, in ideal conditions, it is better that surfaces meet the air uniformly, and not with tapered ailerons, But a model being a smaller, less powerful flying machine than a full size, a tapered aileron will work.
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By definition and title, Mode 1 is one, 1st…Mode 2 is Two,, is second…enuf said lol
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Seagull Models always referred to this device as a "pushrod connector", and the advantage of the design is obvious when setting up control surface positions to servo arm output. BUT, as you all remark, they can produce a castostrophic failure. On my setups, I Use good quality heat shrink, about 10mm long, before and after the connector, and after the throwsvar set, and Allen screw tightened, I slide up the heatshrink snug from both sides of the connector, and shrink the heatshrink as a safety stop. My neck is now on the chopping block yet again LOL
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Hi Wes, when I start instructing a newbie, I like to start on page one, but the minimag appears at about page five. It is no trainer. The DX6i is our chosen buddy TX, as it easily binds to other easily obtainable ready to fly models, and is logical in the programing. Stick with your idea to fly, and join a club ASAP, to help you decided your next step
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I have great respect for Andy's comment that flyers should knownthe rules, my respect fueled by the best, most sensibly written " Guidance notes for Instructors" ever written. All that is needed is that mature folk are made aware by their Instructors that they are sympathetic to age, and the fear induced with age of remembering facts, and being challenged by the same, with having to recall them. I estimate about half of us loose confidence with age, but most of us respond well to encouragement.
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The boys are quite clear Nev, these Hi Ted arms were designed for low load application to the throttle barrel. They are excellent to getting that difficult to make, final adjustment from tick over to full throttle. As Bob says, the computer radio has surpassed this need now. Fit your servos with a fixed arm, fixed linkage, that cannot come adrift, and use your TX to make final adjustments. We all know the law, if it can work loose, it will work loose. Ailerons are far too important for any risk, as is any control link. Best regards
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1\4 birch ply is 6mm Chris
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Laminate up the brace from what you have Chris. It will get even stronger
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Sorry Kooka, DO take the battery out. In the olden days I used to service TX and RX and TV, and you will not believe that we used plastic precision tools, to workbon them, not to avoid electric shock, but to avoid imparting our own electricity into the newly designed integrated circuit components. Removing the battery will also reduce the length of the circuitry. These days, components are minute and easily damaged by stray votage , let alone a battery discharge. The risks are minimal that you would damage the set, but battery removal multiples thev safety factor in your favour
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Hi Geof, All boys on this thread, have advised you well on both counts, the 35mhz and the wooden wing joiner. The aluminium tube insert, is a recent addition to the Boomerang stable, the wooden joiner was the preferred method for years and years. In experienced hands, I would bet that all your kit could easily be made airworthy, so crack on with it. All my new motors this last decade were run-in, in the air, on a trusty, stable platform, wooden wing joined Boomerang ARTF, then refitted, when run-in, to the mother ship. The Boomerang is a well trusted airframe.
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Oh, Steve moderator, I just saw your valid comment, and expect you applied the supersonic formula. I have witnessed a noise like no other coming from a GT60 in the air and it is not a critism at all, but an observation of the resulting shreaded props. Having no scientific evidence at all, I expect it could have been weak props or poor motor instaltion resulting in vibration as this guy is unapproachable and does not share easily.
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Included in the heading is the word " chat" I hope it is all bravado, just fit the correct 46 2stroke, and save both your heartache and your money. This will all end in tears, or a bin bag. LOL
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BE assured David
The lower kv is desireble
the more useful torque is produced in the lower kv motors
as opposed to screaming high revs
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Hi Matt, You have been advised to get down to your club, and unfotunately, it is wintertime, and your patience is running out. Non of us wants you chasing your dreams going down the expensive aquisistion of unsuitable gear road.
Don't buy anything else until you get down to your club,
Engine manufacturers recommend their preference for nitro and oil. There are standard fuels that you can buy, but you must see at £20 per gallon, you can soon aquire a choice limiting amount of expensive fuel.
An ARTF, model, Almost Ready To Fly trainer, a Boomerang in this case, will cost you £69, and has all your bits in the box. Often, nothing else to buy, but is built to an acceptable quality, and fly's well, but
A good KIT has an enormous amount of satisfaction in the build inside the box, but seldom has the bits to complete the flying model. You have the choice then to get all the bits at a quality of your own choice, which is no bad thing. The whole kit then is higher cost, but you chose the quality and build yourself, usually higher quality
I hope this is fair comment
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The 10 x 6 is perfect for the 35AX Ian
Or obviouly an 11 x 5 if you have clearance
I have a thing about the larger disc of air being moved at the front
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I put 1 inch landing longer gear on to my bullet, running the correct 11 x 6, as the 10 x 6 on an SC 46 was inadequate in the air, and did over rev rather than move along nicely.
I keep getting logged out
in Report A Problem
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Clear your cashe Andy, and retype your log in freshi